Pullin'Red

New User
Fellas,

I am posting this message to see what it is going to take to get my current M to 200hp or more. Currently has an oversize kit, high dome pistons, Denny"s Carb, extensive head work, electronic ignition, balanced & blueprinted. Currently can turn up to 4000rpms and makes power from Lunatti Cam between 2800 - 3800. I need to increase my Ci"s, possibly different head, carb, etc.? What are your thoughts? Appreciate the help in advance.
 
4.875"x7.5" may get you in the ballpark, there is atleast one "M" bigger than that(5.125x8?????). With this big of an engine, I dont see you turning it the kind of RPM you are currently running.

I doubt the Denny's carb is doing anything for you. Define "extensive head work". What head are you currently running? I think some of the bigger M's are using a 7700 JD combine carburetor.

If you really want 200HP, you are going to spend A BUNCH of money.
 
(quoted from post at 00:39:35 05/21/08) 4.875"x7.5" may get you in the ballpark, there is atleast one "M" bigger than that(5.125x8?????). With this big of an engine, I dont see you turning it the kind of RPM you are currently running.

I doubt the Denny's carb is doing anything for you. Define "extensive head work". What head are you currently running? I think some of the bigger M's are using a 7700 JD combine carburetor.

If you really want 200HP, you are going to spend A BUNCH of money.

4000RPM's could make a big difference. Aren't most of the "big M's" running at 20-30% over rated?
 
You just need a few magic springs from ChadBS. Maybe drill out the main jet on your carb and a smaller venturi, 27 or 29. And the most important thing, have ChadBS put it on his magic dyno. 200 to 250 all day long.
 
your not going to turn stupid RPM's ,20% to 30% RPM's, 5.25 Bore with 8" stroke. Big money Call Gary Baker in Michigan.
 
Depends what you're trying to do. The 5.25 x 8 motors are 20-30% over rpms. The crank can't handle 4000 and neither can the block at that size. Also, an M motor that big is Div. 4 territory because the blocks are dry. It would overheat in Div. 3. If you're not running in a speed limit class, then have at it. Most of the top Div. 3 M's are 4 3/8 x 7. And they still break the crank, eventually...

FWIW...

CPR
 
WOW!!! 250!! Those springs are more magic than we all thought!!!! WOW!! 250!! how many pedals would I have to add to your pedal tractor to get ya 200 hp? fastest peddler in the hoosier state ya would be now!
 
I am only running the Denny's Manifold currently. The carb has a venturi from an 806, I believe and the head is a 350 head, polished & ported, chevy small block valves and springs w/ custom stems. The biggest problem that I am having now is there is very little lug and low end torque. A strong G can outpull me when they lug down. Not that that is a big suprise,that is the JD's claim to fame. JD should change their company catch phrase to "Speed for show & Luug for Doe".
 
Most classes that I run are open and non-speed limit. The tractor is very competitive as it is, but without building good speed to carry thru the end, strong JD G's lug right by, not by much, but in tractor pulling it only takes an inch.
 
(quoted from post at 10:04:10 05/22/08) I am only running the Denny's Manifold currently. The carb has a venturi from an 806, I believe and the head is a 350 head, polished & ported, chevy small block valves and springs w/ custom stems. The biggest problem that I am having now is there is very little lug and low end torque. A strong G can outpull me when they lug down. Not that that is a big suprise,that is the JD's claim to fame. JD should change their company catch phrase to "Speed for show & Luug for Doe".

So... you're wanting to swap out camshafts in the middle of the pull???? You can have high end or you can have torque at the bottom end, take your pick, you don't get it both ways unless you've invented variable valve timing/lift for a Farmall M.
 
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