2006 Ford Expedition help

[Hobo,NC]

Which lead to this reply.

Hobo.. You didn’t ask a question. You wrote two sentences/statements ending the second with a period then placed a lone “?” after them and closed with answer that. What is he supposed to answer? Many YTers get all wrapped up when you make a spelling or grammar correction, in my opinion a grammar error has caused this lack of conveying your request.
If you would have placed “Do these scenarios describe your symptoms” before your question mark that probably would have made your reply more clear as to receiving a response.

Fair enoufh this still goes back to lack of info and getting a question answered. A simpler scenario would be at 35 to 45 city driving light throttle going up a site grade I get a buck/jerk the transmission downshifts out of overdrive. The tip off is its under a strain in overdrive it will not do this when overdrive canceled.

Most of the time ignition misfire can have a distinct event pattern but that does not always hold true so you have to drive at different conditions. @100K is begging for 8 new OEM spark plugs and 8 OEM ignition coils. This could appear to be a transmission issue ignition misfires need to be ruled out. As the norm when folks ask for help they do not give enoufh info year, make, model and ENGINE! would be a good place to start. Anyone that does this for a living will tell ya they can not look much without the VIN NUMBER. With so many variations of the same year make and model its a waist of time to guess at it.

You get what you put into it your call so don't get twisted out of shape when you lack on what you put into A HELP NEEDED POST.

https://www.pandaautoservice.ca/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Drivabilty-Form-Panda-Tire-Auto-Moose-Jaw.pdf

 

[Duner Wi]

Hobo,NC said :As the norm when folks ask for help they do not give enough info year, make, model and ENGINE! would be a good place to start.

I agree with this statement if you want better answers,

 

[used red MN]

this still goes back to lack of info and getting a question answered.

I agree that it is often difficult to get proper answers to give a more precise answer to the problems posters are having. But one has to make sure the query made can be clearly understood.

 

[ss55]

Wife's 2006 Expedition with 107k miles; transmission is acting up, as in, when trying to kick out of overdrive it bucks and kicks like the transmission can't decide what gear to select. Push the overdrive button on the shift stalk and it kicks out of OD just fine. All other shifting up/down works fine. Checked fluid level; its fine. Transmission was replaced about 50k ago.

Anyway, question is whether anyone has experienced this and can share what the solution was. Second, is there a decent website where a person can read about Ford vehicle problems and get ideas. Third, any mechanics out there with knowledge of this problem that can recommend a simple solution.

I don't have aspirations of fixing this myself unless it is simple, but I'd like to present the problem to a qualified mechanic in an intelligent manner.

Thanks for help, Michael

By the way this was under warranty

Is the 2006 Ford Expedition still under the original factory warranty ( 60,000 miles/ 5 years ? ), an aftermarket extended warranty, a dealer warranty on a recent purchase, or the warranty on the replacement transmission? You may need to go back to the warranty issuer first to get the warranty honored. Mechanics will avoid taking on a a job if they believe they will not get paid, I can not blame them for that.

On older computer controlled transmissions the computer would momentarily cutoff the ignition during shifts to prolong transmission life. The simple fix for when one of those older transmission was hunting between gears was to shift it manually.

Another alternative, maybe the Mrs. would prefer a different vehicle?

 

[SleepyFarmall]

Fair enoufh this still goes back to lack of info and getting a question answered. A simpler scenario would be at 35 to 45 city driving light throttle going up a site grade I get a buck/jerk the transmission downshifts out of overdrive. The tip off is its under a strain in overdrive it will not do this when overdrive canceled.

Most of the time ignition misfire can have a distinct event pattern but that does not always hold true so you have to drive at different conditions. @100K is begging for 8 new OEM spark plugs and 8 OEM ignition coils. This could appear to be a transmission issue ignition misfires need to be ruled out. As the norm when folks ask for help they do not give enoufh info year, make, model and ENGINE! would be a good place to start. Anyone that does this for a living will tell ya they can not look much without the VIN NUMBER. With so many variations of the same year make and model its a waist of time to guess at it.

You get what you put into it your call so don't get twisted out of shape when you lack on what you put into A HELP NEEDED POST.

https://www.pandaautoservice.ca/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Drivabilty-Form-Panda-Tire-Auto-Moose-Jaw.pdf

Ok, now I understand. The vehicle is 2006 year; 107k miles; V-8 engine 5.4 I think; VIN is 1FMFU1756LA38194; spark plugs were replaced by Ford at 65334 miles; don't know if coils were replaced; transmission itself was replaced with a Ford remanufactured at 74555 miles by Ford which makes it just out of warranty. The event happens at 60-70 mph when approaching a grade and it needs to cancel overdrive automatically but it won't and begins bucking/kicking dramatically. If you cancel overdrive by using the button on the shifter it immediately cancels overdrive and downshifts like it should have done by itself. I can see where an engine misfire could be what I feel but it only happens at that time as described.
I didn't expect anyone to diagnose using a keyboard but was trying to get smart about it before jumping to a major repair. So, this discussion has been very helpful and I should be able to answer questions without seeming to be diagnosing the issue for the technician rather than just saying "it makes a funny noise". On the other hand, if anyone else has experienced this and knows what simple fix resolved it, I'd be interested. Like, disconnect the battery for a minute to reset some computer.

Thanks to all for the help, Michael

 

[Hobo,NC]

Ok, now I understand. The vehicle is 2006 year; 107k miles; V-8 engine 5.4 I think; VIN is 1FMFU1756LA38194; spark plugs were replaced by Ford at 65334 miles; don't know if coils were replaced; transmission itself was replaced with a Ford remanufactured at 74555 miles by Ford which makes it just out of warranty. The event happens at 60-70 mph when approaching a grade and it needs to cancel overdrive automatically but it won't and begins bucking/kicking dramatically. If you cancel overdrive by using the button on the shifter it immediately cancels overdrive and downshifts like it should have done by itself. I can see where an engine misfire could be what I feel but it only happens at that time as described.
I didn't expect anyone to diagnose using a keyboard but was trying to get smart about it before jumping to a major repair. So, this discussion has been very helpful and I should be able to answer questions without seeming to be diagnosing the issue for the technician rather than just saying "it makes a funny noise". On the other hand, if anyone else has experienced this and knows what simple fix resolved it, I'd be interested. Like, disconnect the battery for a minute to reset some computer.

Thanks to all for the help, Michael

That will help to confirm the issue. Normally I would not run 70MPH to chase the issue I do have the luxury of having a 4 lane road with a 70MPH speed limit within a mile of my shop. I'm hooking up run a system scan then going to misfire counters and hit the road. It could be misfiring at other speeds and conditions you are not picking up on it where as I may.

Spark plugs at 65334 mean little to me as they are not my spark plugs I installed. Over the net this is a roll of the dice I am rolling 8's 8 OEM spark plugs and 8 OEM coils. If you flinch at that thanks for stopping by I can not help ya. Life's to short to chase issues like this the rest of out life's I like once and done.

The bad news I could be wrong with my educated guess (no check engine light) there are a long list of other possibility's that can go as far as needing a engine replacement, fuel injectors, cam phasers etc. lets hope there are no other codes in history.

I don't get into engine internals on these engines its a young mans game they can beat you up. For anyone that has a late model Ford follow

FordTechMakuloco and​

flyingwrenches

I marvel at how those two just roll through this they are good at what they do its a young mans game. This is not everyone's game find a trusted mechanic not one that takes on all commers. I see them come along they take on all commers the customer ends up being the loser.

BTW you vin will not come up you are short a number. Lucky you vin 5 the engine code is all that comes up for an expedition. There are 6 expedition body codes I had to run through them all to eliminate engine codes down to they all use code 5. That's was a easy one some make you pull your hair out even if you have the vin.

 

[SleepyFarmall]

Dang it. Should be two 6's together instead of just one 6. I'll probably end up at Ford garage since I don't know where else. That is a problem as well since I'm a lone driver in the house.

 

[SleepyFarmall]

Follow-Up:
Took the car to the local shop which I kinda trust. Tech determined the problem is indeed an engine misfire and is going to do an engine tune-up. I tried to duplicate the symptom using a different gear rather than overdrive but couldn't make it do it, which lead me to believe it was something about the transmission. Anyway I hope this fixes it. Michael

 

[Eman85]

I tried to duplicate the symptom using a different gear rather than overdrive but couldn't make it do it, which lead me to believe it was something about the transmission. Anyway I hope this fixes it. Michael

The reason you couldn't duplicate in another gear is they put less load on the engine through the gear ratio. If the shop has any equipment worth having it will read the misfires and which cylinder is actually misfiring. If they use the words "tune up" that's a very dated term left over from decades ago. They should be able to pinpoint the cause but there isn't any profit in it. You will most likely get new spark plugs, coils and the boots/wires. That is if it isn't a fuel problem which is a possibility.

 

[showcrop]

When I was doing tech service work a recurring time consuming frustrating problem was the customer who told me what they were prertty sure the problem was, whereas if they had just instead told me what they heard, saw, smelled, tasted, that caused them to come to their conclusion we could have both saved a lot of time.

 

[TerryfromSWIowa]

Exactly tell me what your experiencing not your solution

 

[SleepyFarmall]

Exactly tell me what your experiencing not your solution

That's exactly what I did. In my own mind however, I felt it must be something in the transmission because of the symptoms I experienced. Michael

 

[moresmoke]

Exactly tell me what your experiencing not your solution

That's great, but sometimes people need to rub a couple brain cells together. I have a company provided truck for work. One day I happened to check the oil and noticed that the fan belt was split in 2. Looking closer, the pulley on the tensioner was bent. Called to make an appointment to have both changed. The response I got was "how do you know they need to be changed?"

It doesn't matter. If I as the customer want parts replaced, replace them. Yes, I could replace them my self, but I don't have time for that, and I have an expense account that will pay for it.

 

[jimg.allentown]

That's great, but sometimes people need to rub a couple brain cells together. I have a company provided truck for work. One day I happened to check the oil and noticed that the fan belt was split in 2. Looking closer, the pulley on the tensioner was bent. Called to make an appointment to have both changed. The response I got was "how do you know they need to be changed?"

It doesn't matter. If I as the customer want parts replaced, replace them. Yes, I could replace them my self, but I don't have time for that, and I have an expense account that will pay for it.

I have two problems with this post.
First is the mechanic's questioning why you want those parts replaced. Here is the side you don't see.
Customer comes to me wanting me to replace a part. Just for convenience, let me say it's a water pump. My legitimate question is to ask why do you think you need a water pump?
Scenario 1 - I replace the water pump and return the vehicle to the customer. Next day, I'm told that I have a "comeback." Customer says it still leaks. He did not ask me to check for leaks, he asked me to replace a water pump. I did what was requested, and it did not fix the problem.
Scenario 2 - I ask WHY he wants a water pump. Customer (like you) gets irritated and insists. At this point, I should refuse the job. BUT, I take in the vehicle, and see that there are other problems and advise the customer.
This makes it a LEGITIMATE QUESTION to ask why you think you need those parts.

Second problem,. You say you can replace the parts yourself, but you don't have time?????
But, you DO have time to make arrangements, get the vehicle to the shop for repair, get a ride back to work, home, or to get another vehicle. You also have time to do the same thing again in reverse when the repair is completed. Really???? Tell me again about that "time" thing.

This much I will say. The attitude of "the customer is always right" does not apply here. If the customer was right, the mechanic would not be necessary. The customer could do their own diagnosis and repair.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I have two problems with this post.
First is the mechanic's questioning why you want those parts replaced. Here is the side you don't see.
Customer comes to me wanting me to replace a part. Just for convenience, let me say it's a water pump. My legitimate question is to ask why do you think you need a water pump?
Scenario 1 - I replace the water pump and return the vehicle to the customer. Next day, I'm told that I have a "comeback." Customer says it still leaks. He did not ask me to check for leaks, he asked me to replace a water pump. I did what was requested, and it did not fix the problem.
Scenario 2 - I ask WHY he wants a water pump. Customer (like you) gets irritated and insists. At this point, I should refuse the job. BUT, I take in the vehicle, and see that there are other problems and advise the customer.
This makes it a LEGITIMATE QUESTION to ask why you think you need those parts.

Second problem,. You say you can replace the parts yourself, but you don't have time?????
But, you DO have time to make arrangements, get the vehicle to the shop for repair, get a ride back to work, home, or to get another vehicle. You also have time to do the same thing again in reverse when the repair is completed. Really???? Tell me again about that "time" thing.

This much I will say. The attitude of "the customer is always right" does not apply here. If the customer was right, the mechanic would not be necessary. The customer could do their own diagnosis and repair.

 

[Brown David]

Probably ten years ago now I had a new customer come in with a Buick, can't remember model or year now which makes no difference in this situation, he said the right front wheel bearing needs replaced and I have the part.

I said okay, I'll check it out, road test, etc., to make sure that's the one that's bad.

Nope, not paying for road test or diagnostic time, change the bearing. He got in his wife's car and they left.

Changed the bearing as requested, put the old one in the box and in the trunk of the car and parked the car in the lot.

He came back late afternoon, paid the bill with some grumbling about the amount and took the car. Came back 10 minutes later just absolutely raging, car was still roaring/rumbling and accused me of not changing the bearing and charging him for the job anyway. I showed him the old one in the trunk and pulled the wheel cover and showed him the hub of the new bearing.

Did you test drive the car when it was done he said?

I said no, you weren't going to pay for anything but the bearing replacement that you specified and that's all I did. This is all your fault, now haul your a$$ out of here and don't come back.

Oh boy, that lit him up, I was gonna get sued, beat up, blah, blah, blah. I just laughed at him and pointed to the road and said get gone now and walked away.

Never heard anything more from him.

In hindsight I probably should have refused the job unless I could diagnos it but his attitude irked me so I did what I was told and was satisfied with the outcome. I doubt he learned anything.

 

[moresmoke]

I have two problems with this post.
First is the mechanic's questioning why you want those parts replaced. Here is the side you don't see.
Customer comes to me wanting me to replace a part. Just for convenience, let me say it's a water pump. My legitimate question is to ask why do you think you need a water pump?
Scenario 1 - I replace the water pump and return the vehicle to the customer. Next day, I'm told that I have a "comeback." Customer says it still leaks. He did not ask me to check for leaks, he asked me to replace a water pump. I did what was requested, and it did not fix the problem.

In the scenario I posted, if the service advisor comes out 5 min into the job and says "The mechanic got the belt off and discovered the AC clutch bearing is bad..." my response would be "Great! Fix It!"

Scenario 2 - I ask WHY he wants a water pump. Customer (like you) gets irritated and insists. At this point, I should refuse the job. BUT, I take in the vehicle, and see that there are other problems and advise the customer.
This makes it a LEGITIMATE QUESTION to ask why you think you need those parts.

Second problem,. You say you can replace the parts yourself, but you don't have time?????
But, you DO have time to make arrangements, get the vehicle to the shop for repair, get a ride back to work, home, or to get another vehicle. You also have time to do the same thing again in reverse when the repair is completed. Really???? Tell me again about that "time" thing.

Its simple. Takes what 5 minutes to make an appointment? As long as its less than a day long repair, I plan my work travel to be at the shop for the appointed time, drop the keys and go sit in the customer lounge. I then pull out my laptop, and turn on my hotspot. I can sit and get work done for as long as it takes.

This much I will say. The attitude of "the customer is always right" does not apply here. If the customer was right, the mechanic would not be necessary. The customer could do their own diagnosis and repair.

Now to make this a little relevant to the OP, a few years ago my F350/6.8 started burning fuel like crazy. No performance issues at all. Checked for codes, misfire #1 was the only thing present. The first reactions were all plug or coil pack, because that's what everyone wants to blame. Dig a little deeper into live data, the PCM was thinking the engine was running lean and cranking the fuel trim to that bank. There's no way we are lean at 5 MPG! Turns out injector #1 was plugged and we were lean and misfiring on #1, but the other 4 on that side were more than making up for it.

 

[jimg.allentown]

In the scenario I posted, if the service advisor comes out 5 min into the job and says "The mechanic got the belt off and discovered the AC clutch bearing is bad..." my response would be "Great! Fix It!"



Its simple. Takes what 5 minutes to make an appointment? As long as its less than a day long repair, I plan my work travel to be at the shop for the appointed time, drop the keys and go sit in the customer lounge. I then pull out my laptop, and turn on my hotspot. I can sit and get work done for as long as it takes.



Now to make this a little relevant to the OP, a few years ago my F350/6.8 started burning fuel like crazy. No performance issues at all. Checked for codes, misfire #1 was the only thing present. The first reactions were all plug or coil pack, because that's what everyone wants to blame. Dig a little deeper into live data, the PCM was thinking the engine was running lean and cranking the fuel trim to that bank. There's no way we are lean at 5 MPG! Turns out injector #1 was plugged and we were lean and misfiring on #1, but the other 4 on that side were more than making up for it.

I have been bitten by this scenario more times than I care to remember.

I'll go back to the first time. I was working in a Buick dealership. Shop foreman hands me an RO calling for a transmission overhaul. This was on a '73 Buick LeSabre. It had a loud whining noise under acceleration.
So, I took the transmission out and disassembled it. There was nothing wrong with it. Looked just like brand new. Not even signs of the mileage on the car.
So, after conferring with the management, it was determined that there was nothing wrong with the transmission, and to put it back together.
Noise still present.
It turned out that they had used a laminated exhaust pipe that year (maybe other years as well) and it had delaminated internally. We replaced the pipe, and the noise was gone.
Fortunately, asince I performed as I was directed, I did get paid for the job, but there was a lesson to be learned.

 

[ss55]

I have two problems with this post.
First is the mechanic's questioning why you want those parts replaced. Here is the side you don't see.
Customer comes to me wanting me to replace a part. Just for convenience, let me say it's a water pump. My legitimate question is to ask why do you think you need a water pump?
Scenario 1 - I replace the water pump and return the vehicle to the customer. Next day, I'm told that I have a "comeback." Customer says it still leaks. He did not ask me to check for leaks, he asked me to replace a water pump. I did what was requested, and it did not fix the problem.
Scenario 2 - I ask WHY he wants a water pump. Customer (like you) gets irritated and insists. At this point, I should refuse the job. BUT, I take in the vehicle, and see that there are other problems and advise the customer.
This makes it a LEGITIMATE QUESTION to ask why you think you need those parts.

Second problem,. You say you can replace the parts yourself, but you don't have time?????
But, you DO have time to make arrangements, get the vehicle to the shop for repair, get a ride back to work, home, or to get another vehicle. You also have time to do the same thing again in reverse when the repair is completed. Really???? Tell me again about that "time" thing.

This much I will say. The attitude of "the customer is always right" does not apply here. If the customer was right, the mechanic would not be necessary. The customer could do their own diagnosis and repair.

That is a good diagnosis method, if the customer responds:
It is over heating
vrs
It is leaking coolant
vrs
I hear bearing noise,
all point to very different problems to look for, saving your time and the customer's money.

 

[560Dennis]

We had a broken shift spring in the 98 f150 , changed spring , transmission went to 310 k miles .
To long ago ,I took the valve body outto replaced it. Spring cost 9 bucks back then.
Think it was 70 in transmission model
Help to have a friend that’s an ex ford mechanic ,he save me big time.