1957 Ford 850 carburetor

[DougL1257]

I have a 1957 ford 850. I want to put a new carburetor on. I’m starting to think the carburetor on it isn’t the original. It seems small where it connects to the intake. Someone has rounded the top of the nut because it was hitting the curve of the intake. But the breather hose connecting tube is sized for the smaller carburetor. Anyone able to point me in the direction of the correct carburetor.

 

[John P.]

Does it have a tag with the number on it?

 

[DougL1257]

Does it have a tag with the number on it?

The carburetor has a tag. Can’t make it out very well.

 

[Jim.ME]

The carburetor has a tag. Can’t make it out very well.

Looks like it would be a Marvel Schebler TSX 593. Some info online indicates it was used on the 850 and some others.

 

[Andy Wickiser]

I have a 1957 ford 850. I want to put a new carburetor on. I’m starting to think the carburetor on it isn’t the original. It seems small where it connects to the intake. Someone has rounded the top of the nut because it was hitting the curve of the intake. But the breather hose connecting tube is sized for the smaller carburetor. Anyone able to point me in the direction of the correct carburetor.

A 1957 Ford 850 would likely have an MS TSX- 706 as pictured below from my 1957 Ford 840. The tag even has 57 stamped on it, the TSX-706, and the Ford EAF part number.

 

[John P.]

The TSX593 is the original carb.
The TSX706 superseded it.
Either would be correct.
Your tractor may have a replacement manifold with the slots that can accept the earlier smaller bore carburetors used through 1957, or the later larger bore carburetor used 1958 and later.

 

[Jeff Hamilton]

Mine (860) has an original carb. I can say that there is no space for a conventional hex nut on the studs that hold it on. I have one nut that looks original and one highly modified. As far as the hose, I just had my air cleaner off and it was a job getting the hose over the carb snout. I finally heated the hose up. My hose fit nice on the tube that goes to the air cleaner, but appears too small for the carb. Sounds like you do have an original carb.

 

[Andy Wickiser]

The carburetor has a tag. Can’t make it out very well.

I took a closer look at your tag, it has a probable date code of 3 55 probably meaning March of 1955, and also the number 593, probably for TSX-593. This would be a correct original carb for a 1955 Ford 850. Are you sure your tractor is a 1957? If so the carb has probably been replaced with an earlier but completely compatible one. Below is a isolated shot of the tag.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

I have a 1957 ford 850. I want to put a new carburetor on. I’m starting to think the carburetor on it isn’t the original. It seems small where it connects to the intake. Someone has rounded the top of the nut because it was hitting the curve of the intake. But the breather hose connecting tube is sized for the smaller carburetor. Anyone able to point me in the direction of the correct carburetor.

What exactly seems small? The bolt hole spread? The Intake Bore? Your picture shows the Marvel-Schebler TSX-593 Carb, FORD p/n EAF-9510-G with the OEM brass ID Date Code Tag attached. The "3-55" is simply the date the carb manufactured. It is correct for the 800/900 GAS Models with the 172 CID/OHV Red Tiger. Good carbs. So if someone has boogered it up rounding things off and swapping wrong hoses and stuff, I advise to get correct parts and do it right. OEM parts always 1st choice to rebuild. New Cheena-made stuff usually junk today. Get 600/800 OP MANUAL and look at Fuel/Carb setup. Get right parts, get a rebuild, set to OEM specs initially, tweak if needed. Engine must be warmed up. Use your Proofmeter to ensures engine Idle Speed is 450-475 RPM. Make only 1/8" to 1/4" Jet Screw Turns at a time then WAIT til engine speed catches up. Should listen, observe, repeat a few time as needed. Governor may need to be adjusted. Consult I&T F0-20 Manual too. You can do this. If you want me to review/rebuild your Carb, email me. If y decide to buy a new one, I will buy your OEM TSX-593 unit.

Tim Daley (MI)

 

[showcrop]

What John P posted. The 850 carb and manifold are considerably smaller than those on the later 851. There was a problem with the manifold so the one in stock that was for an XX1 was put on. It fits no problem. Your carb is correct. I have an OEM manifold if you would like to go that route.

 

[Jeff Hamilton]

Regarding the "small" discussion, going back to Doug's original question, this is what he said - But the breather hose connecting tube is sized for the smaller carburetor - to which I made the observation that the same situation could be found on my tractor. The hard tube and rubber coupler is a smaller diameter than the intake mouth on the carb. One must work to stretch the rubber over the carb. Somehow the discussion went a little off the rails.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

Regarding the "small" discussion, going back to Doug's original question, this is what he said - But the breather hose connecting tube is sized for the smaller carburetor - to which I made the observation that the same situation could be found on my tractor. The hard tube and rubber coupler is a smaller diameter than the intake mouth on the carb. One must work to stretch the rubber over the carb. Somehow the discussion went a little off the rails.

OK =smaller unit supplanted

 

[DougL1257]

Thanks to everyone. Tim I think I will start with a new rebuild kit and go through the carburetor before I do a new one. If I end up getting a new carb I’ll contact you about the old one. The tractor was running good. The lift blew an o ring so was parked until I fixed it. It sat for maybe 6 months. Then will not start. I put a little gas directly into the cylinders and it fires right up for a second or two. It acts like it’s not pulling fuel into the I'm thinking either carburetor or maybe I need to check valve adjustment. Thanks for the information and help.

 

[Jeff Hamilton]

Doug - one more thought. My 860 had all kinds of trouble when there was a modern in-line fuel filter ahead of the carb. The filter, coupled with a "trap" in fuel line (like the trap under a sink) caused fuel delivery problems. Once I got rid of the filter and installed a new line the problems went away.

 

[showcrop]

Thanks to everyone. Tim I think I will start with a new rebuild kit and go through the carburetor before I do a new one. If I end up getting a new carb I’ll contact you about the old one. The tractor was running good. The lift blew an o ring so was parked until I fixed it. It sat for maybe 6 months. Then will not start. I put a little gas directly into the cylinders and it fires right up for a second or two. It acts like it’s not pulling fuel into the I'm thinking either carburetor or maybe I need to check valve adjustment. Thanks for the information and help.

The carb is not supposed to "pull" the fuel in. The fuel has to be in the line and into the float bowl of the carb. When you remove the plug at the bottom of the carb gas should run out continuously.

 

[Mad Farmer]

Thanks to everyone. Tim I think I will start with a new rebuild kit and go through the carburetor before I do a new one. If I end up getting a new carb I’ll contact you about the old one. The tractor was running good. The lift blew an o ring so was parked until I fixed it. It sat for maybe 6 months. Then will not start. I put a little gas directly into the cylinders and it fires right up for a second or two. It acts like it’s not pulling fuel into the I'm thinking either carburetor or maybe I need to check valve adjustment. Thanks for the information and help.

If the tractor is going to sit shut off the fuel at the tank and drain the carb or run it dry.

If you let E10 sit in the cast iron carb it will pick up moisture and turn to snot and/or start rusting the bottom of the carb bowl.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

Doug - one more thought. My 860 had all kinds of trouble when there was a modern in-line fuel filter ahead of the carb. The filter, coupled with a "trap" in fuel line (like the trap under a sink) caused fuel delivery problems. Once I got rid of the filter and installed a new line the problems went away.

Myth # 100 - You don't need any aftermarket in-line fuel filter on these old FORDs. Keep up with SOP PM. Keep OEM filters and screens cleaned often per manual.

Your Mileage May Vary,
Tim Daley (MI)

 

[DougL1257]

More help please. I rebuilt the old carb completely. Made sure all the pathways were open. I have good fuel flow to the carb. Good suction. Good fire at the plug, which are new. Timing is good. 150 psi compression on all 4 cylinders, that’s cold. Tractor will run for a second if I put a little fuel in the cylinders. But it will not start. I wondered if it may be a valve adjustment issue. But with the good suction at the carburetor IDK. Any advice? I also threatened it with a hammer.

 

[pomester]

More help please. I rebuilt the old carb completely. Made sure all the pathways were open. I have good fuel flow to the carb. Good suction. Good fire at the plug, which are new. Timing is good. 150 psi compression on all 4 cylinders, that’s cold. Tractor will run for a second if I put a little fuel in the cylinders. But it will not start. I wondered if it may be a valve adjustment issue. But with the good suction at the carburetor IDK. Any advice? I also threatened it with a hammer.

Tighten the main jet adjustment needle till it stops and back out 1.5 turns. Do the same with the idle needle. Tractor should start and run, this is a good place to start dialing things in. How are you manipulating the throttle and choke?

Frustrating, but don't do anything rash, valve adjustment is not the problem.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

The carburetor has a tag. Can’t make it out very well.

That is a Marvel-Schebler TSX-593 Model Carb - standard on an 800. The 3 55 is simply the DATE of manufacture - MAR 1955. M/S had the brass ID DATE TAGS, aftermarket & clones don't.

A rebuild is good. Adjust Jets and settings to OEM Specs per manual. Leave them alone for now. 1st thing to make carb adjustments is to get the engine warmed up first. Initial Throttle setting; Proofmeter Required: Handle in closed position, turn STOP screw until engine idle speed is 450-475 RPM. Leave it. With Main Adjusting Needle IN fully, turn screw OUT 1-1/4" Turns and leave it.

The problem guys have when trying to adjust a carb is they make way too large turns on the screws and fail to wait for the engine speed to catch up. Only make 1/8" to 1/14" turns at at a time. Then WAIT a few minutes for engine speed to catch up. Listen to engine idle. Note any sputtering or power surges/losses. You will need to make several attempts to get the carb right - you just don't set screws once and leave them. Use caution when reaching in with hands and screwdriver to adjust - the engine will be HOT!


Your Mileage May Vary,
Tim Daley (MI)