2010 Starts Intermittently

[Artvandelay]

I just bought a JD 2010. When I looked at it, it started and drove fine. I loaded and unloaded it from the trailer without issue. I used it around the place a couple very brief times without issue, but most recently I would only run in choke (this was never previously the case). I chalked this up to it needed a carb adjustment per the service manual, but was unable to do so because the tach cable needs replaced. This is on my to do list. I was able it use it to complete the needed tasks. Then, about a week ago I briefly needed it to move some heavy items with a carry all around the property. As soon as I got it pulled out of the barn it died, and I was unable to get it to run more than about 30 second at a time.

During all of this I began to suspect a bad alternator - the previous owner did a conversion - due to weak starts despite running for what should have been a sufficient amount of time to charge the battery. I charged the battery and replaced the alternator hoping this would fix the issue of it dying. It did not.

Lots of trouble shooting later, I discovered the load adjustment needle on the carb was EXTREMELY easy to turn. Due to the tach being inoperative, I adjusted the write up linked below, and voila she started right up. I put her in gear and pulled away, unlike before when she would die if you applied any load to the engine. It turned out the o-ring on the needle was so warn it would turn from engine vibration and was about 1/8 of a turn from being fully seated. Knowing it would quickly vibration out of adjustment again, I just took the opportunity to get it back in the barn until I could replace the o-ring.

Fifteen minutes and $1 later the o-ring was replaced, but my problem had returned. It's back to lots of cranking with very little firing. 9/10 times it doesn't fire at all. When it does it typically will only fire one or a few cylinders in quick succession. On extremely rare occasion it will start right up like noting is wrong at all. Unlike before, it will run for long periods of time before dying when it does magically start, but because I haven't had a chance to readjust the carb since changing the o-ring usually I inadvertently kill it trying to make adjustments and then it's game over. Also I worry about trying to take it for a drive because if it dies I'll be stranded.

I have confirmed with a multimeter good power at the coil. I have confirmed by way of attaching a spark plug to the coil lead that the distributor is getting good spark. When I've pulled the individual plugs to check for a spark I don't feel I can say conclusively they are getting a good spark. Initially they were VERY fowled. I cleaned them up and their spark improved greatly. That said, when crank with an attached, grounded plug, it will spark 4/5 times. What I find myself questioning is the quality of my ground. The seems to be NO unpainted metal within plug wire's length of the distributor cap. Further, it seems if I were getting good spark 80% of the time I'd get my sputtering.

I have changed all of the fuel line from the tank to the carb and installed a clear inline filter to allow me to monitor fuel flow. Fuel is flowing during cranking so I know it's getting good flow. These carbs have a fuel strainer in the carb where the line attaches. I've confirmed this isn't clogged by opening the carb drain and fuel is freely moving through the line to back fill.

At this point, I'm leaning towards one of two potential problems. Either a distributor issue, or a weak battery. Over the course of trouble shooting so much I have drained and charged and jumped the battery several times. Obviously this isn't good for them. I'm wondering if during cranking there is enough of a voltage drop to make starting difficult. But, if this is the case, why when I pull a plug do a get a nice blue spark during cranking - even if only 80% of the time? Further, when doing the spark plug to the lead wire it doesn't seem to miss a spark ever. Which makes me think distributor. If it's a distributor issue, why does it seeming magically start? Why does it (I forgot to mention above) not always but at times sputter as I'm releasing the key? This is a known symptom of a weak battery. Perhaps it's only occurring when I've been doing too much trouble shooting and the battery is weak. I hadn't thought to make not of this until now. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I'm not really looking to just throw money at this. Neither part is cheap. I suppose my plan for now is to get a good charge on the battery and take it to the auto parts store to have it tested. Thanks so much in advance.[/img:557556c438][/url]

 

[diesel fumes]

you may have a fuel issue; open drain on carb and see if you a have steady stream of gas. if not does it still have its sediment bowl? check for a dirty fuel filter ,. dirt in fuel tank. possibly need to re build carb

 

[Artvandelay]

(quoted from post at 17:44:22 04/12/21)
I have changed all of the fuel line from the tank to the carb and installed a clear inline filter to allow me to monitor fuel flow. Fuel is flowing during cranking so I know it's getting good flow. These carbs have a fuel strainer in the carb where the line attaches. I've confirmed this isn't clogged by opening the carb drain and fuel is freely moving through the line to back fill. [/img:5d1ec80c24][/url]

 

[Hotflashjr]

1010 gas, I had a few little hemlock needles that would find their way into the outlet of the fuel tank restricting fuel flow just
enough to make the tractor run like crap, but not always. I drained the tank, removed the sediment bowl, and saw my issue. It
took me a few tires to get them all out.

I would consider putting a new condensor in the distributor and possibly a new coil. Last summer my 1010 would start, run good,
maybe, then run like it was hitting on 2 or 3 cylinders, then clear up, then die. I started with a new condensor and that did not
fix my issue. I then put in a new coil and that was the problem.

I have found any distributor components from tractor supply to be junk out of the box. I have had good luck with Napa Echlin
parts. Also, the pretronix coils this website sells. I only run those now.

 

[dairyman]

Dads 3020 behaved that way a while back. One of my friends
used a inline spark tester on it and said it needed the spark
plug wires replaced as they were internally corroded.

 

[Jo Bird]

Here is how I would suggest you take a look at the problems : First take the cap off the gas tank an see if the bottom is covered with any foreign matter, during the ride home it is most likely to have loosened fine partials of dirt by the liquid sloshing around. Second, you will notice, I said liquid in the first statement, remove the drain plug from the carb and catch that in a clear container, if it is yellow in color it's no longer viable fuel for your engine to run properly on, get rid it it . Third, you say you need to choke it to keep it running, by this time the crud has all ready made it's way into the carb and it needs to be completely taken apart and cleaned, their are tinny holes in the main jet which are plugged. Forth, you are probably right as well as the battery may be junk, just because a battery reads over12 volts it may not have enough amps to spit between the starter and the ignition system to operate properly.
That's my take on the problem's at hand, do with my comments as you wish.

 

[dairyman]

Dads 3020 behaved that way a while back. One of my friends
used a inline spark tester on it and said it needed the spark
plug wires replaced as they were internally corroded.

 

[Artvandelay]

I definitely appreciate everyone's feedback. A few things in response:

It sound's like a strong consensus is to check the fuel again. While I feel pretty confident I've ruled that out, I'll give it another look and report back. There wasn't a whole lot of fuel in the tank at the time of purchase, I accidently ran it dry once I got it home so everything in there is fresh fuel - ethanol free - which I've purchased and added within the last 2 - 3 weeks. It had - and while no presently installed I still have - a sediment bowl. While trouble shooting I removed it from the system due to a concern it may be clogged. It is currently plumbed with new rubber line direct from the tank to the carb with a clear filter to monitor flow. It is easily meeting the demands of the carb. I have not checked inside the tank yet, but will be per the recommendations here.

As to the potential issue of the carb being clogged, let me clarify. Once I discovered and fixed the load adjustment needle being out of adjustment it no longer required choke to run. It now operates normally in that respect when it decides to run. I also partially disassembled and inspected it and it appears to be in good shape. I sprayed it down heavily with carb cleaner. Wish I had a parts cleaner to fully disassemble and clean the carb but I don't own one.

As for the condenser/coil being the potential problem, I'm certainly not ruling that out, but many of the ignition system components are newer - based on appearance - and while I know that doesn't mean it can't be bad, it makes me less suspicious of these components than I might otherwise would be. The components that are clearly new include the coil, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, plugs, maybe the condenser? I'm less sure of that. The distributor below the cap is clearly quite old. I've considered switching it out based on that alone, but I just struggle to spent ~$300 on something that I haven't confirmed is bad.

 

[Artvandelay]

While possible I suppose, I highly doubt the battery is bad as its dated February 2021. The fuel tank is clean, I did however discover what I believe is evidence of water in the fuel.

 

[Artvandelay]

I tried to add an image but when doing so this forum uploads the image and the links to the upload which it then flags as suspicious. Bit of an oversight there unless someone more well versed in this forum that I knows a trick.

 

[sbelmont]

If you rule out the battery, it could also be a defective ignition switch; there's a complicated mechanism that integrates the ballast resistor into the switch that is prone to failure, especially in the weird ways in which you describe (i.e. almost enough spark, seemingly weak battery, spark coming in an out, moving the key changes the behavior). Perhaps verify (with a meter) that you have a reliable 6v/12v at the coil during key on/start, and be a little rough with it to make sure the connections are solid. Also, I would recommend an in-line spark tester while you are at the parts store, they are only a couple bucks and far more dependable; creating a spark under engine pressure is much different than out in the open.

-sb

 

[Artvandelay]

Thank you for the suggestions. I hadn't even considered the ignition switch. I have confirmed I'm getting 12 volts to the coil in ON, but haven't checked during cranking.

I will have to pick up an inline tester next time I run to town.

Now that I'm on my desktop, I'm having more success uploading the previously referenced image of water in the fuel.

 

[Jim.ME]

The site spam filters for this often block new users from posting pictures until they have 5 or more posts on record. Given you were able to post a picture in your last post you should be good to go now.

If you have water in your gas you need to clear that out.

Try using a jumper wire from the battery direct to the ignition switch wire terminal on the coil when you try to start it. Some had a wire to do this from the R or I terminal on the starter solenoid to provide power direct to the coil for starting, generally done if there was a ballast resistor ahead of the coil.

 

[Artvandelay]

Thanks I'll give this a try.

When I found the water yesterday I drained the entire system and filled with new.

 

[Jo Bird]

(quoted from post at 12:23:31 04/14/21)
The site spam filters for this often block new users from posting pictures until they have 5 or more posts on record. Given you were able to post a picture in your last post you should be good to go now.

If you have water in your gas you need to clear that out.

Try using a jumper wire from the battery direct to the ignition switch wire terminal on the coil when you try to start it. Some had a wire to do this from the R or I terminal on the starter solenoid to provide power direct to the coil for starting, generally done if there was a ballast resistor ahead of the coil.

rom the picture there's no if about water in the fuel, you have to get it out !! And drain the carb as well !!

 

[Leroy K]

I have a 2010
Maybe you have done this
On mine and other older tractors
When this happens
Undo the gas line at sediment bowl or filter and take an air hose and blow up into the tank
It might clean it and run a while
If runs but does it again
They have sediment bowls that stick up into the tank to prevent the junk from the tank plugging the line again
Just an idea