2n 3 point lift update...

[stryped]

Took inspection cover off and the fork is attached to the "T" control valve. However, I guess I envisioned that the fork would pull the valve straight out and straight in. However, this has a spring between the "T" and the valve. It sort of moves sideways when I move the control lever if that makes sense. Is that correct?

Also, I don't want to spend any more money than I need to or wait for parts to arrive. I plan this weekend to drop the pump and set it in a 5 gallon bucket of kerosene. Also remove the valves in the valve chamber and the control valve and relief valve. A couple of questions:
1. If I don't remove the two chambers, will the kerosene do damage to the gaskets in them?
2. The rod, valves, springs in the chambers, if I take them out to clean, do they have to be oriented a certain way going back in? (Seems like something I read was confusing about this).
3. I know most people replace the safety valve. Would it be ok just to clean the existing one? I would have to order the valve, and with shipping is close to 50 bucks.

I appreciate all the help.

One last question. When looking at gasket kits, I found one that came with an o ring and washer for an "updated piston" that was used on the NAA. Is this a better set up than the 3 metal rings on my current one? What if you are not replacing the cylinder also?

 

[HCooke]

"It sort of moves sideways when I move the control lever if that makes sense. Is that correct?"

Sounds like the control valve is stuck.

I would not remove the chambers, others may disagree. Kerosene should not hurt anything. I would replace the relief valve.

 

[flembo]

Hopefully I won't regret not going to a naa piston but like you I didn't want to reorder parts and wait for delivery The piston didn't leak so I left well enough alone, the leak down problem I had was the relief valve. I did rebuild the pump with a kit from this sight because of the loud thumping noise which is nice and quite now and it stays up for 4 hrs. LOL.

 

[JMOR]

Keep each valve matched to the seat that it came from....do not mix them.

 

[stryped]

Are you saying you just would not remove the chamber housing or you would not remove the housing and would not remove the valves in the housing?

 

[HCooke]

I would leave the valves and the chambers alone, especially if I found the control valve to be sticky.

 

[ZANE]

If it ain't broke don't "fix" it!

Something is wrong with the control arms or the control valve is sticking.

Drain and clean the pump chamber with a garden sprayer with diesel or kerosene.

Do not pull the pump. It's not necessary. You have got to get the control valve moving correctly.

Zane

 

[stryped]

Thanks. I think I needed to hear that. I tend to go overboard when I fix something and end up spending more than I can really afford. Last month I bought a 200 carb to fix a no start condition I was frustrated diagnosing.

Let me ask you this, if I disconnect the wishbone from the control valve, can I just pull the valve out to clean it by hand? Or is something threaded in there? Is there enough room for me to get it and reinstall it without removing the pump?

Thanks so much for your help!