2N Starting Symptoms

[Skyhawk Greg]

Hi,

Did a quick search, but didn't come up with anything.

Now that it is cold outside, my unfailingly faithful 1946 2N has become quite difficult to start. Here are some quick givens:

* Tractor has good compression.

* Tractor has always started within a complete revolution or two of the crankshaft - whether it is hot or cold outside.

* Current temperature outside is just below freezing.

* Points/condenser are two years old. Points are gapped properly. I did not take a farad reading on the condensor as of yet, as I do not believe this to be the problem. The spark is a nice strong blue.

* 8V battery in a 6V system. Battery is fully charged. Cables, and all electrical wires and connections are clean, as well as pretty new.

* Attempts to start, are made with the clutch disengaged.

* The air cleaner bowl has been removed and inspected for ice buildiup. There is none.

* The air cleaner to carb hose has been removed.

* The choke butterfly is operating properly.

* I have added some dry gas to the gas tank, mixed it well, and then drained the current gas from the carb.

* The exhaust system is not plugged.

* The valves are probably not sticking, as there is good compression.

* When the starter is engaged, the engine almost immediately fires on one cylinder, the starter instantly disengages, and the engine does not fire a second time. This can go on forever. This is not a backfire type of 'pop'. It is a normal combustion sound, but only from one cylinder, one time.

* The same thing as above happens when ether is introduced by spraying a rag and holding it on the carb inlet. The starter motor simply won't stay engaged long enough to get the tractor started.

* I do not know if pull starting the tractor will work, as I do not have a second person.

All that I can think of, is that the bendix on the starter is kicking out prematurely. Maybe this is because of the cold, maybe it isn't.

Anybody have any experience with this sort of thing?


Thank you,
Greg

 

[old]

How old are the spark plugs??? If more then a year I would replace them with a new set of auto lite 437s gaped at 0.025 and see if that helps. Cold engine start harder then warm and it sounds like you may need new plugs or maybe a bit more choking but that choking is a fine line between just enough and flooding

 

[Mike OH]

If it were mine, I'd get some heat on the carb/manifold and see if that helps. If that doesn't help, I'd try jumping with a 12v battery. If you don't know how to safely jump start with a 12volter, check the archives

 

[rob75b]

I don't know if I will be much help or not, I'm new to the whole N experience unlike these guys.

This was my first winter with the 2N and I killed a bendix. I relized afterwards it was because I got used to starting it in nuetral off of the tracter during the summer. Come winter, not a good Idea. It killed my bendix. The guy at the store said it was because I was not letting it come to a complete stop before hitting the button again but I'm sure I was.

Well since I got a shiny new bendix installed... I have noticed that it will spit and sputter and still crank, where the old one used to kick out on the first little "sput".

Maybe yours is on it's way out also.

Anyways, good luck.

 

[jackinok]

mine was doing the same thing when it got down near zero, found a sticking float in carb causing it to flood.once I got needle unstuck it has started fine every time.dont know what caused it to stick,I never found anything in it ,but i suspect a small amount of water in the gas.since it was way low i just drained it all and added all new . if that were your problem though i would think you would see some fuel dripping from throat of carb without air cleaner tube on.I would try new plugs first . but you may turn fuel on for a few minutes without trying to start and see if it shows any sign of flooding.

 

[KHinWY]

I had the same problem with starting my 2n last year. Yes pull starting works well but you have to hit the start button when you let out the clutch or the rear wheels just slide, 2nd gear works best. I also found that by turning over the engine with the key off for a few revolutions and then turn the key on as it is turning over works well. But I found as Old mentioned changing the spark plugs fixed the problem.

 

[CTucker]

I replaced the original starter Bendix in the 8n about 25 years ago with one from TSC. I remember I had to grind a little notch in the bell housing for the new one to fit. I think it was mentioned in the installation instructions. The old one would kick out any time it popped and would not reengage well. Haven't had a problem with the starter since.

 

[Den N Ms]

Starter Drive - New improved design starter drive, for 9N, 2N, 8N (1939 to 1952). (Part No: 52-11350C)


Greg,You need to replace your old style kicken out bendix.Replace it with the new style bendix drive that will stay engaged when the cylinders fire instead of kicken out all the time.You can get one here at this site,under tractor parts.

 

[Skyhawk Greg]

Thank you for all the thoughts! I am going to investigate this further over the weekend, and hope to have the 2N running shortly.

Thanks again!
Greg

 

[DollarBill]

[b:182a208be0]Yes pull starting works well but you have to hit the start button when you let out the clutch or the rear wheels just slide, 2nd gear works best.[/b:182a208be0]

Unless I'm missing something, the safety interlock should prevent the starter button from making contact unless the gear shift is in neutral.

 

[lha]

My 9n still has the old style bendix,and I start mine like this:Key off,turn over 2-3 revs,pop choke out on and off quickly.Then turn key on,turn over and it will start right away,but you may have to play the choke for a few seconds or longer,depending on temps.this easy and simple way has worked for me with an old Dodge['48 6v+g]and my 9n[6v+g]---lha