1943 farmall H

[dan160]

My 1943 H has lights, tires and a cast iron shift knob with four numbers and a letter (i think). It has electric start as well. I'm replacing some gaskets and painting as I go. My questing is: easiest way to remove the radiator with the narrow front/steering to deal with and what is a "war-time" tractor as I"ve heard mine called? Thanks, Dan

 

[jal-SD]

No easy way to remove radiator. (IMHO, removing the radiator on an H is probably the most miserable job there is when restoring a Farmall.) You have to go up through the bottom of the bolster to get at the two bolts that hold the radiator on at the bottom, can't get in there with a socket, takes a wrench & you have to turn it over with each turn. (I've never tried a ratchet wrench, that MIGHT work better.) They are fine threaded & usually rusted. Be sure to get all the cotter pin out. Don't let them turn in the radiator, they'll break the solder on the bottom of the tank. Best luck I've had is to use lots of PB or your favorite penetrating oil for a couple of days before you start on the nuts. Oh, by the way, you can't see what you are doing very well either. An M isn't much better. Also, getting the height right for the steering shaft to go through the top tank when you put it back on is real a pain. (My $0.02 worth. jal-SD)

 

[neblinc]

I will also add that you remove the steering shaft by taking off the threaded cap on the gearbox and dis-connecting the steering shaft at the u-joint.
The whole shaft then kinda unscrews out the gearbox.

Randy

 

[Anonymous-0]

I removed my front end, however the radiator I have not tackled yet. The steering shaft does not jst pull out, a pipe wrench comes in handy to unscrew it out. Are there just to screw in the bottom of the radiator and are there nuts on the top side of them??? Might try to tackle it this week. Thanks.

Andy Sommer, Indiana

 

[Mike CA]

Mine was easy. I just unbolted the U-joint and screwed it right on out. No problems at all. What Jal was saying is true. It is a very tight squeeze up in there. I got mine off. I haven't tried to put it back on yet. That will be soon.

 

[neblinc]

There are supposed to be nuts and springs and cotter keys, if you are lucky they will break loose. Otherwise you will unscrew the the whole stud out of the radiator.
Spray some penetrate and let it soak awhile. Have fun!

Randy

 

[Brainerd Dave]

You've got that right. Only time I threw a tool during the entire restoration. The next time around, I had bought a set of Craftsman ratcheting box wrenches and it was actually pretty easy.

 

[Mike CA]

Randy,

No springs for the radiator mounts. You are thinking of the gas tank.

 

[r4etired]

Don't remember on the H's but the early M's did not have a hole in the casting to work thru,had to do everything from the side. The way I do them is tilt the radiator forward compressing the spring and use a long blade in a sawzall and cut the bolt's. It will leave a long enough stub to weld new bolts to.Wrap wet shop rags around it so it doesnt melt the solder, You will probably spend several hours trying to get the rusted cotter keys out.

 

[Will Sick]

Yes, there should be springs and and washers under the nuts that hold the radiator. They allow for slight twisting of the frame or side rails.

 

[Mike CA]

Yes, there should be springs and and washers under the nuts that hold the radiator. They allow for slight twisting of the frame or side rails.

I looked at the illustrated parts breakdown before I spoke up. The only thing shown is a washer and a castle nut.

 

[John M]

Yes, there should be springs in there Mike. If yours doesnt have them, then they werent put back in. But hey, if the parts book doesnt show them, then maybe they arent suppose to be there.

 

[neblinc]

You must have an incomplete parts book Mike :wink:

16 2 48826D SPRING RADIATOR HOLD DOWN SPRING (S/N 501 to 122291)
16 2 67205D SPRING RADIATOR HOLD DOWN SPRING (S/N 122292 UP)

Randy

 

[Mike CA]

(quoted from post at 05:09:21 10/03/07) You must have an incomplete parts book Mike :wink:

www.caseIH.com

If you are right about springs, well... then I better figure out something quick, because I'm about to put my radiator back on. One of the studs was replaced with a smaller size, so I'll probably have to replace it again with the correct size.

 

[neblinc]

www.caseIH.com

Thats the same parts book I have at work

The diagram for the radiator is pretty bad, but I was sure there were springs on mine, so I looked through the parts listing for them.

Randy

 

[Anonymous-0]

Does your tractor have only 4 speeds? During the war, I think most H and M were shipped with 4 speeds. The 5th is easily locked out with a long bolt that screws down into the top of the transmission, just ahead of the 4-5 shift rail. If this bolt is raised, or replaced with a shorter bolt, bam! you've just "installed" fifth gear! Of course, a 15 mph road gear would be totally useless on steel wheels. The (several) steel-wheeled tractors I used to drive were intolerable to ride on over 4 mph (on sod or soft dirt) or 2 mph (on a gravel road). I am not even sure an H could pull itself on steel in fifth gear.

 

[James Wiederhold]

Could anyone help me with a problem that i am having with my Farmall H. It pops out of fifth gear, is this a common problem. Thanks for your halp, James

 

[Mike CA]

James, you should really make a new post, or else few people will see your cry for help.