2000 post inspection report Plus questions

souNdguy

Well-known Member
Ok.. went and smoked the 2000 over at lunch today.

owner is a real old fella.. his daughter was the one helping me with the tractor.

couldn't find the key, so we hot wired it using a donor battery set in the tray.

would fire.. pulled the distrib cap.. points look good, pulled plugs... fouled big time.. cleaned them with a business card and got her to fire after a little dinking.

holley carb is running a lil lean.. have to use about half choke or she stumbles on acceleration, and stalls out in 5th or 6th gear.

question.. where's the power adjust needle on the holley carb? I'm familiar with MS. but not them holley's.. so far for the test drive i just used choke.

after we got it started, clutch was stuck..

unit has sat 4-6 months apparrently.

I bumped it over with the hotwire in 6th gear with the clutch blocked and she popped loose on the first bump. pto sems to work fine, and hyd seemed to work good. steering is decent with only a lil play. she ran thru the gears fine.

as the owner stated, one of the rad hose leaks.. some rust under the hose has bubbled up, so rad was low to that point.

crankcase oil creamed up a bit, so am guessing it's been collecting moisture from setting... as there was no smoke from the muffler.. or steam.... I specifically looked for steam from the muffler after seeing low rad and oil that was emulsified...

gen didn't charge and wouldn't after polerization, even when full fielded and meter on armature. so will need gen rebuilt and maybee regulator as well.

Old man had to go to a dr appt so she took him, left me out in the yard with the tractor and said to test drive it or whatever ( trusting people! )

In any case.. I left a letter attached to the machine sugesting that they drain the oil, flush it, and toss in some new oil and change the spin on filter so it can be ran / demonstrated and thus checked to see if it accumulates water in the oil.. or if that was just from setting.

since I will likely be going back over to look at this tractor again and help the daughter get it checked out , I have a few questions.. since i'm not familiar with the 3 cyl jobs.

what spin on oil filter does it use

how many qts oil in crankcase

also, i used my meter to make sure the oil sender 'opened' when engine started, and 'closed' when engine stopped since we had no dash gauges since couldn't find the key.. in any case.. I doubt the gauges or lamps worked.. dash don't look to be in great condition.

if i buy it, I will be offering less than the 2800$ asked. If it does run out good with no more water in the oil I'm thinking 2500 as i will be sinking 90$ in the gen, 25 in the reg, and another 15 or so into a switch, plus whatever rad hoses cost.

as i noticed yesterday.. one brake works decently.. one works but is a lil stiff.. not sure what issue that is till I get into it if i get the tractor.. maybee needs lube.. or springs.. etc.

comments and filter/oil info ??

thanks

soundguy
 
just got a call back.. they are changing the oil and filter in the am, and I'll stop back by after lunch for a looksee see where it goes from there.

still interested in comments and info from previous post.

thanks

soundguy
 
I'd suggest you leave it there... unless you really want to learn what that generator is all about.

Seriously... water in the sump and low coolant? I think I'd connect those two dots pretty quick. Probably a head or cylinder issue. With the other list of stuff you know to be wrong and the fact that it's only half a step above an 8N, I think I'd leave it there unlees it could be had for about a grand.
Seriously.

Rod
 
No power adjustment on outside. Uses diaphram and plunger setup. oil filter fram ph8 or equivelent and 6 quarts oil. If oem switch all keyed allike.Dont you have a 65 up tractor use its key.
 
The gens I've been into before.., even the lucas that's ones actually the least of my thoughts.

The water issue.. is a prime concern. If I had not seen the leaky hose myself.. I'd be even more suspicious.. still I'm waiting to see it on clean flushed oil, and run time before I pull the wallet out.

So far I know it is not blowing steam out the exhaust.. but that doesn't mean, as you imply.. that there is not water getting into the block / head anyway.. but perhaps not the cyl.

Key's ben swapped to non oem.. so my lucas keys won't fit it.

carb is a particular issue too... I've heard very little good about them.. and this one is running lean.. choked makes it run what I considder 'normal' based on other 2000 / 3000 I've driven before.. If there are no real adjustments on it.. that may mean a zenith carb is in it's future.

I wanna see that oil again after some runtime hours.. if it clouds back up I'll pass.

soundguy
 
Do a compression check!,,, will tell alot about the condition are the unknown

The 3 cyl's will perform well with low compression numbers BUT sooner are latter its gonna cost ya

Low compression numbers do seam to make'em hard to start and do like a little choke till they warm up
 
(quoted from post at 03:27:15 07/15/09) Do a compression check!,,, will tell alot about the condition are the unknown

The 3 cyl's will perform well with low compression numbers BUT sooner are latter its gonna cost ya

Low compression numbers do seam to make'em hard to start and do like a little choke till they warm up

Errr I ment alot'a choke
 
Pull the rad cap and have a good hard look in there. If that's black and frothy you've no doubt got head issues.
I've never seen one of these engines make steam. That said, I haven't seen them leak to the bottom either. I've had several head gaskets leak and every one here has charged the cooling system.
I suppose if I'd neglected them further it would have gotten in the bottom... so I'd really look hard at that.

I don't think I'd worry much about the carb.
Probably a cleaning and gasket set would cure it unless it needs a power valve.
I've never had that particular Holley apart but I've had Holley 4 barrells apart. There's nothing particularly special about them. Clean them and set them up to spec and they should work...

You know the generator would be of no concern to me either. It would go straight in the scrap bin without so much as unpacking the multimeter.

Rod
 
I think it's 7 quarts with a filter change... my choice of filters is NH 300 Dual or CarQuest 85775 (ph8a is the fram version)
 
I'm with Rod, I'd pass unless it were very cheap. If it were a 3 cyl diesel or 8 speed or had some other advantage maybe, but you already own better, more efficient versions of what this tractor will do. I love my 3 cyl 4600 diesel, but honestly, I'm not a huge fan of the roughness of the 3 cyl. When given the choice, I use the 5600 which has a much smoother feel and sound.
 
Rad was clean, no oily sheen or froth.

I'm not in any hurry to get this machine. It's on my way into town. I told the owner I'd stop by now and again and if it is still for sale, and the oil stays clean.. I'll make an offer. Gonna go by later today just for a looksee.. but for now.. will just wait and se how it goes.. a someone else pointed out.. I'm not hurting for a tractor.

I know the genny wouldn't bother you either way.. your more than qualified to rebuild one though i know you'd just swap it for a 10si and be done with it. ( By the way.. the gen on my 5000 I rebuilt?? year before?? ( CRS ) with the new non stock regulator is doing fine :) )

soundguy
 
For now, I am, unless it is demonstrated that it is not dumping water into the oil.

might revisit it later on but for now am setting on my hands..

soundguy
 
She'll actually start with no choke, and run 'normally' in gears 1-2-3-4-r1

In r2, 5 and 6, she wants about 1/3 to 1/2 choke to run 'normally'. on a ms carb.. I'd say it was lean.. am guessing same situation here, as she will pop and or stumble on fast acceleration or a tall gear if choke is not pulled out some.

I did the non scientific hand over carb mouth test and she will suck yer palm right down fast like a 2$.. er.. well anyway.. i know that's not a compression test.. but it's not bad either. starts easy.. just tht water in the oil issue bothers me.. carb only slightly bothers me as that's a rebuild or repalce issue.. same as the gen.. which is easy job..

untill I know she's not drinking water I'm not buying her..

soundguy
 
Probably a carb/tune up issue,,, mine acts the same but have not had the time to dig into it,,, the few Holley's I have messed with I had to make my own gasket that goes tween the metering well and top air horn,,, the gaskets in the kits are miss cut are just plain junk.

On mine if you choke it to start it floods EZ,,, on a few worn out ones I have messed with they need all the choke you can give it so I spec the compression on the one you are look'n at is OK.

One pattern I have noticed on a worn out engine,,, you have one shot to fire it off cold,,, if you miss it and can not keep it going then you have to hit it with a shot of ether
 
if its oil is creamy or white looking.. you got a blown head gasket or cracked head or block... normal moisture will not cream up.

be very careful!!!

plugs fouled??


walk away.. very very quickly.. its a $500 parts tractor... sorry...
 
I agree.. this one, I'm guessing has good compression. i fired her off many times using my hi-tech hot wire and solenoid jumper :) never used choke to fire her off.. though, did use it to run her around the parking lot in high gear. engine sounds good.. no odd noises.. idles low.. etc.. even though dh isn't working, i used a test lamp and my meter to make sure oil sender was opening after start.. so i at least know she has some oil pressure..

boy.. lots of issues with these holley carbs i see in the archives.

so far.. the water in the oil is my one min concern.

changing a dash or key switch.. rebuilding the genny.. and rebuilding or swapping the carb is just simple screwdriver and wrench time... the water issue... might be a crack.. just waiting to see how that one pans out.

soundguy
 
Plugs were fouled.. but cleaned up with nothing more thn business card.. sme card i used to pull thru the points.

oil was dark brown when i checked it before starting.. though showed just a lil high on the stick... obviously that was water setting in the bottom of the pan I now know... didn't take much. In any case.. i told the owner he needed to drain, flush, and change the oil and filter and then run her to see if it creamed back up if he wanted to sell the tractor. AFAIK.. tht's what the are doing. I'll stop by and check on them.. they seem like decent people. If the thing will run without creaming the oil after some run time.. I might think about making an offer. For some reason 3 cyl machines don't come up for sale here very often.. I would like one.. but won't buy this one if it creams the oil... that's a block or head or head gasket issue..and with no steam.. and no creamy radiator..well.. could be coincidence and 3 months of daily florida rain, and some water made it into there.. or it could be a crack... only time will tell.

soundguy
 
Last two 3000's i seen go at auction ,,, $1850,,, OK tractor no PS 4 speed needed rear rims bad (flat tires)

$3250 PS, 4speed nuttin wrong with it,,, so good it was scary
 
On mine I changed it to the newer style cluster and the cam driven tach... which required a different cluster, cable, drive, oil pump shaft and temp sender.
Given that all but the temp sender was trashed on mine and I had a used drive and oil pump shaft, I didn't think it a big deal.
Keep in mind that this ONLY WORKS on post '72 engines that have a welch plug over the oil pump drive shaft. If it has a threaded plug you can't fit the drive...

The other options are a Delco 10si that has been converted with a tach drive. I beleive those are available on this site.
You can also go with an externally regulated 10DN that is equipped with a tach drive. Those are available off the shelf from NAPA, Wilson and probably other rebuilders.
I'm sure if you were handy you could also add the tach drive to an off the shelf 10si from NAPA. Some day I'm going to try that just for kicks...
That opens you up to the world of 10 dollar junk yard alt's.

Rod
 

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