Definitely water, rad was really down and when I drained the engine a lot of water came out with the oil....just talking to our local parts dealer and he claims the 55 does not have liners, just a straight bore, hopefully he's right and might be able to get away with just a head gasket, find out later today when I take the head off if he is right.(quoted from post at 09:51:09 01/31/18) Is it fuel? Possibly the diaphram in the lift pump?
After it sits overnite unscrew the oil drain plug a little
to see if antifreeze drips out, can also smell the oil
on the dipstick to see if it?s diesel or gas if it?s a gas
engine.
Head is off and all the liners look good and sealed tight, head gasket looked a little iffy, water was getting into one cylinder # 3 but everything looks good so far, will do another inspection today - there is a little oil passage between 2&3 on right hand side- slight recess, is there something supposed to go in it? there was nothing? and is there anyway to thoroughly check liners like a pressure test to really make sure that the head gasket was at fault? Thanks everyone for your help on this, and your right, the dealer is out to lunch, pretty obvious if you can buy liners it has liners.(quoted from post at 19:20:32 01/31/18) be careful when ordering new liners as I believe there are different sizes depending on year of manufacture
yup, filled it with some coolant and yes it is leaking ----as a last attempt to see weather it is worth fixing this engine or not will pull the pan and remove #3 piston and pull a liner to see how bad it is, have another engine with one bad journal but might be the lesser of 2 evils.(quoted from post at 12:12:49 02/01/18) Hi yes that recess is supposed to have a rubber sealing ring in there, sometimes they are missing from a previous repair or fall out and you didn't
notice when you took it apart. Hopefully a new one comes with the gasket kit you will buy to get the other gaskets you are changing, the front crank
seal is another place they leak the seal goes hard and cuts a groove in the boss on the front pulley. Hopefully the rear seals not leaking to it's a
2 piece rope seal and the motor has to come out to change the top part.
You won't tell anything much from looking at the tops of the liners as to being sealed water tight. thats why I said oil pan first really to test
it, as now you really should put it back together to pressure test the O rings properly, or just do the head and fill it up with coolant and hope
you fixed it. either way now you could be chasing your tail fixing it.
sometimes filling the coolant jacket might be enough to see it, or you may see rust marks in the block with the pan off on the outside of the sleeve
where it pokes through. are you sure that water didn't get in there when you pulled the head it does happen sometimes, as it's odd you got a big
amount of water in the pan and maybe didn't notice other symptoms first.
pulling that pans a fun job, as it's real heavy cast iron so be careful and find the "hidden bolts" you might easily not see up behind the frame
rails at the back and up in the front I think there is one or 2 down a deep hole you might miss, you might have to slack the other bell housing
bolts to drop the pan to. it's been a while since I did one, and i can't remember if it pinches tight between the bell housing and the front plate.
the wish bone has to come off to or remove the axle if the bolts dont come out. I've had them where the bolts and pivot pin is seized and the
whole front casting had to come off with the axle.
I have an expensive pressure test kit here as I do quite a few diagnostic tests on tractors with the same type of problems. you can do it with a few
psi from a compressor (like 15 or less so you don't stuff the rad first ) in through the overflow pipe outlet with the rad cap on. most of the majors I see don't have a pressure
cap, if yours does the oil filler cap will fit on instead to seal the rad filler while you are doing it.
Sadly these old majors are like other old tractors now one problem leads to a whole world of headaches, Lots of them are running with worn out
cranks, and little oil pressure. Hopefully yours isn't one and you find the cranks worn and needs new bearings if you have to pull any caps. They
are a tractor thats not worth fixing unless it has huge sentimental value, or you want to spend money you will never get back selling it.
Regards Robert
(quoted from post at 01:02:43 02/02/18) hi if the blocks ok rebuild what you got if you aren't planning on getting "divorced" from the old
girl anytime soon. If another motors sat around you could find you get issues with the sealing
rings again right away, or sometime further down the line. Unless you know somebody rebuilt the
motor recently and did it properly.
I Got blue blood in my system as my family history is farming with the Dagenham Fordsons back in
the Uk I remember the last one leaving the farm in about 1979 or so,and our family history is
originally Essex to on my Dads side. I got a pile of Fordson Majors here in my collection in
Canada. I'd bankrupt my self if I restored all of them to like new L.O.L. I got a last year 5000
diesel here we still use to cut grass with. I rebuilt the motor in it about 10 years ago
though.Dad drives it and thinks about the good old days farming with them !.
Just pulled the other one down, looks like new inside, even the head is clean and shiny like someone just did a number on it and the rest is extremely clean inside....why it was replaced is the guy spun a rod bearing shell...won't get into detail but besides the crank journal no other damage i can find, just pulled that piston and it is like new and the liners look like they were done as well, the only problem I see is the one I just pulled apart has a bigger wrist pin but other then that they look identical, will know more as I get further into it.
Regards Robert
[b:33d07a4f9e]Will check them out , thanks[/b:33d07a4f9e](quoted from post at 15:23:54 02/04/18) I've had good luck ordering parts from Agriline, reasonable shipping costs.
https://www.agrilineproducts.com/parts.html?_=Ford_and_Fordson__Fordson__Super_Major
[b:afe4576978]the super major engine doesnt have the flame ring on the top that I noticed when I pulled one, looked like it was just put in, no rust and in great shape...all 4 sit about 4 thou proud of the block which I read they are supposed to, the crank in the 55 Major is in good shape and all the numbers read right except for the last letter which is supposed to end in an F and mine in the 55 ends in a D ??? trying for hours to get my 3rd liner out of the 55 and it don't want to budge...the other 2 came out not to bad but this one %$&%#@#. Just weighing my options on what way to go...so fare the super major is winning....If my 55 grank fits then all I need is a super major rod and the we are underway with all the big parts and we will go from there.(quoted from post at 09:09:45 02/05/18) Hi Gord where abouts in western Canada are you? Do you have a dealer close to you that sells A&I agricultural parts. I'm in Manitoba and use Harvest
salvage In Brandon. All the parts are listed online with prices and are usually good quality they are Vapormatic mostly.
I pay online listed price plus shipping. some A&I dealers load the prices more than online. Our JD dealers will sell you a $350 A&I part for over
$700. I run a repair shop and found that out when a customer wanted to buy parts himself through our local Deere dealer, so be careful.. I guess your
super engine is the later one with the 2 O rings one bottom and the other at the top. or is your engine one that doesn't have the flame ring on top
of the liner like the later ones do?. Regards Robert
[b:f24ebe7fd6]P.S. Vancouver Island B.C. [/b:f24ebe7fd6](quoted from post at 09:09:45 02/05/18) Hi Gord where abouts in western Canada are you? Do you have a dealer close to you that sells A&I agricultural parts. I'm in Manitoba and use Harvest
salvage In Brandon. All the parts are listed online with prices and are usually good quality they are Vapormatic mostly.
I pay online listed price plus shipping. some A&I dealers load the prices more than online. Our JD dealers will sell you a $350 A&I part for over
$700. I run a repair shop and found that out when a customer wanted to buy parts himself through our local Deere dealer, so be careful.. I guess your
super engine is the later one with the 2 O rings one bottom and the other at the top. or is your engine one that doesn't have the flame ring on top
of the liner like the later ones do?. Regards Robert
[b:a384861874]don't know if this helps id the newer engine as to the year but the block serial numbers aree1addn6015 with a t4 underneath,(quoted from post at 09:50:03 02/07/18) Hi Gord
these old majors start getting complicated with ford updates and mix and match parts over the last years of swapping stuff to keep them going(
like you are thinking of doing). the later sleeves flame ring is a raised ring round the sleeve about 1/4 wide and a 1/16 tall thats on the top face
of the sleeve. do you have that raised ring or just a smooth top with the flange that stops the liner falling through the block. There are several
types of diesel cranks, they will all fit in the block but the timing gears or crank structure where altered, and some had different sized pegs for
locating the flywheel.
To be honest pictures would start to help some, I'm not working with these things like I used to and having to dig through my memory as to whats
what to figure out what you might have that I can't see or remember the exact change years. Things like head porting changed in production(
needing different intake/exhaust manifolds) and the pump mountings did to, with vacuum and mechanical governed pumps( also different intake again)
on the supers/5000 diesel so you might have the old style head on the 55 and the new style head/ manifolds on the super that don't fit if they are
not on the motor you are going to use. pump mounting bolts could be different to, again I can't remember whats what there,for bolt holes on one to
the other.
oh by the way the oil pan on a super and 55 is different to. I think 55 is the short oil pump with no pressure relief on it thats located in the
timing case, and the super is the pump with a relief valve built in to the pump. your sump won't fit the super as the part where the pump fits isn't
deep enough to bolt on over the oil pump with the relief valve on. Also the pin size for the wishbone is not the same either a supers bigger.
Regards Robert
(quoted from post at 10:34:49 02/07/18)[b:2c5a80d203](fixed a type error) don't know if this helps id the newer engine as to the year but the block serial numbers are e1addn6015 with a t4 underneath,(quoted from post at 09:50:03 02/07/18) Hi Gord
these old majors start getting complicated with ford updates and mix and match parts over the last years of swapping stuff to keep them going(
like you are thinking of doing). the later sleeves flame ring is a raised ring round the sleeve about 1/4 wide and a 1/16 tall thats on the top face
of the sleeve. do you have that raised ring or just a smooth top with the flange that stops the liner falling through the block. There are several
types of diesel cranks, they will all fit in the block but the timing gears or crank structure where altered, and some had different sized pegs for
locating the flywheel.
To be honest pictures would start to help some, I'm not working with these things like I used to and having to dig through my memory as to whats
what to figure out what you might have that I can't see or remember the exact change years. Things like head porting changed in production(
needing different intake/exhaust manifolds) and the pump mountings did to, with vacuum and mechanical governed pumps( also different intake again)
on the supers/5000 diesel so you might have the old style head on the 55 and the new style head/ manifolds on the super that don't fit if they are
not on the motor you are going to use. pump mounting bolts could be different to, again I can't remember whats what there,for bolt holes on one to
the other.
oh by the way the oil pan on a super and 55 is different to. I think 55 is the short oil pump with no pressure relief on it thats located in the
timing case, and the super is the pump with a relief valve built in to the pump. your sump won't fit the super as the part where the pump fits isn't
deep enough to bolt on over the oil pump with the relief valve on. Also the pin size for the wishbone is not the same either a supers bigger.
Regards Robert
J2 is on the head, simmes injector pump is the same as my 55[/b:2c5a80d203]
[b:a87f6ce3b9]been looking at both options, oring area#4 on the 55 is usable but still a lot of rust around it but still has its oring grove but not great - it gets better as you move forward, the other new major or whatever it is is like new inside, so undecided which way to go.[/b:a87f6ce3b9](quoted from post at 16:37:00 02/07/18) can you obtain new liners?
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