Ford 172 diesel squealing noise, no oil pressure, loose harmonic balancer bolt, and white smoke out of breather

[Woodtractor1]

It sputters a lot

 

[leroy in ne]

Apply a little choke, if it smooths out some that is an indication of dirty carb or if it has a load adjustment open it a little. Condition of points? possible cracked or carbon tracked distributor cap? Suggest doing diagnostics not throwing parts at it. I ran soil sampling drill rigs that used the 172 many years ago and they always were smooth and reliable. I'm sure you washed down before installing, is the inside if the distributor cap completely dry or does it have moisture letting it cross fire.

 

[Woodtractor1]

I didn't pressure wash it before I installed it. I leaned it out slightly and it runs pretty well now. I'll check the distributor and points tomorrow. It's been a long week with this loader/engine

 

[Janicholson]

It sputters a lot

Sputtering can be fuel or ignition. If the points have not been cleaned or adjusted, do that first. Then adjust the carb for best running. Please describe the sputtering (or shorten the video). Jim

 

[Woodtractor1]

Yet, another question. The gas engine has a bolt instead of a temperature sensor in the head. I pulled the sensor from my diesel head but it is not the same diameter as the gas head. Does anyone have a part number I can order that would be the smaller diameter? Thanks!

 

[Woodtractor1]

As woreout points out and I reiterated that sediment bowl is an actual fuel pump. If you are pushing fuel through it with an electric pump you are setting yourself up for a failure. The internal seals of those occasionally fail. When that happens even with no electric pump pressuring it they can leak gas into the crankcase. The electric pump would just increase this risk. Sometimes when this happens the gas oil mix in the crankcase gives off enough vapor that the combustion in the cylinders will cause an internal explosion and rip the tin oil pan and valve cover loosed from the engine. Either the electric or mechanical pump should be used by itself. Wiring the pump to always run with the key is fine. In automobiles electric fuel pumps rely on the engine to be running to continue to operate after a brief timed start up cycle. The main reason is so in the case of an accident that compromises the fuel system the pump is not running to pump a gas puddle that may ignite.

Just to confirm, I have the electric fuel pump bypassing the mechanical fuel pump and I plan to remove the mechanical pump and block it off.

 

[used red MN]

Not sure about Fords but the most common thread size for the port into the head is 1/2” NPT.
1/2” NPT gauge adapter bushing
Or if smaller a
3/8” NPT gauge adapter bushing
These are just examples any auto store worth their salt should have these. Note the actual gauge bulb retainer nut threads are 5/8 - 18 UNF.

 

[Woodtractor1]

Thanks for all the help with this engine dilemma turned engine swap. The gas engine seems to run great. I just ordered the new water pump and a thermostat. I also need to plumb in the oil pressure gauge to the engine block and get the temp sensor hooked up. Again, couldn't have done it without your help. Thank you!