1950 John Deere A carb issues

JasonFedewa

New User
Having some carb (DLTX 71) issues with my 1950 A. When I crank the motor I get gas coming out of the bottom of the throttle shaft. Carb doesn't leak otherwise. No white smoke from muffler & doesn't fire. I do have spark. I've cleaned all the secret passage ways, adjusted the float so it is 1/2 inch from the top, tested the float and it doesn't leak. Also tested the needle and seat. They tested good but I tried with another spare needle and seat with no change. I've heard that the baffle vents can cause odd issues but they don't seem to be clogged when I spray carb cleaner through them. What else is odd is that the plugs never get wet. The gas must be going into the crank case. I plan to change the oil but want to figure this out first. Was running before I replaced the throttle shaft, bushings and cleaned the passage ways due to poor running. Really at a loss but I am no expert.
 
Check that air filter is not restricted by disconnecting air pipe from front of carburetor and block it away from carburetor. This will also determine if carburetor is flooding or not as gas will run out of carburetor if it is. If carburetor does not appear to be flooding at carburetor, drain crankcase and check that it is not overfull with diluted oil and fuel?? as if it is it can flood from the back side of cylinders if overfull. DW
 
Yes you can remove it there is most likely a rubber coupler that you will have to loosen to get it off but there should be enough play with it disconnected at the carb to just move it out of the way. Tom in Mn.
 
I did soak the carb pretty good but didn't remove the nozzle. Guessing I should probably do that. Can it be removed, cleaned and reinstalled or should I plan on buying a new one?
 
There is a utube video produced by Steiner Tractor that shows you how to rebuild a carb. Maybe you should look at that or have it professionally rebuilt. Tom in Mn.
 
Take the big nut off the bottom of the bowl. There's a spring that will fall out, don't lose it. The main nozzle is a slight press fit. You can easily make a puller with a long 10-24 screw and a couple of nuts and washers. Once it moves a little it should slip out. Carb need to be taken off to do this. Roberts Carb sells a kit.
 
There are two things that you missed. (1) There is a plug missing from the bottom of the throttle shaft. (2) The float setting on your carb is 3/8 of a inch.
 
So the engine fired up and ran before but now it doesn t?
This is my process after working on a carburetor.
Bolt it to the intake manifold, screw in a hose nipple with clear plastic hose into the bowl drain, with gas line attached to carb fuel inlet, turn on fuel valve, holding tubing vertical like a water level alongside the carburetor, gas will rise to float setting. If it continues to creep up, needle/seat needs work, it s not seating.
With fuel level set, and fixed, turn idle adjustment 1-1/2 turns out, load needle same. Idle adjustment with throttle plates cracked open a good 1/16. I give it full choke and crank the engine a couple revolutions with the key off. Open the choke, just crack the throttle, key on, crank engine, usually fires right up. Let it warm up, make adjustments.
 
Update on this issue...I tore the carb back apart and this time took the nozzle out. Cleaned EVERYTHING and reassembled. Setting float and needles to stock levels.

Also, found that gas had INDEED been leaking into the crankcase via a bad needle and seat and poorly (by me) closed sediment bowl shutoff. Over 2 gallons over. Changed oil and filter. Cranked and still wouldn't fire. Changed condenser out of a hunch and it fired after 2 cranks. Ran beautifully! Hadn't ran in 2 years. Really appreciate everyone's help on this one!
 

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