1948 MH 44K Scenario

[Vinnie L.]

Sometime ago, I acquired a 1948 MH 44 (KR) that was stored in a barn here in Alabama. It was running when it was parked, but has set for the last 35+ years. I trailered it to my shed and it set for another 6 years. My question is, should I drain evertything then replace with new oil and coolant etc., then attempt to start and run, or should I disassemble the motor and replace all gaskets, oil, and coolant etc., then start? Motor is not stuck and there are no signs of leaks. I'm sure that I need to clean out the tank, gas line, filter, and sediment bowl. Would I be taking a chance at damaging anything? This is my first time at a project this size and scope. Sorry for the detail, I just want to do it right the first time. Thank you for your assistance. Vinnie L., Alabama

 

[rustred]

only do as conditions dictate. absolutely foolish to tear it down, unless your doing a total restoration.yes do the oil and filter change. remove spark plugs and lube cyl's with oil. start at fuel tank and go down to carb and clean or repair as required. once you have it running do a compression check on it and this gives a good indication of engine condition. check or replace points also before starting. good idea to adjust the valves also and check timing. also if its sat that long good idea to pull oil pan and clean out the sludge, as definitely will have some. check oil pick up screen at the same time. that some pointers for you, good luck.

 

[Anonymous-0]

just today got a FORD 9N running that has sat for 30+ years in side a old shed. first thing i did was pull oil plug then removed the filter and canister to wash out let every thing drain while i cleaned the carb real good made sure fuel line was clean and cleaned tank the best i could filled and replaced all fluids and put gas in dropped in the battery and it turned over about 5-6 times and started. ran like a new one after about 10 minn. not bad for 300.00. will use it in the next few weeks and change oil and filter and rear end oil

 

[Vinnie L.]

Hey thanks for the suggestions. I didn't think about the valves and timing. Will do all you recommend.
Vinnie L.

 

[LarryM]

Been there done this.
1. Crack the drain on the rear end and see if oil or water leaks out. If oil. Leave it for now. Many years ago they used a thick black oil that if you drain it and and use 85/140 it will leak in places it was not before.
2. All new igniton parts. Trust me. It is worth it.
3. If it sat for a lot of years with the fuel turned on and fuel in the tank then the carb will be full of varnish. We had a carb that had to sit for days in the dip before it got clean. No rust - just varnish. Check your tank before putting fuel in it.
4. Change oil of course. Crack the drain plug and see if you have any coolant in the pan.
5. Coolant of course.
6. Set valves.
7. To prevent a cyclinder from scoring you may want to place motor oil in each cylinder over night. It will seep down into the rings.

 

[Vinnie L.]

Thanks Larry, some very good points, this is great! More to prepare before starting this thing. I appreciate all the information.
Vinnie L. Alabama

 

[SadFarmall]

I started a Farmall M that had sat for several years. First thing I did was squirt a good quantity of sewing machine oil into the cylinders and let it soak. Then changed to engine oil. Then cranked the motor over by hand until the gauge showed oil pressure. Then I started it. Reduces the possibility of breaking rings. Also lets you know if oil pump etc is actually working or not.
SadFarmall