1680 Combine

[Anonymous-0]

I have what appears to be a rear main engine seal leaking on a 1680 International combine. In looking at it, I am guessing that it would be easier to pull the engine than all the hydraulics and drive systems off the back of the engine. Any short cuts or helpful hints would be greatly appreciated.

 

[pullinfever]

yeah u got it pull the hoods off pull the shroud loose radiator off fuel lines and unbolt it have a way to jerk that engine out i wish i was there anyway its the only way have fun

 

[Brownie450]

Don't know about a 1680, but we've done the seals on our 1440 & 1460 without too much trouble. We took off the hydro pump & lines & then the slanted right-angle gear drive. We just used the skidloader to pull individual units & replace them. Get a tool from IH to re-install the seal. Be careful when getting the old speedi-sleeve off the crank. We used a 1/4 inch cold chisel to cut through it. If you had a heavy boom to lift the engine, that might not be a bad way, but you'd have to support the angle gearcase & hydro pump. Maybe a 1680 is set up differently--don't know. Good luck with it.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I've got the same problem with my 1680. Does yours have the Cummins(6TA-830) engine or the IH(466). Talking with my Case/IH mechanic, he says it is easiest to pull the engine and do it off the combine since we will probably need to replace the oil pan gasket as well. Mine is the Cummins.

 

[Tom Bateson]

Thanks to all for the information. This one has the Cummins engine and I was hoping to be able to move the engine just enough to pull the flywheel and rear main as my A-Frame Gantry is just wide enough for the combine. Not much room left between the combine and the A-Frame. Rolling it out the back is a possibility just did not want all that weight swinging that high. As to supporting the Hydraulic componets during removal of the engine I was considering one of those screw type pole jacks often used in basements. Good idea or bad?

 

[Anonymous-0]

We did the rear oil seal in our 1660 this summer. Cunnins (Serial # and After) We left the main drive Box in place and lifted the engine instead. We remove the fan and shrowed and lifted the engine turning it side ways without unhooking the air conditioning line so as not to lose any off the R12 gas. We also remove the radiator and had it boiled clean and presure tested. There was a little seppage from the pan gasket so we changed that as well. New belts and a new tensioner. Them but it back together.
The machine stayed clean all fall and now uses maybe a quart of oil every secound day. Better than last fall when we leaking 2 Quarts a day finishing the last 150 acres of corn. Also a leak can get very meassy looking on a combine, and could lead to a fire under the right conditions.

One of the dealers mechanics stopped after work with the tool they have to but the seal in place. He said the proplem is common with the first Cummins seals put on these engines, the replacemeng is alot better seal.

At the dealership if thr PTO drive box is remove for repairs they change the engine rear seal if its the original even if its not leaking.

Good luck

 

[Anonymous-0]

On mine I took every thing off the back of the engine in one piece.Put some blocks under the pan to hold up the back of engine.Make sure you put a new pilot bushing in the end of the crank shaft.If your out put shaft is worn some I had a machine shop make a new pilot bushing to fit the shaft.