2n post-restoration startup

[Kennelson]

I'm just finishing a complete 2N restoration project. The engine is a total rebuild and has not turned over fully since beginning work 3 years ago. My concern is lubrication for startup and breakin. If I pull the tractor to start it (that is, I allow the engine to turn over to get oil flowing before ignition), do I need to prime the oil pump or will it flow without priming? What grade/type of oil should I use for startup and breakin and when do I change it for normal operation? For normal use, what's the thinking out there on detergent vs non-detergent oil?

 

[Leemo]

Did you pack the oil pump with vaseline or another priming agent before you installed it? You can remove the large plug and pressure relief spring in the front of the timing cover and prime it with some 90 wt oil before you turn it over to be sure it has a prime. Grade and type of oil to use has been debated time and again and I don't think it's any big deal. Straight 30 wt or 40 wt is good. 10W40 wt or 20W50 is good. Any of todays detergent oils are better than what was available when the tractor was new. No reason to use non-detergent. You pick. Why not use the starter to crank it over before you try to actually start it. It should pick up pressure OK from that and probably start with the starter as well.
Good Luck, Lee

 

[Dell (WA)]

Kenny.......I'd squirt about 1-oz (tablespoon) of regular engine oil down each sparkie hole. Why? 'cuz you need to becertain that the rings are sealed for compression. During normal engine operation, the crankshaft squirts oil up the bottom of the pistons and oilseals yer rings. New rings are NOT oilsealed and therefore justa squirt will do you.

Then unless you greased yer oilpump gears during rebuild time you need to prime yer oilpump by squirting 90wt or 140wt (not engine oil) down yer oil pressure relief BIG nut behind the waterpump pulley. Why not engine oil? 'cuz engine oil will slip right past the gears down into the oilpan before you have a chance to turn yer starter motor. Once primed with yer starter motor, you should be good to go and read 35psi or better on yer oilpressure gauge. ........Dell

 

[NOXJohn]

I would do what Dell and LeeMo suggested plus I would use a 12 volt battery to jump the starter with the plugs removed to get oil pressure. I normally can get 10-15 pounds pressure with the starter and a 12 volt battery.

 

[Anonymous-0]

When my grand dad would re-build tractor motors at his dealership he would add half a quart or more of engine oil to a full tank of gas. Ran the motor at no more than half throttle and wouldn't pull nothing more than a scrape blade for the first tank of gas.

The tractor would smoke like a dickens, but after the gas was burnt out and fresh plugs and gas was added the engine would last forever.

My 9N that I just bought had the engine re-built by my grandad 30 years ago. Doesn't smoke, great oil pressure and runs great.

Break-in properly is vital to a long lasting engine.

 

[Kennelson]

Thanks, fellas, for the responses. I have a few more details to take care of and will then take your advice. This has been a fun--if looong--project, but it looks great and should show and work well. I"ll post pics soon. Thanks again. Ken

 

[Walston]

I just started mine for the first time after a rebuild. I used engine assembly lubricant during the rebuild and packed the oil pump with white grease. I put 1 tablespoon of oil in each cylinder. I used Shell Rotella T oil for the added ZDDP. It is 15W40. She fired right up with the starter and had 40+ psi of oil pressure instantly.

Just a point of reference.

Good luck, it is great to hear it run again.