2040 #1 low compression- did ether do this?

[used red MN]

It wasn’t sealing the greatest, hard to say without seeing one out of another cylinder that showed higher compression. Depends on what you want to do. Put rings in that cylinder and get the valves ground and hopefully it will be good for a while.

 

[fixitforfree]

I realize it’s a risk to only put in rings and have the head worked. If I do decide to go that route should I hone the cylinder? I think the answer is yes but I ask because of my concern of honing the cylinder putting trash material in the bottom end no matter how clean I try to keep it. Is it so important to hone to get new rings to seal in the existing cylinder but risk the debris from honing ruining bearings etc or is it better to skip the honing and hope the new rings seal on a used unhoned cylinder wall? What has been your experience? Also, if I do choose to buy a complete in frame kit and go all out do the cylinder liners in those kits come already honed and ready to go? Thanks for your time and information.

 

[buickanddeere]

I removed #1 valves and see nothing out of the ordinary. Seats and valves look fine and in good shape. Very little play could be felt between valve and guide. Outside of the pitting on that top and middle ring I don’t see a thing that could result in such a large drop in compression so quick. Still scratching my head. Given this tractor won’t be sold and will remain in our family I could go all in and buy a kit with new pistons, rings, liners, gaskets and have the head reworked. Or it seems simply replacing the rings only in #1 would work as well. In a my years working on engines I have never seen such a dramatic change in a motor like this one had only to tear it down and still wonder exactly the problem lies. Usually it’s not hard to find but this stinker has me puzzled.

Those valves and seats are a mess, somebody has tried hand lapping them. . Find a shop that know what they are doing . When finished the valves will seal and just clear the pistons with minimum clearance and max installed height .
Odds are if those injectors are tested on the bench , they are worn and are popping at low pressure .

 

[buickanddeere]

I realize it’s a risk to only put in rings and have the head worked. If I do decide to go that route should I hone the cylinder? I think the answer is yes but I ask because of my concern of honing the cylinder putting trash material in the bottom end no matter how clean I try to keep it. Is it so important to hone to get new rings to seal in the existing cylinder but risk the debris from honing ruining bearings etc or is it better to skip the honing and hope the new rings seal on a used unhoned cylinder wall? What has been your experience? Also, if I do choose to buy a complete in frame kit and go all out do the cylinder liners in those kits come already honed and ready to go? Thanks for your time and information.

Odds are the sleeve to block o'rings are half deteriorated and should be replaced. The sleeves will also have some pitting from cavitation. By the time you purchase rings and O'rings. You are in the cost of a new sleeve/piston/o'ring/pin kit .

 

[fixitforfree]

Odds are the sleeve to block o'rings are half deteriorated and should be replaced. The sleeves will also have some pitting from cavitation. By the time you purchase rings and O'rings. You are in the cost of a new sleeve/piston/o'ring/pin kit .

I get it. Do new sleeves come honed? I worked in lots through the years but never reserves a wet sleeve engine so I not familiar.

 

[used red MN]

Those valves and seats are a mess, somebody has tried hand lapping them.

Hummm??

Valve cover has never been off this tractor in its 5000hr life. We bought it new.

I agree that they are not perfect, but they have been in operation 5000 hours. If you don’t believe him, why read the thread or reply?

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Sleeves come ready to go. You will want New o rings. John Deere sells a liner soap that as a side note also will help with the worst stubborn tire installation as a last resort since the bottle will be easily enough to do 30 tractors if you use way too much. I bought a bottle in 2012. And it’s finally getting low.

 

[used red MN]

I realize it’s a risk to only put in rings and have the head worked. If I do decide to go that route should I hone the cylinder? I think the answer is yes but I ask because of my concern of honing the cylinder putting trash material in the bottom end no matter how clean I try to keep it. Is it so important to hone to get new rings to seal in the existing cylinder but risk the debris from honing ruining bearings etc or is it better to skip the honing and hope the new rings seal on a used unhoned cylinder wall? What has been your experience? Also, if I do choose to buy a complete in frame kit and go all out do the cylinder liners in those kits come already honed and ready to go? Thanks for your time and information.

I would hone the cylinder, just something I have always done. You can clean the crank case with a solvent gun, see my reply 22 in this post. YT IH Cub post You have an advantage over him your tractor has full flow oil filtration. B&D does have a point about the liner orings, but tractors have run 10-15000 hrs without problems. The age part is the consideration that is not on your side there. New sleeves are honed and ready to be installed.

 

[buickanddeere]

Being 42+ years old . The O’rings are past their prime .
Cam wear is measured with a dial indicator .

 

[fixitforfree]

Those valves and seats are a mess, somebody has tried hand lapping them. . Find a shop that know what they are doing . When finished the valves will seal and just clear the pistons with minimum clearance and max installed height .
Odds are if those injectors are tested on the bench , they are worn and are popping at low pressure .

The head has never been off this tractor. What you see may very well be a mess but it’s just due to 5000hr service life in a tractor bought new and used. No one has ever lapped these valves by hand or otherwise.

 

[grwrench]

hello,, liner pitting comes from lack of changing the coolant,, the liners look like termites have been making pits,, holes at the bottom of the liner just above the orings,, i have seen the pitting go ALL way thru and coolant seeps into the engine oil,, that is BAD news!!

 

[fixitforfree]

I checked the #1 cylinder with a gauge tonight. It measured 4.192” on the money. My John Deere manual says the cylinder ID is 4.192”-4.194”. I knew this motor was tight, never used oil, cranked in any weather here in east Texas, etc. However, given its age and 5000hrs I expected to find some measurable wear. I found none. I attached photos of the bore gauge and the dial caliper I checked against the bore gauge just as a second check.

 

[buickanddeere]

I checked the #1 cylinder with a gauge tonight. It measured 4.192” on the money. My John Deere manual says the cylinder ID is 4.192”-4.194”. I knew this motor was tight, never used oil, cranked in any weather here in east Texas, etc. However, given its age and 5000hrs I expected to find some measurable wear. I found none. I attached photos of the bore gauge and the dial caliper I checked against the bore gauge just as a second check.

What was the condition of the mating surface of the block where the sleeve o’ring seals ?
O’ring condition ?
Any pits on the outside of the sleeves ?

 

[fixitforfree]

What was the condition of the mating surface of the block where the sleeve o’ring seals ?
O’ring condition ?
Any pits on the outside of the sleeves ?

I haven’t pulled any of the sleeves. I measured it in the block. My progress is slow. I work lots of hours and still have a child at home playing sports. I don’t doubt the orings are less than perfect and there will be pitting on the OD of the sleeves but haven’t seen that. I’m going to take the head for rework for sure but I decide on if I’m going to replace rings and rod bearing and go with it or do a complete sleeve/piston/ring replacement in all 3 holes.

 

[fixitforfree]

I had the head reworked. Magnaflux showed no cracks, light resurface and a typical valve job done. None of the valves were in bad shape so none were replaced same goes for the seats. The machine shop was blown away that this tractor had 5000hrs by the condition of the head. I have decided just to replace the rings in the weak #1 cylinder along with new head gasket and move on. But, I have an issue ordering parts. I’m goin through JD but not sure about finding the correct model and serial number. I have posted my tractor tag as well as the engine tag on this post. My tractor says it is a “2040US” but that isn’t a choice on the JD site. It only has 2040 or 2040 U. It seems someone on this post mentioned a link to a different, older, JD parts site. What’s the deal with that? I’ll go back and search but can someone explain why I don’t see “2040US” as a choice?

 

[rustred]

That piston looks like a pepper weight to me. I wouldn’t reuse it. Plus check the wrist pin bushing. And hope u put in a new rod brg. Also. And yes home that cylinder.

 

[Mcrafty1]

The head has been checked and is good, the oil pan is off the engine, for approx. $300.00 more you can have all new pistons, rings and sleeves and likely rods and mains. I haven't priced those parts for your engine but I just got done doing my JD 404 six banger with parts from the people at YT/PartsASAP and I know what my piston and sleeve kits/ rods and mains cost. The only extra other than that expense is what little more time you'd have in the instillation and you'd have an inframe overhaul. Just another way of looking at it.

 

[buickanddeere]

In this far and everything is apart .
It is time to look at those sleeve o’rings and possible sleeve pitting .

 

[rustred]

I removed #1 valves and see nothing out of the ordinary. Seats and valves look fine and in good shape. Very little play could be felt between valve and guide. Outside of the pitting on that top and middle ring I don’t see a thing that could result in such a large drop in compression so quick. Still scratching my head. Given this tractor won’t be sold and will remain in our family I could go all in and buy a kit with new pistons, rings, liners, gaskets and have the head reworked. Or it seems simply replacing the rings only in #1 would work as well. In a my years working on engines I have never seen such a dramatic change in a motor like this one had only to tear it down and still wonder exactly the problem lies. Usually it’s not hard to find but this stinker has me puzzled.

i just blew up the valve images and they are a mess. nothing is sealing properly there.

 

[buickanddeere]

Did a dribbling injector mess up that piston ?