Thought I'd post back: Just putting the brakes on remains for this years' projects on my 8N.
Front wheel hubs: I cemented in one inner race with the loctite bearing mount. Seemed to work well. Pounded the inner seals in with a large socket. That seemed to go well too. This is where I wish I knew more at the start and paid attention more to details as one seal sticks out slightly more than the other. I let the dealer pound out the old studs as there was varied answers as to if the were smooth by the head or knurled or something else. They were smooth. Since the flat part on the hub would not keep the stud from spinning, they tack welded it. If I knew he would do that I could have just welded two of the four I replace.
PTO: two benefits. Now I know how this is put together - which I liked about all these projects - the second benefit is indirect. I have a hitch device below the PTO. It was full of dirt and grease, so I though I would just unbolt (4) it, but one of the bolts just spun. A post here thought that there were nuts inside the housing. With the shaft out, I could see that that was not true, at least in this 8N, but rather bubble like cavities. So there must be something in the outside part that is stripped allowing the bolt to spin, so I might just try another bolt to see if I get the same results - this will be another post someday as I research here the proper/safe ways to pull.
Anyway, I was able to pound out the seal, which was bigger than the replacement. I pounded in the new seal. Then I used my 4x4 again on the ground this time to pound in the shaft. Instead of pounding on the shaft though, thinking that may put too much pressure on the bearing, I cut a hold in a 2x4 just big enough to clear the shaft sleeve and slip on top the bearing. I few whacks on the 2x4 and the bearing went into place.
skip over the rear axle seal and brake job a second: Filled up with hydraulic fluid and when done looked at the rear and panicked as fluid was pouring out. I unscrewed the pto cover and dry, but then I saw the fluid coming out the lower left corner bolt - which I did not realize those holes went all the way through. Fortunately, the bolts were handy and I quickly screwed them in. But later after I started the tractor and let it run a while. I did have some seepage at the new seal. No leakage when the tractor is off. I had left off those two chain arms to paint up later.
Rear axle seals: I had to take one axle shaft to the dealer to remove the hub. They used a bolt on puller. But by having to do that, I found out about the shims and camshafts. So I found out that the camshaft just pivots in a housing socket. So I did the other side too. The good part was I was able to clean everything up. I had 5 shims on each side. One paper on both sides of the back plate. After the inside paper were two metal and one more paper. I just put them all back in the way they were. I put the wheels on with out the brakes just to see if I still had the opposite spinning motion of the wheel - and I do.
I'm glad I had read the 75 tips as I learned and now saw the two different sized brake pawls and the teeth point differently. The FO-4 seemed to say they were the same.
Then I started the tractor which started right up and I still got oil pressure which had been an issue previously.
I'll try to put the brakes together this weekend.
Thanks forum for sharing your wealth of knowledge. One told me it is only scary the first time you do it. It definitely was but following step by step of forum posts - sometimes it takes more than one to get the correct picture - and talking too with parts dealers and taking your time - and taking notes and pictures (never enough) one can do it.
cfb
Front wheel hubs: I cemented in one inner race with the loctite bearing mount. Seemed to work well. Pounded the inner seals in with a large socket. That seemed to go well too. This is where I wish I knew more at the start and paid attention more to details as one seal sticks out slightly more than the other. I let the dealer pound out the old studs as there was varied answers as to if the were smooth by the head or knurled or something else. They were smooth. Since the flat part on the hub would not keep the stud from spinning, they tack welded it. If I knew he would do that I could have just welded two of the four I replace.
PTO: two benefits. Now I know how this is put together - which I liked about all these projects - the second benefit is indirect. I have a hitch device below the PTO. It was full of dirt and grease, so I though I would just unbolt (4) it, but one of the bolts just spun. A post here thought that there were nuts inside the housing. With the shaft out, I could see that that was not true, at least in this 8N, but rather bubble like cavities. So there must be something in the outside part that is stripped allowing the bolt to spin, so I might just try another bolt to see if I get the same results - this will be another post someday as I research here the proper/safe ways to pull.
Anyway, I was able to pound out the seal, which was bigger than the replacement. I pounded in the new seal. Then I used my 4x4 again on the ground this time to pound in the shaft. Instead of pounding on the shaft though, thinking that may put too much pressure on the bearing, I cut a hold in a 2x4 just big enough to clear the shaft sleeve and slip on top the bearing. I few whacks on the 2x4 and the bearing went into place.
skip over the rear axle seal and brake job a second: Filled up with hydraulic fluid and when done looked at the rear and panicked as fluid was pouring out. I unscrewed the pto cover and dry, but then I saw the fluid coming out the lower left corner bolt - which I did not realize those holes went all the way through. Fortunately, the bolts were handy and I quickly screwed them in. But later after I started the tractor and let it run a while. I did have some seepage at the new seal. No leakage when the tractor is off. I had left off those two chain arms to paint up later.
Rear axle seals: I had to take one axle shaft to the dealer to remove the hub. They used a bolt on puller. But by having to do that, I found out about the shims and camshafts. So I found out that the camshaft just pivots in a housing socket. So I did the other side too. The good part was I was able to clean everything up. I had 5 shims on each side. One paper on both sides of the back plate. After the inside paper were two metal and one more paper. I just put them all back in the way they were. I put the wheels on with out the brakes just to see if I still had the opposite spinning motion of the wheel - and I do.
I'm glad I had read the 75 tips as I learned and now saw the two different sized brake pawls and the teeth point differently. The FO-4 seemed to say they were the same.
Then I started the tractor which started right up and I still got oil pressure which had been an issue previously.
I'll try to put the brakes together this weekend.
Thanks forum for sharing your wealth of knowledge. One told me it is only scary the first time you do it. It definitely was but following step by step of forum posts - sometimes it takes more than one to get the correct picture - and talking too with parts dealers and taking your time - and taking notes and pictures (never enough) one can do it.
cfb