2N overheating

[Anonymous-0]

Helping a friend of my Uncle with trouble-shooting a 2N overheating problem.

Tractor ran good then one day got hot, started to puff some steam at the cap and lost power. I found oil in radiator - water in oil - pulled head and found break in gasket. Everything else looked good so I changed gasket. Started right up, ran good, etc. for several months.

Got a call last weekend while bush-hogging tractor ran out of water. Serviced with water. Ran for awhile, water level low again, no power but idling good. They looked it over, figured it may be the cap and/or water pump so they ordered one of each and called me to change it.

I just got back. I decided to do a little check myself - performed a quick pressure check of the radiator - no leaks. Found the upper rad hose soft and not round - which I think is/was the primary over heat problem. Now for the big problem.....

Pulled the spark plugs to check compression and noticed they were wet, but not from gas - water!
I motored the engine and an impressive water fountain display from the front 2 plug holes.

I've heard stories of the water getting sucked up but this was a lot. I'm surprised it didn't hydraulic up and break a rod or something.

Before I tear into this, anybody seen this, or have any tips/advice, or what to look for? I've never seen this much water - which unfortunately is giving me a bad feeling there is a big crack somewhere.

Apologize for the length and will appreciate any and all responses. Thanks.

Scott

 

[Anonymous-0]

did you retorqe the heads after inital warmup after
replacing the headgasket

 

[Anonymous-0]

528 - yes sir, I even checked it again after a week of working. There was minimal re-torque required on the first check and no movement noted on the second check. Thanks.

scott

 

[Dell (WA)]

Scott.......this is yer second chance. When you replaced yer FIRST headgasket, did you check for a "warped cylinder head" with carpenters-"T"??? This is most likely what your problem is. Automotive machine shop "mill" the head to take the "warp" out. $25 (cheap) It is common automotive machineshop work. Let them examine the head, they have the "experience". Max mill (skim) is 0.060" before the pistons start bangin' the head. Always test yer head clearance before you bolt yer new headgasket. Put cylinderhead on (NO gasket, NO tight stud-nuts) and turn yer engine over with fanbelt (yes, you can) Iff'n piston don't lift the cylinderhead (watch closely) then you have enuff clearance for re-installation with new headgasket and torque to specs. Retorque after 15-min warm-up.

Iff'n pistons hit the head, new cylinder head $200 (not cheap).........Dell

 

[Anonymous-0]

Dell - I can't say I used a straight edge to check the head - eye-balled it and checked for rock'in on the block. I did check the piston clearance as described. Will start on teardown next week and post update. Thanks for the help.

scott

 

[JDrew]

I had problems with my '47 eating head gaskets until I finally switched from studs to bolts.

I also took a 9X12 granite reference plate (cheap from Grizzly.com), spray-cemented a sheet of 600 grit wet/dry paper to it and polished the block and head faces "clean". There was one spot between #2 & #3 that needed a bit of attention, but I don't believe I actually removed much metal. Checked for piston clearance, reassembled, and haven't blown a gasket since. (Now, I have other issues...)

my $.02

J-

 

[Anonymous-0]

J- thanks for the tip. I also am not a stud fan and plan to order bolts if I don't find anything really bad. Thanks.

scott