301A choke (cable?)

[TomIn]

I've got a John Deere 301A gas tractor. The engine will not cold start unless choked. This spring the choke would not
pull out. I'm guessing that the cable was rusted because I was eventually able to pry the cable out and work it back and
forth until the choke operated in a near normal fashion. When I tried to use the tractor again about six week later the
cable was frozen again. I figure that after 45 years it's time for a new cable.

John Deere identifies the cable as part AT21466 and wants nearly $100 for a new one. Googling that part number, other
sites seem to sell a A&I cable for less slightly over $40. I am guessing that this is the same part that this site sells
for the Deere 1020 and 1520 tractors. Doing a search by model number for a 301A tractor this site lists only a universal
cable for about $17. The universal cable is identified as 72 long with a 7/16 thread diameter. This site's cable for
the 1020 and 1520 tractors is identified as 34.5 total length. The John Deere parts site shows that the cable attaches with a 3/8 nut.

Has anyone had experience with replacing the choke cable on any of the similar models? Is any cable better than others?
Would I be as well off trying to clean and lubricate my existing cable?

 

[Jim.ME]

To me a choke cable is a choke cable. You can get the plain old bare spiral wire wrapped outer shell or more expensive multiwire shells encased on plastic sheathing. At most any parts store you should be able to order one to get the type, mount size, and length you want. Larger mount and plastic sheathed cables will be more expensive.

Hard to say on salvaging your existing cable without seeing it. Is the shell bare spiral wire or plastic sheathed? I have used penetrating oil along the length of bare spiral wrapped wire ones to free them up and occasionally following up with a coating of chain and cable lube. Plastic sheathing makes it, so you need to pull the inner cable out to get lube through it. You need to determine if that will work on yours.

 

[TomIn]

I also would assume that a choke cable is a choke cable. My existing cable (which I assume is the original, but who
knows?) is bare spiral wrapped. The picture on the John Deere Parts site shows the same. The only pictures I have found
of aftermarket cables show plastic sheathed, but may be stock photos rather than the actual item being sold.

I haven't had much luck with parts store employees on generic items. A search of online sites for parts stores suggested
that many chains no longer handle choke cables. The sites which listed choke cables didn't provide much information. It
seems that non vehicle specific cables are all much longer than the factory cable. I assume that they could be cut. Rock
Auto seems to show three different diameter cables with knob ends. Even more diameters are available with a T handle or
ball handle.

My tractor is stored in a pole barn without electricity. I can't see much when I am trying to start the tractor. I've
reached the age where I can hide my own Easter eggs, so I forget all about the choke after I finally get the tractor
running, and don't try to look until the next time I try to start it. Now that I'm at my city home about a hundred miles
away from the tractor I remember my choke problems.

 

[Jim.ME]

If it is bare spiral wrapped outer shell, before buying another cable, I would soak the shell with penetrating oil and get it working free again. Then start applying chain and cable lube or motor oil to it.

 

[TomIn]

From what I remember, I could only see about 3 of the cable back from the knob. I have no idea of how the cable is threaded
through and around stuff. It is likely to be a booger to remove and reinstall without further kinking something. It might
not hurt to soak the shell in vinegar for a couple of days before going with oil.

 

[Brownie450]

I used a piece of electric fence wire from the carb
through a convenient hole on the left side of the
kick plate, & made a loop in the end of it.
I put a small spring from the choke lever on the carb
to a solid place up by the governor. This pulls the
choke off. This is on a 4020, but would maybe work
on other models as well.
Jim

 

[dmk1957]

I had the same problem a few years ago. I took it apart, got it freed up and liberally lubed it. Then I encased the first few inches in some small diameter hose to protect it from all the white junk that seemed to accumulate in the area, as it's directly under the battery box. It gave me no trouble after that.