1600 clutch - confused

[denny-o]

I was pulling a 12 foot Oliver disc harrow (36 discs) and I noted smoke coming from the bell housing so I stopped... I had pulled the disc in 2nd, then 3rd, and was pulling in 4th when I saw it... This was just a test run to determine which gear I should use and I had only pulled a few hundred feet in 4th - I liked the way it churns the dirt in 4th but the engine was really grunting... My assumption is that the clutch was slipping and it overheated... Looking through the inspection plate on the right side of the bell housing shows a greasy mess covering everything - somebody went ape with greasing the throwout bearing over the years, I guess...
I let it cool down for a couple of minutes and then drove it back to the barn without noticing any problem... I will say I have felt that the clutch was extra light under foot compared to every other tractor I have driven and I had wondered if the springs were weak...

In anticipation of having to change out the clutch and pressure plate (parts on order)I have read the archives on "changing clutch" - mostly 1650 and bigger under discussion, with one time on 1550-1600... I found every opinion known to man...
And now I am thoroughly confused...

1. For a 1600 - do I have to pull the engine? (yes, I have a manual)
2. Or can I pull the long PTO drive shaft from the rear, which we did while overhauling the PTO drive, then take the bell housing off with the engine in place?
Inquiring minds and all that...

And part of the reason for asking is that I have a Farmall MD (in nice shape) that had the bearing break and it knocked off spring towers on the pressure plate and everyone on that forum said the tractor had to be split to change out the clutch and pressure plate... Well Sir, we found that "we" were able to remove everything without splitting the tractor... A clutch/plate/bearing/pilot kit is in shipment and I can see no reason that we cannot reassemble it the same way we took it apart... Hoping that the feat can be translated to the Oliver 1600...

denny-o in Michigan where it stopped raining and is now 90 something practically every day...

 

[Larry from MD]

Well if you DO NOT have a 2speed(hydro power)you can change the clutch without pulling the engine or splitting the tractor.With a 2 speed you should pull the engine and it together.

 

[rrlund]

I'd be a little cautious about thinking somebody greased the throw out bearing enough to make that slip. Take a good look at the rear main seal while you're in there.
Yep,sure would have been nice to have some of these hot sunny days back in mid June around here so we could have gotten some hay put up before it all layed down.

 

[denny-o]

My fault for not being specific... It is a direct drive, no hydro...

 

[wmthrower]

Although my 550 had a broken grease tube when I bought it (hence a new PTO clutch), an oil leak from a bad rear seal is more common.

 

[300winchester]

Denny
Larry from MD has it right. You have to pull the rear pto cover off then remove some snap rings, then pull the 6 or 7 ft shaft out the back, if you have a 2 speed hydra power you have to pull the engine, if not you can just remove bell housing and do the work needed. I have tons of pics, I just did a major engine overhaul and new clutch, pressure plate , you name it. send me your email, I will be glad to help with where I can.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Mike a noble thought indeed, but he has a 1600. It has a dry PTO clutch, 3 bolts and a good wrecking bar is all it takes, once the cover is off, no snap rings. You should have just removed one snap ring.

 

[300winchster]

10-4 John
I only know my 1650 forward and back
sounds like his job sounds easier than mine.
Thanks

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have had many a farmall apart and I dont see how you can replace the clutch on that md without splitting the tractor. I am looking forward to hearing how that works out for you.