1949 8N Projects updates:

[CFB]

Thought I'd post back: Just putting the brakes on remains for this years' projects on my 8N.
Front wheel hubs: I cemented in one inner race with the loctite bearing mount. Seemed to work well. Pounded the inner seals in with a large socket. That seemed to go well too. This is where I wish I knew more at the start and paid attention more to details as one seal sticks out slightly more than the other. I let the dealer pound out the old studs as there was varied answers as to if the were smooth by the head or knurled or something else. They were smooth. Since the flat part on the hub would not keep the stud from spinning, they tack welded it. If I knew he would do that I could have just welded two of the four I replace.
PTO: two benefits. Now I know how this is put together - which I liked about all these projects - the second benefit is indirect. I have a hitch device below the PTO. It was full of dirt and grease, so I though I would just unbolt (4) it, but one of the bolts just spun. A post here thought that there were nuts inside the housing. With the shaft out, I could see that that was not true, at least in this 8N, but rather bubble like cavities. So there must be something in the outside part that is stripped allowing the bolt to spin, so I might just try another bolt to see if I get the same results - this will be another post someday as I research here the proper/safe ways to pull.
Anyway, I was able to pound out the seal, which was bigger than the replacement. I pounded in the new seal. Then I used my 4x4 again on the ground this time to pound in the shaft. Instead of pounding on the shaft though, thinking that may put too much pressure on the bearing, I cut a hold in a 2x4 just big enough to clear the shaft sleeve and slip on top the bearing. I few whacks on the 2x4 and the bearing went into place.
skip over the rear axle seal and brake job a second: Filled up with hydraulic fluid and when done looked at the rear and panicked as fluid was pouring out. I unscrewed the pto cover and dry, but then I saw the fluid coming out the lower left corner bolt - which I did not realize those holes went all the way through. Fortunately, the bolts were handy and I quickly screwed them in. But later after I started the tractor and let it run a while. I did have some seepage at the new seal. No leakage when the tractor is off. I had left off those two chain arms to paint up later.
Rear axle seals: I had to take one axle shaft to the dealer to remove the hub. They used a bolt on puller. But by having to do that, I found out about the shims and camshafts. So I found out that the camshaft just pivots in a housing socket. So I did the other side too. The good part was I was able to clean everything up. I had 5 shims on each side. One paper on both sides of the back plate. After the inside paper were two metal and one more paper. I just put them all back in the way they were. I put the wheels on with out the brakes just to see if I still had the opposite spinning motion of the wheel - and I do.
I'm glad I had read the 75 tips as I learned and now saw the two different sized brake pawls and the teeth point differently. The FO-4 seemed to say they were the same.
Then I started the tractor which started right up and I still got oil pressure which had been an issue previously.
I'll try to put the brakes together this weekend.
Thanks forum for sharing your wealth of knowledge. One told me it is only scary the first time you do it. It definitely was but following step by step of forum posts - sometimes it takes more than one to get the correct picture - and talking too with parts dealers and taking your time - and taking notes and pictures (never enough) one can do it.
cfb

 

[showcrop]

Thanks for reporting back and congratulations on your ambition in tackling the job, and your progress. It sounds like you have two places where bolts were used that were too long for the blind holes. Can you get at the inside of the bottom one with a Dremel with a grinder and smooth it enough to put a nut on a bolt with a sealing washer under it?

 

[Jim L WA]

CFB, thanks for the update. Good read. Regarding that bolt that just spins on what sounds like a drawbar hitch, If you can get something like a screwdriver blade in between the hitch and diff. housing in order to put pulling tension on the bolt, it might grab some good threads and come out while you turn it.

 

[CFB]

yes, thanks Jim. I thought of doing something like this too, so glad I'm thinking along that same line. I still want to try the other three nuts to see if any hold on their own so I know more what I'm dealing with.

 

[CFB]

thanks Showcrop.
I'm not sure I follow about those two bolts and blind holes. Are you referring to the ones by the PTO? Please clarify if you have the time. thanks

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 19:13:35 11/01/18)
thanks Showcrop.
I'm not sure I follow about those two bolts and blind holes. Are you referring to the ones by the PTO? Please clarify if you have the time. thanks

This part of you post "hitch device below the PTO. It was full of dirt and grease, so I though I would just unbolt (4) it, but one of the bolts just spun. A post here thought that there were nuts inside the housing. With the shaft out, I could see that that was not true, at least in this 8N, but rather bubble like cavities." told me that the holes for the bolts that hold the hitch were supposed to go only part way into there casing, but from inside you found that they went all the way through, leaving the cavities. This is not all that uncommon on old tractors. If this is not the case, but instead the holes are just stripped out, you can simply install a Heli-Coil.

 

[CFB]

(quoted from post at 05:49:16 11/02/18)

(quoted from post at 19:13:35 11/01/18)
thanks Showcrop.
I'm not sure I follow about those two bolts and blind holes. Are you referring to the ones by the PTO? Please clarify if you have the time. thanks

This part of you post "hitch device below the PTO. It was full of dirt and grease, so I though I would just unbolt (4) it, but one of the bolts just spun. A post here thought that there were nuts inside the housing. With the shaft out, I could see that that was not true, at least in this 8N, but rather bubble like cavities." told me that the holes for the bolts that hold the hitch were supposed to go only part way into there casing, but from inside you found that they went all the way through, leaving the cavities. This is not all that uncommon on old tractors. If this is not the case, but instead the holes are just stripped out, you can simply install a Heli-Coil.

thanks for taking the extra time to clarify. I guess I was not clear. There was another discussion on some sway bars that someone saw and wondered about them, but on the picture shown was a hitch similar to mine , so I inquired if they knew about the bolts holding it - that was where someone thought that the bolts tightened on the inside of the housing. Well, on some models maybe that was true, but not on mine; after I had the pto shaft out, I could see these cavities or like caves. The bolts do not go all the way through; something underneath is stripped it seems. Maybe it is something like my front hub lugs with a flat side that doesn't hold anymore. Hopefully one of the others will come lose for me to know. That helicoil sounds like an interesting option/solution. I don't think I would have thought of that. thanks.

 

[CFB]

I did get the brakes on. In hindsight I should have realized that I needed to put the camshafts in place before mounting the brake plate, but maybe that will answer my setback, but I'll finish brakes first. One of my screw adjusters does not screw all the way in, so I made both of them about a half inch out. I ended up having to screw them in a bit for proper clearance in the drum. By hand spinning the tires, and just using my hand, the wheel stopped nicely. And the pedals are level. I lucked out with one, but learned from the other that I had the pads upside down or inside out, which prevented the shoe from slipping in front of that propeller thing on the back of the brake plate, so I learned two things. So not so bad, just flipped them. Putting the green spring on was not as easy as taking off. I was just able to use a locking pliers to remove them but not strong enough to pull in place. One one side then I used a long screwdriver and put the tip over the shoe protrusion (the thing the spring hooks onto), and the spring slipped on. This did not work for the other side, I used my neighbors tool, which I new worked on leverage, but didn't know how to anchor it. I used a paint stick on top the pad so the pointing curve dug into that and that was enough to let the hook side raise the spring to get it onto the protrusion. I attached a picture. I did always have to check/fix that the slots in both ends of the adjuster screw were on the shoe. Put the drums on and boy does it make a nice tight fit with that new dust felt. Put the hub and wheels on as I was going to drive the tractor over the next day or so when the ground dry a bit, but this was the downer, I did not have the steady opposite rotation anymore, just a hint of it now. It would do it for about a half turn, then stop.
I left my John Smith article in the barn, but I'm sure this means I'm too loose with the axle ends and need to remove shims.
By review, I have 5 on each side, three paper and two metal.
I know the article said I am adjusting both sides, but is it okay to remove a metal(thicker than the paper) shim and see if the opposite rotation returns? Or do I need to remove equal shims from both sides? What do you think I should start with? I was thinking I have to undo my work with the brakes but maybe not.
Appreciate any advice. So close. Thanks.

 

[Dollar Bill]

I did not have the steady opposite rotation anymore, just a hint of it now. It would do it for about a half turn, then stop.

You're likely OK. Grab the hub and check in and out clearance. What you're shooting for is a slight amount of axle end play. You should hear/feel a clunk when push/pulling on the axle and the other axle attempts to counter-rotate.