1944 Farmall H Running Problem

Andy Motteberg

Well-known Member
Hi all,
I think I've done about everything on the 1944 Farmall H tractor to try and get it to stay running. I put oil in the cylinders today and did a compression check, Cylinder #1 has about 35, #2 Cylinder has about 65, and #3 and #4 have about 90. The valves were way out of adjustment so I set them correctly, same problem, still won't run. I cleaned the manifold, same problem. Me and Dad worked on the H a lot today and we can't get it fixed. We are guessing that the piston rings might be stuck, so I'll be replacing the piston rings next. I think this engine should have more compression because when we had the cylinder head off, we seen it has aluminum pistons and a high compression gas cylinder head.

Talk to you all later,
Andy.
 
Do you have your timing 100% if you have good fuel flow and timing it should fire at least. even at those low compression levels it should run maybe not the best but should ignite. Do you have a good strong spark? you said you checked the valves clearances were they all good and free, and not hung up? just some thoughts

Andrew
 
Couple thoughts; Valves were way out of adjustment and one cylinder low compression. Have you made sure valves aren't sticking? Are you getting enough fuel to "flood" the plugs? Are you getting a hot blue spark at the plugs? We have had a running engine with a hole in one piston, another that burned so much oil it looked like a diesel under full load. Step back and look at ignition/timing/fuel delivery, it should run, maybe poorly. I've driven some into the shop and taken them apart and wonder how they could have functioned at all.
 
I had a 41 H that would only start by pulling.
Then I had the mag rebuilt and from then on it started up by itself the minute I came out of the house.
 
Andy,
I posted about the manifold being bad on the last post. I having been trying to think of a way that you might check it on the tractor. Try pulling the rocker assy. off so all the valves are all closed. Next take a shop vac. set it up to blow not suck. Duck tape the hose into the exhaust pipe. Open the throdle and don't put the choke on. Now turn on the vac if it blows air out the carb you have a hole or a crack in the manifold somewhere or it could be a valve leaking if you pull the plugs you could tell what cylinder the valve is leaking in. my guess is #1 cyl. if the valves are what is wrong. Try tapping the one that's leaking with a brass hammer and spray lube to get it to seat. Once it seats you will need to reset your valve adjustment on it or it will be too tight. You said there was a blockage in the intake what was in there? I glad you reposted I've been wondering if you got it going. DO NOT GIVE UP ON IT!
 
Thanks for the help, there was thick hard black crusty carbon buildup in the manifold before. I kept pushing wire through it and putting Sea Foam in the manifold and I got the carbon out, but it still runs the same.
 
Thanks, but I don't think I have a spark problem. The problem is it won't draw the gas from the carburetor into the engine. All gaskets are good and don't leak and it has a good flow of gas to the carb. Now matter where the carb screws are adjusted, you can't flood that engine at all.
 
I've checked everything over SEVERAL times and can't get it fixed. All valves are moving freely, not sticking at all, the valves look like they are seating right. The engine will not flood at all, it takes all the fuel it can get to run for a very short time. It will only start after you have your hand over the carburetor throat for a long time while cranking it with the starter, if I take my hand off, the engine dies right away. Makes no difference where the carb is set. Before I installed the mag, it had very good blue spark. Engine seems to be correctly timed.

Thanks.
 
It seems to have good spark, when you can finally get it started with a hand over the carb throat, it runs for a very short time and shuts off again.

Thanks,
Andy.
 
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