3010 moving rear wheels

[Anonymous-0]

I have a JD 3010 that I am trying to adjust the rear wheels out. It seems like they are rusted on the hub & won't move. Does anybody have any ideas or tricks to free the wheels with out breaking them?

 

[bullfrog]

good penatrating oil, a bit of heat, and above all, take your time!

 

[glennster]

what ya really need is the "hotchkiss reversable wheel mover" we used o have one of these to move wheels in and out. clamped on, jack wheel in or out. worked good. doubt if the company is still in business, but it would not be hard to build something like this.

<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&current=hotchkisswheelmover.jpg" target="_blank">

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Untitled URL Link

 

[Rich Va]

Loosen the inside wedges. I've also heard of people driving the tractor around with the wedges loose to break it free. Penetrating oil helps also.

 

[rustyfarmall]

Have you referred to your owners manual? Did you loosen the three bolts that keep the wedges tight? Did you turn those two jack screws in until the wedges moved? Next step is to put a wrench on that pinion bolt and just crank the wheel in or out to whever it needs to be. If you have done all that already, which you probably have, just soak it all down with penetrating oil and start the waiting game.

 

[Anonymous-0]

SOP is to loosen the three wedge clamp bolts on the outside. Tighten the two jack bolts, then shake things with the wheel off the ground by whacking the end of the axle with a post maul. Say 20 or 30 pound post maul. Tighten the jack bolts some more. On my 4020 they stood a 6' cheater bar but screamed every bit of motion. I put in new ones once I had the wheels loose.

You can help by pulling the jack bolts, cleaning up their threads and adding some high pressure grease to their threads. Kroil is a good penetrating oil to add around the wedge. Shock helps Kroil penetrate as does heat.

Its nicest if the wheels have been moved twice a year, then they don't have time to have rusted fast.

There are those that propose a wedge pushing tool be made out of sturdy pipe.

Gerald J.

 

[Goose]

My dad tried to move one of the rear wheels on an infamous Oliver 70 I mentioned on a different thread. It wouldn't budge.

He loosened the clamps, went out in the field, and started discing. After a couple of rounds he checked and the wheel had worked itself out to exactly where he wanted it. He just tightened the clamps.

 

[mattd]

with jack bolts tight hit on the end of axle with a bfh

 

[JMS MN]

Don"t beat on the axle with a bfh- you"re not trying to loosen the axle- you just end up mushrooming the axle and stressing the inside gears. Do like the others say regarding the jack bolts and wedge bolts. You"re trying to move the wedge, so find a pipe slightly larger than the axle,, and longer than it. On one end, cut out a half circle at a 45 degree angle. Other end, weld a heavy plate to beat on. Drive the tractor so the wedge is on top, slip the pipe on the axle so the protruding end contacts the wedge. Then use the bfh! I should really get a photo of this tool- every year or so someone could use it. I put this explanation on the JD board some years ago. I"m not the only one who came up with this idea.

 

[ejr-IA]

If you crank on the jack bolts to much you can break the the cones then you realy have a problem.I know the JD mechcanics smack the end of the axle with a big bfh.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Been in the JD shop many times switching tires etc. They put pressure on the wedges and then whack the end of the axle with a big sledge. It can take some time and effort to break loose.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Its the shock of beating on the end that lossens the wedge with wedge bolts loose jack bolts tight hit the end and hit it hard. I had to move the wheels on a 4640 that had not been moved in 25 years . I cranked on the jack bolts with a 4 ft breaker bar and striped the threads in 1 . John deere blockman Said the only way to lossen them rite is with what they call a swinging sledge . I made one just the way he told me It is a 6 in. oilwell casing 8 ft. long with a 1 in end cap welded to the end then hung from a chain from a forklift and banged on the end of the axel till it came loose HE said that you can't hurt any thing inside If it was going to break somthing It should have on mine cause I pounded for a while before it came loose but it did . I have run it for 2 years and have had no problems

 

[mattd]

there is no gears that are going to be stressed by hitting the end of the axle. the final drive is a planetary and all the gears are straight cut. the only thing that wont like it is the outer bearing, and it still wont hurt it, its probably loose anyway. and if the axle gets mushroomed. use a grinder and smooth it down. or the best way is once its loose use a hoist and lift the wheel up and take the wedges completely out and swing the tire out. they should be taken out anyway to clean the rust off.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I cut a 1 inch shaft the same dia. as the axle and tack welded it to the end of axle. Then beat it as others have said. That way you won't mushroom the end of axle or ruin it in any way if you miss slightly with maul. Just leave it tacked on axle for next time.