1800 Block Repairs

[Mitch Poindexter]

Dad bought an 1800B a couple of weeks ago that was torn apart because of a bad head gasket; block still in the tractor only the head removed. We have no history on the tractor, but the block was welded previously, it has not had any of the upgrades. He bought it knowing what he was getting. The liners had good protrusion, so he bought a good gasket and we put it back together. Head doesn't leak, tractor runs good, no water in oil.

Here's the problem, guy who previously welded the block didn't go through proper heat treating process, so it leaks water out between the bottom side of the weld and the block when the tractor is running. Weld is 6 inches long on left side, center of block.

Plan A is to try JB Weld first, to see if it holds before taking more drastic measures. Other than a thorough cleaning of paint/oil/diesel, etc. from the weld surface prior to applying the JB Weld, is there any other prep work that we need to take into account to make this patch work well? Thanks, sorry for the long post.

 

[Anonymous-0]

See if you can center pumch the weld. I would throw the JB weld out the window. I would use the cold crack repair method of repair. It works. By using the pins and taking your time you will have a good repair. Also pressure test the block when the repair is made. Questions?

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have no clue what mean when you said the weld did not go through the proper heat treat process. How long is the crack? Also many times when blocks are welded like that pin holes will develop other places.

 

[Mitch Poindexter]

I meant that someone simply tried to run a bead weld over a cast block, so when the weld cooled at a different rate than the block, it simply formed another crack adjacent to the weld, or didn't get the crack closed up in the first place. As mentioned in my original post, the weld is about 6 inches long, so I'm assuming the crack was slighly shorter than that, but it has not been ground out yet.

 

[Mitch Poindexter]

Do you suggest throwing the JB weld out because you don't like the look of it, if so, I can understand your issue. However, if you're suggesting that it is no good for this application, I would like to understand your concerns a little better. The motor is in the tractor, and it runs fine, so we're trying to find a way to keep from pulling the engine again and dismantling it. It is not a show tractor, so pristine looks are not the goal here.

 

[Anonymous-0]

You can do the cold repair method while the block is in the tractor. Many good shops use that method of repair. It takes a little time, but is worth it in the end. Done properly you will not be able to tell it from the block. More questions?

 

[Mike Bock]

grind off weld and bolt a plate over crack if possible drilling and tapping holes every inch our so use lots of silicone i patched a w30 block with a20 in. long crack didnt leak a drop

 

[Gary Spitznogle]

I think what john is saying to do is start at the end of the crack and drill a hole, then tap it and screw a bolt in and cut it off then drill another overlapping it and do the same till done. Ive done this and never had a problem. I usually use 5/16 bolts and put lock tight on for a sealer. I also cut the end off leaving only about 1/4 inch of the thread so it tightens on the tapered threads. this don't take as long as you think and grind the ends off you'll have to look close to know it was done

 

[tom upton]

I agree with your method, as I know of several blocks that have been fixed with this concept. Only difference is use 1/8 inch pipe plugs as they tighten in on a taper and threads are meant to seal.Bolt threads will probably work but why take the chance? Also when done you can take a needle gun on a air hammer and peen it all so that you can hardly tell there was ever a repair one.

 

[e]

Use lock n stich and you won't have to worry about it. Many many MANY B series Cummins #53 blocks have been repaired with it. The 53 block will crack just like yours has, but the advantage with your engine is your are not working through the wheel well. It takes some time, but it's a tried and true method of repair.

And yes, throw the JB weld out the window. If you start grinding and v'ing it out the crack for JB weld, you will just make your life more miserable when you finally decide to make the correct repair.
Lock N Stitch

 

[Future Puller]

I have a 310ci. block from a 1850 gas that you could turn into a diesel block if you needed to. It has been cleaned, magnafluxed and painted. It's just a bare block, it has 2 or 3 knicks but nothing that will cause any problems. I am asking $700.00 for the bare block. Local pickup only, located in East, TN. If your interested send me an e-mail at: [email protected]

 

[Mike Bock]

wouldnt screwing bolts and tappered plugs in crack cause it to open up more?

 

[Anonymous-0]

One thing about 1/8 inch pipe plugs. The taps are low in cost and if you want to use the Irontie plugs it is their # 327 plug.

 

[Mitch Poindexter]

I"ve talked to the folks at Lock N Stitch and their C series kit (the one which is supposed to pull the crack together) is about $250. I think they quoted me $175 on the L series, if I remember correctly. Since we don"t have any history on this block, $200+ seems a little high to invest, so maybe the better route is the 1/8 pipe plugs from the local hardware store.

I assume for those of you who"ve done this procedure before, that you start by drilling the ends of the crack out and pinning there first, then working your way across the crack, skipping space and then overlapping your drill holes to fill in the spaces in between?

 

[RonL]

Well, good advice to take the time to fix it right. However, if it is just a weap or slow leak, I would feed it some silver seal radiator sealer. See if that $4.95 fix will hold it. This will work as long as it is not an active crack where the two surfaces can work across each other.