1963 Ford 2000 Electrical Problem - Please Help..!!

[Beavonthebayou]

Hi Y'all,

I have a 1963 Ford 2000 gasser, converted to 12V w/electronic ignition. It's been running pretty good, but a day or so ago, I went out to start it, and nothing...an occasional click from the solenoid, as I wiggled different wires or the battery ground. It seems as if I have a grounding issue somewhere, and I'm trying to figure it out...any help would be much appreciated.

OK, here is what I've found so far.

1. Key off - I have 12.63V from the battery, to the hot side of the key to the top post of the solenoid, to the alternator, no voltage to the switched side of the key or downstream.
2. If I test the unconnected lead from the switched side of the key, with the key on, I show 12.63V
3. If I connect the switched side of the key to the post that connects it to the terminal on the solenoid (I believe the S terminal), with everything else connected, and I turn the key to ON, the solenoid may or may not click, and nothing happens when I depress the starter button, but it seems like the voltage in the system disappears from my multimeter
4. HOWEVER, for a while, if I switched the key on, the starter would automatically start cranking, and the tractor would start, but the starter would continue running until the key was switched off. I disassembled the wires, and when I put it back together, it wasn't doing that anymore.
5. Just before I came inside, I connected just the switched side from the key and the lead to the S terminal, left off the lead from the coil, switched on the key, and for a while had 12.63V to the top post, to the S terminal, to the bottom post, and to the starter, but no cranking at all, and depressing the starter button didn't do anything.
6. I know the starter spins, and cranks the engine just fine.
7. The tractor doesn't have any lights or extra stuff hooked up

Somewhere I must have something grounding or shorting, but I'm just not sure where.

It does have some fresh parts, including a brand new ignition switch, and a new solenoid (I've tried two different new ones, one from NAPA, and one from TSC). The battery cables are pretty tired, and I do have some new ones, but I decided that since I was getting voltage, I might be able to hold off replacing those right now.

Thanks in advance for any help. I really appreciate it..!!

Joel in Louisiana

 

[Larry NCKS]

In its OEM configuration, the switched lead needs to go to the I terminal on your solenoid. Your starter button should connect to the S terminal.

Having said that, there are two different 12V solenoids. One activates by completing the B+ (hot) loop. The other by completing the B- (ground) loop.

You need to need to make certain you're using the latter type solenoid.

 

[bob-in-va]

Hi,

I am in the middle of a similar problem! Since it has been working, I assume it all to be connected properly. There are two scenarios; either the starter is trying to draw current or it is not. I assume the solenoid is mounted on the block, not the starter and recommend the following:

1) With the key to "on" (without yet engaging the starter), put your + voltmeter lead to the input side of the solenoid and verify +12V to the heavy solenoid lead. I would use the frame of the starter where it bolts to the block for your ground lead, since that is the circuit you are troubleshooting.
2) Activate the switch to engage the starter. If the solenoid clicks, it is getting +12V to the light gauge lead and should be switching the +12V to the starter side of the solenoid (heavy lead on output side of solenoid). If the +12V on the heavy lead drops significantly (but not to zero) this indicates the starter motor is drawing current (it may or may not spin while drawing current, normally it should). Jump to step 6. If it remains at +12V, the starter is not drawing current or the solenoid is not pulling in. Go to step 3.
3) If the solenoid does not click, Jump to step 5. If the solenoid clicks and the voltage on the heavy lead remains at +12V, move the + meter lead directly to the starter post, not the terminal, but directly on the threaded post. Activate the switch to engage the starter and see if +12V appears at the starter terminal. If +12V is not present, jump to steps 4 & 5. If +12V is present on the terminal, the starter is not drawing current. This may be due to a poor connection between the armature and the brushes, or perhaps the ground lead from the battery to the frame. (Other electrical devices may work OK with a poor ground connection). If the ground checks OK, tap on the starter with a hard plastic hammer head or screwdriver while engaging the starter, monitoring the meter to see if the voltage fluctuates (the starter may even try to spin). If the starter now spins or the voltage fluctuates, the starter is trying to draw current. It is fairly simple to disassemble the starter and clean up the armature and check the brushes and spring tension (Consult YouTube). I am not sure if you can find a brush kit anymore. A new starter is ~$100.
4) If there is +12V on the output side of the solenoid (heavy lead) but not on the threaded starter terminal, there is likely a bad crimp or bad connection in the heavy leads somewhere, either +12V or the ground lead. This is not always easy to find using the ohmmeter, you may need to trace the presence/absence of voltage along the heavy lead circuit while the switch is activated to engage the starter. May need to get the spouse involved to hold the starter switch in position as you follow the circuit connections with a meter.
5) If the solenoid does not click, then check for +12V on the light gauge +12V wire to the solenoid while the switch is held to engage the starter. If not there, trace the light gauge +12V wire back to the starter switch with a meter to find where you lose it. The +12V should appear on the light gauge solenoid wire to pull in the solenoid when the switch is active to engage the starter. If not, it could be the starter switch.
6) If the starter is drawing current and the engine is not turning over, there may be be insufficient current available to turn the starter. Be sure your battery has adequate capacity and all your connections are good, may even parallel the existing connections with jumper cables. Alternatively, there may be a mechanical binding between the starter and flywheel. Try rocking the engine back and forth slightly (In neutral) with a wrench on the crank or water pump to see if it turns freely.

Not sure what to say next, depending what you find after these steps. Good luck.