1650 Input shaft help!!!

[Matt Compton]

He guys, went to put a clutch in my 1650 and found more wrong then I bargined for, I could shave with the splines on the the input shaft, Cropping season is fast approching and I have more things to get ready then I can handle, I need the tractor, and I dont want to install a new shaft unless I have to, there is plenty of good spine behind the shaft where the sprocket runs, im sure im not the only one that has tried to repair this without renewing the shaft.

I see there is a longer version of the sprocket for a non hydra-drive, could one machine this one to fit on the good sprocket?

Suggestions would be greatly appricated!!

</a>

</a>

Longer sprocket used on a non hydra drive model, Should be able to cut it to fit?

</a>
Chain coupler for hydra-drive

</a>

 

[larry from md.]

I used to have a tractor with that on it,i think it will go without any cutting.It will get loose after a while.

 

[larry from md.]

Fergot one thing,that sproket goes back to the slot where the snapring goes. You need the snapring if no hydro-power it holds the hole shaft so it can't slip out of the engine.If useing the long sproket with a 2 or3 speed you can leave the snapring off.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Matt, you can get a longer sprocket that goes on the shaft farther. I keep an extra one on hand. You need to call Tim at 330-832-9792.

 

[Anonymous-0]

We just made on that was longer for a 2-70 white. We took a good used sprocket and had it turned down and rounded the ends. We welded them together and it turned out great. Make sure your sprockets are lined up when you put the engine back in. If not, you need to adjust the height of the hydrapower. It doesn't appear to have a 5/8 ready bolt in under the hydrapower from what I can see. You should drill and tap the frame for a 5/8 ready bolt to support the hyrapower to make your couplers align. This may be what accelerated wear on the shaft.