1750 Hydraulic Problem

[Ted in minn]

My 1750 hydraulic system is acting up again. I have a loader hooked to the regular hydraulic ports. When I move the outside lever up or down, this lever is connected to the boom, the curl raises to the up position. Only after the curl is all the way up, will the boom start to raise.

When I try to lower the curl by moving the inside lever, it slowly goes down to about the half way point, but it acts as if it is pushing against an immovable object. The curl raies fine but will not hold in the up position. If I disconnect the hoses, the curl will stay in the up position as I raise the boom up and down.

My guess is one of those servo valves is stuck part way open or something. Any suggestions of where to start?

I do have an aftermarket shop manual, so please get me to the right place to start.

Thanks for any and all advice.

 

[Shep VA]

Ok, first thing, hydraulics are complex, and little things can make a difference, so I will try to help but you may have to try some things to get it to work.

Do you have the hoses hooked up correctly so that when you pull back the loader goes up and the bucket tilts in. If so, the next step is to loosen the restrictor valves on the back under the seat. These valves, one on each side, to the back, slow the flow of oil when the cylinders are going down so if you have something heavy hooked to the tractor, like a haybine, it does not SLAM to the ground when you retract the cylinder. They need to be mostly open for loader operation, that is why it seems like it is pushing going down.

I am assuming both cylinders are double acting, meaning you have 4 hoses connected to the back?? I would suggest moving the boom to the inside remote and the tilt to the outside, you are getting pressure back on the left remote somehow. That system flows from left remote to right remote to the three point and if you put power on the right remote it will pressurize the left, but that normally only occurs on single acting cylinders.

I once hooked up the discbine wrong. I had the single acting cylinder that raises the discbine in the left remote and the swing for the hitch, a double acting cylinder in the right side. Everytime I would swing the discbine one direction the machine would raise, you have to have the highes pressure double acting cylinders to the left, and the weaker or single acting cylinders to the right.

I am guessing you have some leakage between the O rings on the remotes and it is getting by to the tilt cylinders. You may end up taking the top off the remote system and replacing the O rings to fix that.

The best thing to do with a loader is to get it off the remotes and put in a loader valve and run the system from the power beyond. Remotes are not desigened to run loaders and do not work well with loaders, as you are finding.

Good luck and let us know if you have more questions.

 

[Vernon in Ks]

I agree with Shep. Go to the power beyond. It will cost a few hundred to do so, but the first words out of your mouth will be "why didn't I do this years ago"

 

[Anonymous-0]

How much do you use the loader? If you go power beyond, make sure you purchase a valve with a float spool. I think you have a bad coupler.

 

[Ted in minn]

I thought about a bad coupler and changed them. No fix resulted. Also, when I change hoses around, the problem moves to the boom. How about the sagging of the bucket?

I thought switching to power beyond too

 

[Ted in minn]

Thank you for all of your advice.

This loader has been on this tractor for about 10 years so I know it is hooked up right. In fact, I changed the hoses to the current set up based on advice on this forum a few years ago. I don't use the loader great deal. Never all dayloading manaure or anything. The most would be unloading a load of round bales about twice a year.

The problem continues even with other remotes as I noted in my other reply.

I tried adjusting the relief valve, the one near the heal of your right foot, it will not turn in very far, about 1/2 inch of thread remains exposed. I know in the past I have turn it in further. I removed it entirely and cleaned up the threads so I know that is not the problem.

Power beyond is sounding good to me.

 

[Larry from MD]

That bolt releases the oil to the 3point and helps useing a single acting cylinder.If your 3 point works then its in far enough.

 

[Shep VA]

That bolt at your heel is for releasing the power on the three point, do not over tighten it, there is a ball and a spring behind it, it is supposed to have some thread sticking out.

I was talking about the restrictor valves that are up higher and further back than that bolt. THere is one on each side that help control the speed of the remotes. You wil probably need to look at a parts breakdown to see what i am talking about.

Sounds like you have tried the easy stuff. Because the power is washing between the remotes and it sounds like it is letting the cylinders drift in the neutral position I would suspect you have internal problems in the remotes. Either the O rings in the top of the remotes have gotten hard or have broken, or there are problems in the valves.

You will likely need to tear into the remote system to find the problems, it may be as simple as some O rings or it could be wear or trash on the interlocks or the valves. Hard to tell until you open it up. Even more reason to put a loader valve on the tractor in my opinion.

Good luck

 

[Ted in minn]

Okay, I know which adjustment things you are refering to. I have never touched them.

When you refer to the remotes, are you talking about the control valves on the tractor itself or the cylinders themselves? My thinking is it must be in the tractor itself. To me it seems as if there is a valve remaining partially open allowing oil from one side to push into the other side. That same open valve could be allowing the drift in the curl.

Basically are you suggesting I just forget about fixing that problem and go to the power beyond system?

 

[Anonymous-0]

Not to hy-jack the thread but, I would love to know more about this loader valve you spoke of. I have a 1955 with a Westendorf 40 on it and the 1955 never seems very happy about it at all.

 

[Shep VA]

The remote system is under the seat that the handles you are using control. It is made up of two direction valves and two interlocks. The interlocks are valves that are pressure controlled and close when in the neutral position to hold the cylinders when you return to neutral. Otherwise when pressure is taken off a cylinder in the up position it would simply go back down.

Yes I think you are correct that there is either an interlock valve hanging or something wrong with the remote valve that is allowing oil through, or you have bad O rings on the ports that is allowing oil to pass. It could be a simple fix, like trash hanging an interlock valve, or it could be a major undertaking, you need to get the system tested with some gauges to see what it is doing, where it is holding pressure and where it is losing pressure so you know where to look when you tear it down.

If I had it in the shop we could test it and look at it and probably figure it out what is going on, but it is very hard to do by internet or email.

If you dont use the tractor a great deal and use it mostly for loader work I am suggesting you put a loader valve on it and put it in the power beyond. It appears you only have one remote that is acting up, so you can use the other one for raising cylinders on the equipment unless you really need both remotes for a machine you have. The loader valves have much more control, are quicker, and are made for loader work. You can spend a lot of time and money sorting out a remote problem and still not have a good loader power or control when you are done. Just my experience.

Here is a loader valve picture. Surplus center has nice ones for about $150 and another $50 of hoses and plumbing you can have a nice loader valve set up for about $200.

Just a thought.

I think you are going to need to take the tractor to a shop to test the hydraulics and see what is going on if you are going to fix the remotes.

Good luck

Loader Valve

 

[Ted in minn]

Thank you Shep.

On top of everything else, my three point would not lift last night. Was working Saturday.

Is it possible the oil is moving through the remote valve system back to the reservoir and not going to the internal ram?


As said before I was thinking of getting a remote valve anyway. I rarely, if ever, use two hoses on anything other than the loader. In fact, when I want to blow snow or plow the garden, yes with a 1750 and a four bottom plow, I need to unhook the bucket hoses to get access to a set of couplers. So this would solve my bucket sagging problem, my interaction between two cylinders problem, and give me an open set of couplers.

If I tore down the remote, I would not know what to look for in trouble anyway.

Thank you for the valve source, I looked at the farm store yesterday and only found a single valve in stock. I am assuming the one you sent me is closed or open as required by my Oliver tractor. Pretty good price too.

thanks

ted

 

[Ted in minn]

Look at Shep's last reply to me. Has a link to a valve

 

[Ted in minn]

Look at Shep's last reply to me. Has a link to a valve

 

[Shep VA]

The three point not working is reinforcing my theory that you have something in the remotes messed up. I imagine what was happening is that one of the valves was in the wrong position and fluid was not getting to the three point. Move the remote levers around and see if the three point takes off.

You will need an OPEN center valve for that tractor with a sping center and most of them come with a float detent on one valve. Surplus center has a bunch of different ones, I tend to use the cross valves, but I imgage the eaton ones work good too.

There are instructions on using the power beyond system to plumb the loader valve on this forum, you just have to search. Make sure you use the power beyond ports to power the new loader valve and not the remotes or you have not solved the problem.

Good luck, arn't hydraulics fun.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks, I should of seen it but didn't.

 

[Ted in minn]

Thanks

The 3 point will lift them if I help get them started, but will drop down with even a small push from me. The interelationship of how the oil moves through various valves is what is difficult to follow. My guess is I will need to pull the remote valve apart and see if I can see anything obvious. I use the 3 point as much as the loader so I cannot simply abandon that problem. Maybe I will be lucky and see a piece of straw stuck in a valve or a broken O ring. If it is slight wear, I wont know I am seeing a problem.

thank you for your input and for helping everyone on this site.

Ted