2N loosing power when warm

[Westernbronco]

I bought my first Ford tractor this past january. It was prety cobled up when I got it. I have had to replace many parts (listed below)to make it operational.

Here is my 2N"s problem, when I am working it prety hard with my Brush Hog. The first 45 minutes it has great power after that I start to loose power, you can hear it starting to miss and sputter. When I am not working it hard it dose great for a long time.

It has a 12V conversion, new ignition switch, new coil, new battery, battery wires, newer plugs and plug wires. It had a blown head gasket that I have since fixed. Good compression when cold over all cylinders (I have not checked it hot).

Dose anyone have any clues of what to check next, or insight to the current problem. Normaly I am prety good with the older tec, but this one is baffeling me.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Bronco.......there are 4-common runtime issues with the 4-nipple frontmount dizzy

1) runs fer about 1-min and quits; restarts in 5-mins; BAD condenser; NOT yer problem
2) runs fer about 5-mins and quits; restarts in 10-mins; CLOGGED fueltank filter; NOT yer problem
3) runs fer about 15-mins and quits; restarts in 30-mins; BAD weaksister ignition switch; NOT yer problem
4) runs fer about 1-hr and quits; restarts after 4-hrs or overnite cool down; Sound like yer problem???
BAD SQUARECAN ignition coil. You've melted the insulative tar inside and shorts out the turns and have weak sparkies and quits running. Do I haffta tell you to replace yer squarecan coil??? NO ARGUE!!!

Biggest cause of BAD COILS, is fergitting the mandatory "infamous ballast resistor". IT IS MANDATORY or you will continue to melt yer coil. .......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

 

[Westernbronco]

Dell,
Mine is not stalling. Starts immediately after shut down. Also, this is a bran spanking new coil. I replaced the old one with this one thinking it is the problem. The only thing I have not changed is the point/condenser and replace the newer (age unknown, but not corroded / faded) plugs and wires. I have a hard time believing the bran new coil would give me the same problems as the last one...

 

[Dell (WA)]

Bronco......you wrote......"The first 45 minutes it has great power after that I start to loose power, you can hear it starting to miss and sputter"......that is WEAK SPARKIES and since it is time-related, ittz'chur squarecan ignition coil as explained. NO ARGUE!!! And yes, they can be BAD rite outta the box. This is sumptin you can not test witta meter but can test with my calibrated sparkie tester.

Take enny ol'sparkie and bend the side electrode out for a full 3/16" gap. Clamp the metal shell to convient bracket. Plug enny sparkie wire to the top. With tranny in NEUTRAL, ignition ON, crank yer starter motor and watch the tester sparkies. Are they blue-snott HOT? ...or... weak and wimpy yellowish-orangish??? or NO sparkies at all. Test made AFTER the coil is HOT from use.

FYI, my eazy starting 6-volt 8N will jump a full 3/8" gap. .......Dell, yer sparkie-meister

 

[Anonymous-0]

Do you have the ballast resistor plus a dropping resistor to limit the current to around 3 to 3.5 amps to the coil or just one resistor? If this is a 12 volt conversion with a 6 volt coil, I believe you need two resistors to limit the current.

You might check your coil current.

 

[Danny in CO]

Bronco,

I agree with Dell. I believe it is your coil. The question I have: is your new coil a 12 volt coil or a 6 volt coil? [b:654c4848f0]BOTH[/b:654c4848f0] need the original ballast resistor. A 6 volt coil ALSO needs a 12 to 6 volt dropping resistor.

With a 12 volt coil you need about 10 volts at the top of the coil with the points closed.

With a 6 volt coil you need about 3 - 3.5 volt at the top of the coil with the points closed.

Danny