1959 Case 211B Engine Rebuild

[DB1991]

Hi Everyone,

It has been a while since I have updated progress on my 59 211B. I just got the engine back from the machine shop 1 month ago (after they had it for 10 months!!), and then I had to get a new pressure plate since they couldn't find mine.

Check old posts here for background info:

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1357602

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.co...t=15&sid=22b57227ac20b5f0f2db0a5e4f93e01b

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=8727895#8727895

Anyways.

What my problem ended up being was a spun #4 due to loss of oil pressure. At some point in the past, this tractor lost oil pressure due to the oil pump gear breaking off from the shaft. Whoever owned it at that time decided to try to farmer fix it instead of buying a new oil pump. This lead to another loss of oil pressure, and a headache for me.

Here are some pictures so far:

Engine Teardown:

Bent Connecting Rod:

They had to weld up #3 and 4 rod bearings to then grind them back to spec.

Coated pistons:

Machined Deck:

Machined Cylinder Heads:

I bought a new throwout bearing, clutch, and pressure plate.

Getting the Engine in:

Got the front end back together:

Got the fan and alternator installed:

This is where it sits right now until I have some free time next week.

The questions I have now are:

What oil do I use for break-in? The company that rebuilt the engine told me SAE 30W and to also buy some Zinc additive. I think that is for after the first oil change, and that the engine needs to be broken in with "factory break-in oil". Does anyone know what that is/where I would be able to get some?

Can I just use a 50/50 mix of normal ethylene glycol for the cooling system?

Thanks for the help!

 

[Stephen Newell]

First chance you get thank the engine rebuilder for loosing your pressure plate. You don't want to go through that much work to use a used pressure plate.

I use regular car antifreeze in my 59 210B. Don't know of any reason it wouldn't work.

The rebuild is just like a newly rebuilt engine in a car. Change the oil very soon after you get it going to flush out any bits of metal that might be in the engine and change the oil more than normal there after the first year. The engine was designed for straight 30 weight. I don't have experience with the zinc additive so I won't comment on that.

 

[tomturkey]

This may or may not be of help. I recently purchased a used running engine. It had some sluge build up so I was very aggressive about cleaning pan top of heads and down thru the cam push rod area. My last cleaning action was to hook a garden spryer up to the oil pressure line port. I pumped transmission fluid back thru the engine til it was running out the oil pump all mains and rods. I was very impressed as to how that worked. I've read on this site of people doing the garden sprayer thing to get oil to all the rod and main bearing after a rebuild and pre start-up. If I ever rebuild one, I think this seems like a good idea to get lubrication into all those bearings. It works very well. Just an idea that you may wish to do. gobble

 

[Stephen Newell]

Referring to the Case manual, you use 30w oil when air temperatures are 70 or above. 20w oil when temperatures are 32 to 70 degrees. 10w oil when temperatures are -20 to 32 degrees and 5w when temperatures are below -20. Break-in would be for a new motor, not an overhauled motor which would probably need more frequent changes. It says change oil after the first 20 hours of operation. From then normal conditions change oil every 100 hours and change the filter every 200 hours. It also says if you start and stop the engine a lot or run the tractor at especially high or low temperatures change the oil more frequently to prevent sludge.

Of course the manual was made before multi-grade oils were made. I wouldn't see the harm in using 10w-30 oil or for that matter synthetic oil.

 

[kevinthefixer]

Do NOT use synthetic oil for break-in! Rings will never seat properly. First half-dozen oil changes, standard oil.

 

[mEl]

DB, Looking at your pictures I see you had the deck trued up, a great move, I of course cannot see if it was
decked with the sleeves installed, if it was, by doing so they have destroyed the sleeve standout which should be a minimum of .002 . It may never be an issue and I hope not but the block should have been decked then the sleeve lands redone to give sleeve standout. Just follow good mechanical practices, warm the engine, retorque by loosening one bolt at a time and retorqueing to specs and then reset the valves, my concern may never be an issue.

 

[DB1991]

So my gameplan is to use normal 50/50 antifreeze in the cooling system.

For the oil, I think I am going to use this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIrou_lPiW4gIVzsDACh2Azg-dEAQYAiABEgJWKPD_BwE

for the first ~10 hours. Then I will drain and use SAE30 with zinc additive from then on.

Does anyone have any input on what the break-in schedule on these engines should be? Idle for a few minutes to verify oil pressure, then do some moderate RPM with no load? Work it straight away to seat the rings?

Thanks!

 

[Jeffs211b]

Hi db1991 Im in process of rebuilding a case 211b engine and would like to contact you about your rebuild to maybe get some advice on mine thanks