317 Drive Shaft

[MCL]

I suppose you all will be hearing a lot from me since I bought this 317. I'm usually on the Oliver board but can't afford an Oliver mower. Anyhow, what's involved in changing the u-joints and/or the entire drive shaft on a 317 mower? I'm talking about the main drive shaft from the engine to the rear end. Looks like the u-joints are shot. Thanks for any help.

 

[Scott in SC]

MCL,

Check out Weekend Freedom Machines, tons of info there. This is the link to the Resto and Repair page for Hydro GTs. Use the search feature, you should find all the info you need.

http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/discus/messages/17/61368.html?1352685998

Scott

 

[Anonymous-0]

The shaft for a 317 is not repairable. The u-joints aren't greasable either. Don't know why they did this. Last time I bought one from Deere I think it was around a hundred bucks but that's been a few years ago. You have to take the fender off to remove a roll pin in the tranny shaft. You also have to remove four bolts in the flywheel that holds the stub shaft on. I think you also have to take out out the motor mount bolts to have enough clearance to get the shaft off the tranny. Use some never seize on the stub shaft when it goes back together. There isn't much axial movement but when things warm up the bearings can start to see a thrust load if the stub shaft is froze in the driveshaft.

 

[Scott in SC]

Someone on WFM has repaired a 317 shaft. I believe they used universal joint cups available form McMaster-Carr. Not sure I would go to all that, or just r&r the shaft. Once again, tons of info on the WFM site.

Scott

 

[Roger H]

I put in a new shaft a couple years ago, 180 bucks from Deere & the new one is greasable

 

[MCL]

Price of new shaft at local Deere dealer yesterday $224. I didn't buy it.