Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I've tuned up my tractor (still 6-volt & side dist) runs good but I was bushogging and it shut off, battery wouldn't crank it, I let it set over night and it cranked fine in the morning, ran about 30 min and shut down again, anyone have any ideas whats causing this?
 
Randie---

If your tractor will run for about 15 minutes before it shuts down and then restarts in about 30 minutes.....replace the ignition switch.

If your tractor runs for about an hour before shutting down and then won"t start until a complete cooldown (over nite, 3-4 hours)....replace the coil.

My guess would be the cheapest fix----a new ignition switch.

Tim
 
I replaced the ignition switch and replaced coil, still will not start, any more suggestions? I've replaced the wiring harness about 1 mo ago as well as new plugs, points, condincer, I'm stumped
 
So it won't start at all anymore?

Did you check for spark?

Did you verify there's power to the coil (from the ignition switch)?

This is a "side-mount" distributor, correct?

A COMMON problem with those is the insulation on the primary terminal stud that passes through the distributor body.

If the insulation fails, the stud shorts to ground and it's the same as if the breaker points never open. It can even be "thermal", shorting when the distributor warms up.
 
Randie- are you saying that the starter does not run after it quits or that the starter runs but the engine will not start ?
 
I tried to see if the points were firing but i couldn't tell if they were, I think the condencer might have gone bad, gonna replace it and the points next.
 
You didn't confirm it's a "side mount", but I'll ASSUME it is.

Unless you have endless funds, it's time to stop "taking it for a trip through the parts department" and do a little troubleshooting.

Connect a test light between the primary terminal on the distributor and ground. (Just a test lamp, NOT one with it's own battery.)

Turn on the ignition switch and crank the engine with the starter.

What does the light do... on steady, blinks, never lights?
 
Yes its a side mount dist,the strap from the coil screw on the side that connects the points 7 condenser broke as I removed the condenser, it was bairly together, might have been my problem, how do I replace it, it looked like a piece of copper.
 
Some quality breaker point sets us a similar copper strip in parallel with the spring. If you have an old set of points like that lying around you have a ready source of a replacement copper strip.

The part IS still available at the NH dealer, as well as from NUMEROUS on-line sources. GOOGLE the part #, 8N12209.

Some guys simple replace it with a length of insulated automotive wire. That CAN be done. but be sure to route it where the advance weights (under the breaker plate) won't catch it.
 
o.k. I ran a new piece of wire, now how do I get the motor timed,(I had to remove the dist)? Do you get #1 cylinder up and point the rotor towards #1 like you would an auto engine? I really appreciate the help.
 
you shouldn't have removed the dizzy for that easy repair. in any even.. get the #1 cyl at tdc on comp stroke and place the dizzy in use the place the rotor is pinting as #1 cyl.. then fire order is 1-2-4-3

soundguy
 
Sounds like you have two problems; fails to run and the starter won"t turn the engine over.

When it shut down, did it abruptley quit (ignition system problem) or did it sputter, cough and stop(fuel system problem)?

If it abruptly quit, get off immediately and check the spark. If you have none that will confirm the primary ignition circuit as the problem.
If it sputtered, immediately check for fuel delivery by opening the plug at the bottom of the carb fuel bowl. Fuel should gush out CONTINUOUSLY as long as there is fuel in the tank. If it dribbles or is intermittent, check the filters and the fuel vent.

Regarding the starter, make sure that your battery is charging. MAKING SURE THAT THE TRACTOR IS NOT IN GEAR, jump the starter directly from the battery. If the starter turns the engine over, it"s OK and you problem is in the starter circuit starter button, solenoid and asociated wiring.

Systematically diagnose the problem before you start throwing parts at it. and you"ll find the root cause.
 
A bad condensor can mimic gas problems.I had a Model A Ford that would run about 1000 feet and skip backfire and quit.Went back home ,it did a repeat.No shortage of gas.A new condensor fixed it.
 
Put the old condensor back in and try it.There are two ways to spell condensor/condenser.Your spelling is way off.
 
You dont need a test lamp.The ammeter will flick zero to 5 amps if the points are opening and closing.Old knowledge that seems to have been lost now.
 
Home Depot sells a square of copper step flashing that you can use to make a new one.A leather punch will make the screw holes.
 
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