3 point question

AaronTM95

New User
Location
Mineral, VA
Hello everyone! I am new to a 1944 Ford 2N. I’ve noticed that with my back blade on that once I disengage the clutch or shut the tractor off, if the PTO is fully lifted it leaks down after about 5-10 mins. It doesn’t really bother me. I guess the only time that it would be a pain is if I hooked up a bush hog , had it raised up and didn’t want to keep the PTO on. Will it hurt the tractor if I have the PTO on the whole time I’m using it to keep the blade up/down?
 
Hello everyone! I am new to a 1944 Ford 2N. I’ve noticed that with my back blade on that once I disengage the clutch or shut the tractor off, if the PTO is fully lifted it leaks down after about 5-10 mins. It doesn’t really bother me. I guess the only time that it would be a pain is if I hooked up a bush hog , had it raised up and didn’t want to keep the PTO on. Will it hurt the tractor if I have the PTO on the whole time I’m using it to keep the blade up/down?
Not a problem if on full time..Mine has leaked down about same rate as yours for last 40 years
 
Hello everyone! I am new to a 1944 Ford 2N. I’ve noticed that with my back blade on that once I disengage the clutch or shut the tractor off, if the PTO is fully lifted it leaks down after about 5-10 mins. It doesn’t really bother me. I guess the only time that it would be a pain is if I hooked up a bush hog , had it raised up and didn’t want to keep the PTO on. Will it hurt the tractor if I have the PTO on the whole time I’m using it to keep the blade up/down?
Yep, perfectly normal.
 
@AaronTM95 - No, won't hurt anything, unless it is YOU, if you do not have the appropriate guards on the PTO output. And, you can't put the cover on the shaft with the brush-hog REQUIRED over-running clutch installed. That ORC is necessary with the N-series tractors, unless you like dodging trees or fence lines!

Welcome to YT. Lots of good information in here, interspersed with some not-so-good stuff. Obtain the service and other manuals for the tractor. They are fun, but limited in capability, as some on here will tell you.

I have an 8N that is capable of running a 5' Bush Hog (tm), and does well with the back blade and box blade.

Learn the capabilities of the machine, and stay safe. zuhnc
 
The tractor actually came with a ORC on it which was awesome and saved me some money! I’m going to stick to my blade for now and get used to the tractor. I’ve already been able to do a ton! Open back up a driveway, pull and push debris and pull fallen trees out of the woods. Thank you though, I’m happy to be here and have this tractor.
 
@AaronTM95 - No, won't hurt anything, unless it is YOU, if you do not have the appropriate guards on the PTO output. And, you can't put the cover on the shaft with the brush-hog REQUIRED over-running clutch installed. That ORC is necessary with the N-series tractors, unless you like dodging trees or fence lines!

Welcome to YT. Lots of good information in here, interspersed with some not-so-good stuff. Obtain the service and other manuals for the tractor. They are fun, but limited in capability, as some on here will tell you.

I have an 8N that is capable of running a 5' Bush Hog (tm), and does well with the back blade and box blade.

Learn the capabilities of the machine, and stay safe. zuhnc

I have chains that limit the down travel on my 8n. when mowing it takes the strain off of the hydraulics and maintains a constant height of the deck. when moving and not mowing I can disengage the PTO and the mower is still supported.
Is there a chain kit that I should get for a 2N or do you just rig up something?
 
Hello everyone! I am new to a 1944 Ford 2N. I’ve noticed that with my back blade on that once I disengage the clutch or shut the tractor off, if the PTO is fully lifted it leaks down after about 5-10 mins. It doesn’t really bother me. I guess the only time that it would be a pain is if I hooked up a bush hog , had it raised up and didn’t want to keep the PTO on. Will it hurt the tractor if I have the PTO on the whole time I’m using it to keep the blade up/down?
Hello, this is an IH guy welcoming you to YT! One of the few things a Ford has over a Farmall is their 3 point hitch. Back in the day farmers would take to the field with a plow hooked on. Run the PTO for the lift for 8-10 hours a day and maybe do that for a week straight. You will very likely never come close to that kind of use with your Ford.
 
Hello everyone! I am new to a 1944 Ford 2N. I’ve noticed that with my back blade on that once I disengage the clutch or shut the tractor off, if the PTO is fully lifted it leaks down after about 5-10 mins. It doesn’t really bother me. I guess the only time that it would be a pain is if I hooked up a bush hog , had it raised up and didn’t want to keep the PTO on. Will it hurt the tractor if I have the PTO on the whole time I’m using it to keep the blade up/down?
HiYa Aaron and welcome aboard the wonderful world of FORD TRACTORS. Your hydraulic system is worn out, typical of these 80+ year old machines. Many were never serviced properly if at all. As with all FORD components and systems on these tractors, they can be rebuilt over and over as they were designed to be. What exactly you need is based on how much time and money you want to put into it. If you can live with current working condition, can start saving for the rebuild parts and prepare by getting and reading the ESSENTIAL MANUALS and how the 9N/2N Hydraulic System functions. The 9N/2N had DRAFT CONROL only. The Hydraulic System functions controlling two systems. The pump base sump is used for the transmission as well as the hydraulic 3-PT Lift. The Top Cover, located under the seat on the center housing, must be removed in order to rebuild the hydraulic system and install a new cylinder and piston. DO NOT REMOVE THE TOP COVER until you read the manuals and know how the procedure is done. The 9N/2N Hydraulic System uses a unique "Wishbone Bracket" linkage to connect it from underneath. The linkage must be disconnected first thru the side inspection covers by hand before you can remove the top cover. Furthermore, you must know which bolts fasten the hydraulic cylinder on with and DO NO REMOVE them until you get the top cover off and on your workbench. If you loosen/remove the wrong bolts before, you will do damage to the system internally. Plan on buying at least a new cylinder, new piston, new Safety Relief Valve, and new gasket kit. Cleaning the chambers and pump is advised. Get your MANUALS and read first.

Tim Daley (MI)
 

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The tractor actually came with a ORC on it which was awesome and saved me some money! I’m going to stick to my blade for now and get used to the tractor. I’ve already been able to do a ton! Open back up a driveway, pull and push debris and pull fallen trees out of the woods. Thank you though, I’m happy to be here and have this tractor.
x2 on the chains. Apologies if teaching granny to suck eggs - but - you mention pulling fallen trees out of woods - to avoid flipping over backwards keep that connection point lowdown and indeed maybe connect to front bumper and pull in reverse.
 
maybe connect to front bumper and pull in reverse.
I understand using an abundance of caution but there is such a thing as over abundance too.
Ford - and every other brand out there - built their tractors to pull from the rear.
I say use a tractor how it was intended to be used but don't over do it. You'll be okay.
PS,
What is the small craft in your photo?
Looks like a coastal vessel from someone's navy. Those might even be guns fore and aft?
Can you tell us more about it?
 
I understand using an abundance of caution but there is such a thing as over abundance too.
<...snip...>
What is the small craft in your photo? <...snip...>
Agreed - I was maybe too focused on the "pull fallen trees" and visualizing a dragged log snagging on unseen undergrowth and coming to an abrupt unexpected stop - that'll lift the front and test your ability to hit the clutch? Small craft: HMS Wilkieston. TON class inshore minesweeper. Off Singapore 1969. Bofors 40/60 forward, Oerlikon 20mm aft.
 
Agreed - I was maybe too focused on the "pull fallen trees" and visualizing a dragged log snagging on unseen undergrowth and coming to an abrupt unexpected stop - that'll lift the front and test your ability to hit the clutch? Small craft: HMS Wilkieston. TON class inshore minesweeper. Off Singapore 1969. Bofors 40/60 forward, Oerlikon 20mm aft.
Of course I had to look it up.


Very cool!
1969 was Vietnam era...
Were you stationed on it?
 
I have chains that limit the down travel on my 8n. when mowing it takes the strain off of the hydraulics and maintains a constant height of the deck. when moving and not mowing I can disengage the PTO and the mower is still supported.
Me too. Even though the 8N has position control, when I run my mower, I have limiter chains on it. Why have the pump working to keep the mower at a certain height when one can do it with limiter chains?
 
I have chains that limit the down travel on my 8n. when mowing it takes the strain off of the hydraulics and maintains a constant height of the deck. when moving and not mowing I can disengage the PTO and the mower is still supported.
Don't need limiter chains on an 8N - it has POSITION CONTROL

Tim Daley (MI)
 
Hello everyone! I am new to a 1944 Ford 2N. I’ve noticed that with my back blade on that once I disengage the clutch or shut the tractor off, if the PTO is fully lifted it leaks down after about 5-10 mins. It doesn’t really bother me. I guess the only time that it would be a pain is if I hooked up a bush hog , had it raised up and didn’t want to keep the PTO on. Will it hurt the tractor if I have the PTO on the whole time I’m using it to keep the blade up/down?
Don't see how you can push/pull a back blade without the PTO engaged. How do you raise and lower the blade when you need to? You don't use an ORC to plow with. As stated, attach the PTO CAP when plowing or bac blading to prevent entangling weeds and risk it grabbing your pants or shirt. That is what it was made for. You keep the Cap in your toolbox so it is handy when needed. OEM 9N/2N Cap was cast iron.

Now, I do advise to always use STABILIZER BARS with a back blade. They fasten to the 3-PT with brackets under the fenders. STAB BARS keep the blade from kicking to one side under load and help keep it tracking straight. New aftermarket kits are sold here and everywhere. Must be set up a certain way. STAB BARS also should be used with a mower or brush hog too.

FYI: An original member here, Zane Sherman, now deceased, designed and sold a Position Control Device for the 9N/2N tractor, called it The Zane Thang, since they only had DRAFT CONTROL. The 8N added POSITION CONTROL. There is a place in Pella, IA, RED ROCK MFG who makes similar Zane Thang now for your 9N/2N.



Tim Daley (MI)
 

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Don't see how you can push/pull a back blade without the PTO engaged. How do you raise and lower the blade when you need to? You don't use an ORC to plow with. As stated, attach the PTO CAP when plowing or bac blading to prevent entangling weeds and risk it grabbing your pants or shirt. That is what it was made for. You keep the Cap in your toolbox so it is handy when needed. OEM 9N/2N Cap was cast iron.

Now, I do advise to always use STABILIZER BARS with a back blade. They fasten to the 3-PT with brackets under the fenders. STAB BARS keep the blade from kicking to one side under load and help keep it tracking straight. New aftermarket kits are sold here and everywhere. Must be set up a certain way. STAB BARS also should be used with a mower or brush hog too.

FYI: An original member here, Zane Sherman, now deceased, designed and sold a Position Control Device for the 9N/2N tractor, called it The Zane Thang, since they only had DRAFT CONTROL. The 8N added POSITION CONTROL. There is a place in Pella, IA, RED ROCK MFG who makes similar Zane Thang now for your 9N/2N.



Tim Daley (MI)
Tim, position control or the Zane thang don't matter. The pump is still pumping to hold up the implement.
 
Don't see how you can push/pull a back blade without the PTO engaged. How do you raise and lower the blade when you need to? You don't use an ORC to plow with. As stated, attach the PTO CAP when plowing or bac blading to prevent entangling weeds and risk it grabbing your pants or shirt. That is what it was made for. You keep the Cap in your toolbox so it is handy when needed. OEM 9N/2N Cap was cast iron.

Now, I do advise to always use STABILIZER BARS with a back blade. They fasten to the 3-PT with brackets under the fenders. STAB BARS keep the blade from kicking to one side under load and help keep it tracking straight. New aftermarket kits are sold here and everywhere. Must be set up a certain way. STAB BARS also should be used with a mower or brush hog too.

FYI: An original member here, Zane Sherman, now deceased, designed and sold a Position Control Device for the 9N/2N tractor, called it The Zane Thang, since they only had DRAFT CONTROL. The 8N added POSITION CONTROL. There is a place in Pella, IA, RED ROCK MFG who makes similar Zane Thang now for your 9N/2N.



Tim Daley (MI)
Maybe I misspoke. I really meant if I’m cruising along my property and have the blade raised, with a solid hydraulic system, I should be able to raise and cut off the PTO and the blade should stay up. On mine when I have it up and I’m going from one part of my property to another and I have the blade up and disengage the PTO the blade sinks. That’s why I’m asking if it’s ok to just keep the PTO on so I can keep it raised when riding along.
 

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