1965 4020

[Anonymous-0]

Found one coming up on an auction in a couple of days. Need another chore tractor. Hay cutting, light tillage, hauling manure, etc. Familiar with late model side consoles but not early ones. Are these good tractors? What should I check for? Also what is this tractor worth? 6000 hours, diesel, synchro, really good paint, good tires, single hyd. Any input on this subject would be greatly appreciated!

 

[4020_1966]

I like the early models, dad has a 64, and I a 66. The basic tractor is unchanged really. Pulls the same, uses the same cabs etc. The 64 and some early 65 had different style injectors than the 66+ (equals small change in the head). I have around 6500 hours on mine and it is still in great shape. I had brakes done a year ago to be safe. They said I had about 50% of the pads left. Check to see how much clutch adjustment is left and if it has a new clutch or not. Just move everything and see what ones are "loose". Floppy scv control lever means that has been used a lot. Was it a loader tractor? That is a lot of clutch wear (dry clutch). Check the filter screen inside the transmission case to check for brass or iron filings in the mesh (brakes are worn out and down to the brass rivets and eating the brake just like in a car). You will lose some of his oil checking that so replace it when you are done. How is the wear pattern on the front tires? The front axle cast iron can get worn and not hold the axles straight and eat the inside rib and wear out the tires fast on the road (I do have that problem). See if it has the heavy duty front axle or the lighter one like the 4010 had. I have the heavy front and dad the lighter one. I have 2 scv and dad has 1. Only time that is an issue is planting and round baling hay. He runs an extension hose from his loader control valve joystick to run the extra stuff if needed. We both have YAR cabs now. His got it new and I just got one on mine. I don't like the 24volt wiring and rewired both of ours to 12v and we are happy with it. I payed 13k for mine a few years ago with a 158 loader and bale spike thrown in. Opinions will vary on how much its worth. If its in good shape, synchronizers are good and it doesn't pop out of gear (drive it and shift through all gears, especially reverse up to 3 and 5, some will pop out that way but not 1 to 3 or 2 to 5) etc 7k to 10k is not unreasonable. If it has oil leaks down both sides of the block and the main pump is chattering on start up when you raise the arms and other things (anti freeze out the weep holes in the block etc) then I would probably leave it. Open the kick panel and see how the wiring looks there and under the hook near generator etc. Crappy old heat cracked wiring is a pain. I made my own wiring harness and completely rewired mine the way I wanted it and it is working out much better than factory. Not to expensive just takes some time to do that if you need it. Also if it has an idiot light for oil pressure take a manual gauge and unscrew one of the side ports on the crank and see what the cold and hot oil pressure runs. I would also make sure the charging light is working.

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 00:25:10 06/16/13) Check the filter screen inside the transmission case to check for brass or iron filings in the mesh (brakes are worn out and down to the brass rivets and eating the brake just like in a car). You will lose some of his oil checking that so replace it when you are done.

4020_1966
You must be mighty quick checking the sump screen to just lose a little hyd oil unless you have a shop vacuum sucking on the filler tube.

 

[Tx Jim]

Super 50
Check clutch pedal,drawbar & 3 pt balls for wear. Main differences besides what 4020_1966 stated between early & late 4020's are the location of hyd control levers,24V vs 12V elect. & scv's on later ones have no hyd lines under floorboard(valve & breakaway coupler built together on later models). Rd vs oval muffler.

 

[coonie minnie]

Look at it this way... I have a 1972 furrow magazine describing the 4020 as a classic while still in production. It wouldn't have earned that name if the early ones were no good, right?

Compared to the console models, the controls may be a little more awkward, such as PTO, hyd, etc.

From a dependability standpoint, old ones are just as good or better. Injection pumps are superior, and many consoles have been converted to the more dependable early style
pump.

PTO clutch on the syncro models is a little less complicated, as it is manually controlled instead of hydraulic. The hyd control on later ones could leak, soaking the clutch in oil.

The 64s are a little different from the rest... different injectors, no diff lock, wiring a little different, key switch instead of start button, etc. 64 and 65 have oil bath air cleaners. 66-68 are similar, but some running changes.

All of 'em are what sunk IHC. That ought to say something...

Pick a good one.

 

[Kent Petersen]

the small pump you are knocking was not that bad it was only used on 69 and 70 models 71 and 72 used newer larger pump much like the older db pump

 

[David G]

We have a 1966, it is a great tractor.

They get hard to start when cold as the valves wear, but will still run. Look for excessive leakage out the block weep holes. A little weepage seems normal. The 24V charging system gives trouble, a lot have been converted to 12V.

 

[Mike M]

Sold one in ohio for $8,500 power shift and engine was overhauled not to long ago.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Most synchros have worn synchronizers.

 

[Mitch D]

Hello sir I have an 806 for sale also, just throwing that out there...... Trade you for weights and quick hitches

 

[Anonymous-0]

Mitch, I have enough boat anchors. Don't need your 806!