1967 JD 3020 12V Starter Problems

[Anonymous-0]

Over the past number of years the starter on my 1967 JD 3020 12V gas has been slowly failing. First it began when there was extreme hot or cold temps and the solenoid would not engage the starter (solenoid would not click), and I'd have to tap the starter with a hammer while holding down the ignition button. It progressed to the point that it rarely engages, and the starter has to be severely rapped with something heavy. Today, I finally could not get any action out of it, period. Should I replace both the starter and solenoid, or have them worked over? I've done my own engine repairs to the 3020 before, but I have a tough time dealing with and diagnosing electrical system problems. Thanks.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Sounds as if the solenoid plunger has grown a bit from rust. It might be possible to clean it up, it might be more profitable to replace it. The problem might be in the wiring and the starter pushbutton. My '68 4020 has an auxiliary relay in the circuit to get more power to the solenoid coil, but that won't fix a rusty solenoid plunger or Bendix.

My local auto electric shop rebuilt the starter for my 4020 and put on a new solenoid and Bendix for $90 a couple years ago. That auxiliary relay or the solenoid stuck on and the starter spinning from the engine threw the windings from the armature slots so it needed a whole new armature.

I always ask for a new Bendix, new brushes, and new bearingss when I take a starter in and so far that's made a fine starter.

The guys in the automotive electric shop KNOW how to do starters right the first time and do them fast enough the local shops beats the tractor parts places on price a whole bunch. I've had three done and they've all worked fine.

I had a 6 VW beetle that acted just like your 3020, and it was a wiring problem. That auxiliary relay reduced the current the starter button circuit had to handle and so the starter worked better.

Gerald J.

 

[JDemaris]

Starters that respond to getting hammered on usually have bad-brush contacts, bad solenoid contacts, or both.
The solenoid is made with reversible parts inside so you can often fix it without buying anything. Rebuild shops rarely replace them - just patch them up.

 

[Anonymous-0]

You are very to have a repair shop that does good work. Tons of replies on this site have had starter or gen in shop and stillhave problems when a rebuilt guranteed would be so much the better as you also get a new bendix. Then they get 12v crazy and spend more money and then cant make that work.

 

[Tom43]

Hook a voltmeter to the motor terminal of the starter. If you get a 12 volt reading and the solenoid doesn't click , you most likely have bad brushes, weak brush holder springs, or an open bar on the commutator. Remember the pull in winding of the solenoid grounds through the brushes and then through the armature to ground.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I always demand new solenoids, brushes, and bushings with each rebuild. I pay for them too. But just once.

Gerald J.

 

[JDemaris]

I'm not sure what the "paying once" means exactly. Nothing last forever regardless if new or repaired right.
There are only a few actual wear items inside a solenoid assembly. When repaired properly, it is every bit as good as new.
And, when NOT done right - it's not any better or worse then anything else done wrong.
You can buy a solenoid repair kit for $8 with new contacts and cap and it can work just fine.
If the solenoid was never done before - you can often reverse the main-stud contact, reverse the rotating disk contact, and it will still be as good as new with zero new parts. That is part of the design.