3010 Gas Standard

My 3010 Gas standard runs rough. I've had the carburetor professional rebuilt, new plugs, condenser, points, rotor, cap, etc. Still runs rough like its missing on cylinder. All cylinders have compression. The only thing I did notice is that the distributor shaft has some play in it. I was thinking about that as its the only thing left. Any Ideas?
 
Did you pull the plugs out to see if 1 is wet? Maybe you could get lucky and just have a bad new plug.
 
I've pulled all the plugs. None are wet and I checked to make sure that each has spark and it does. I'm thinking its the distributor, but I'm not sure.
 
couple things came to mind..
plug wires??
What kind of plugs did you install? Champion plugs have never done well in my 3020 gas..
 
Does it have the correct coil in it? My 3020 Gas ran poorly & started way worse when I got it.

Someone had installed a coil that did not require an external ballast resistor. What some would call a 12 volt coil.

Trouble is the tractor's wiring harness is designed to use a coil that DOES require an external ballast resistance when in a 12 volt system. It's a LOT happier now with the correct coil in place. Pops right off, no more missing, way less falling on his face with throttle changes! I use Champion D21 plugs.

Not sayin that's it but it's a maybe.

Hope that helps.
 
The coil on it now is a NAPA coil that says "No external resistor required." This coil was on it when I bought it and looks pretty new.
 
I think your "No external resistor required" coil is a 12 volt coil. Your tractor probably still has a ballast resistor and a resistor bypass for easier starting. Using that coil with a resistor could give a weak spark and cause it to run poorly after you release the starter.

If you still have your receipt, can you exchange the coil for a 6 volt coil?
 
What I recommend you do:

1. Roll it with a screwdriver in the timing window until the points are closed.

2. Turn the ignition switch to the run position.

3. Measure the voltage between the frame and the BATTERY post of the coil. Not the distributor side, the feed side.

4. Measure the voltage of the battery from post to post then turn the switch off.

My guess is you'll see right about 12 volts from post to post at the battery and only 4.5 to 6 from the coil to the frame. That means it is running with maybe 30% the spark it OUGHT to have! The coil you say you have should see and operate on full battery voltage!

I suspect you'll find the low voltage from the coil post to the frame so you need one of the coils that DOES require an external resistor when used on a 12 volt system! HOWEVER.... do NOT install that external resistor!

The tractor is already equipped with the external resistance & you just need the correct coil which is an external resistor coil.

Will likely make quite a difference in both how it runs and how easily it starts!
 
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