3910 FORD TRACTOR

[Texasmark]

There are two manuals listed in the parts section here;1983-1985 and 1987-1990(series2) $29.95 ea.

I would imagine that the Series II signification is for the last years of production.....otherwise why go to the expense of the decal signification?

 

[used red MN]

The series II which has a decal right where your Series II does, signifying that yours is a Series II and the latest models of the series manufactured in the end of the 1980's as another guy has indicated herein. You have the upgraded transmission....don't recollect what they called it nor how it operates. As stated previously, mine are 8 speeds, 4 gears in each range, shifting sticks on top of the tranny. Why is the model year important to you? You need to order parts? What parts?

His tractors identity crisis has been solved in earlier replies you evidently skipped when reading this thread. You were even one of the ones replying with information. Do you happen to know anything about the current question he is asking about concerning his starter in reply 39?

 

[Texasmark]

i have returned with starter problems on my ford 3910. the solenoid for starter is bad. should i remove starter to replace it.the solenoid is mounted on the starter thanks. Don

I have removed few starters over the years.....Obviously the first thing is to disconnect the negative battery terminal. The Fords starters (recalling) use 3 screws to mount them to the main casting. An extension with a socket and suitable ratchet wrench is how you get to the hidden one on the back side....extension has to be long enough to get the ratchet out behind the starter main body.

Obviously after disconnecting the battery, the wiring is removed and then you can go after the starter. If you can undo the 3 screws and wiggle the starter out, then do it then attack your Bendix. If not, with the starter out of its mounted position, you can rotate it to get at the screws holding the Bendix in place and get the solenoid off and then remove the starter.

Why do you think your Bendix is bad....several alternative problems:
1. Battery doesn't have enough voltage and low enough internal resistance to spin the starter fast enough to start the engine.
2. Wiring between the battery and the starter has corroded/loose terminations that need to be removed, shined up, light oil coating and torqued back in place.
3. Bendix shaft is dirty and dry....needs a cleaning and some light oil so that it can move freely.
4. Spring on the Bendix is defective/broken.

Gonna bet you that the only time I had starter problems over and beyond what I just said was a 1963 Ford 4 cylinder diesel that the bearings (copper inserts) within the shafts of the starter's armature were so worn that the body of the starter shorted out to the frame wiring. To get it to start you had to turn on the key, push the start button, and smack the starter with a hammer to cause it to vibrate...move off its shorted surface and in that instant it would start spinning.....Unless you have 10k hours on your tractor I'd bet suggestion 1 through 3 will solve your problems with 1 and 2 being the best choices..... Good Luck and keep us posted.

 

[Texasmark]

His tractors identity crisis has been solved in earlier replies you evidently skipped when reading this thread. You were even one of the ones replying with information. Do you happen to know anything about the current question he is asking about concerning his starter in reply 39?

Thanks for the heads up. Hope the other post I just finished solves his problem.

 

[Destroked 450]

Before I pulled the starter to replace the solenoid I’d check the neutral safety switch connections first

 

[Texasmark]

Before I pulled the starter to replace the solenoid I’d check the neutral safety switch connections first

I've had too many Fords to remember which did what but my 3910 is on the range lever (right side lever) where earlier Fords like my 2000 has it on the left....forgot which the 3600 has, probably tracks the 3000 method as the 3600 is just an upgraded 3000. Once I had a Ford with an intermittent switch and found that the shift lever protrusion, designed to close the switch when that shifter was in N, didn't fully depress the ball bearing that activates the switch. I think I put a flat washer under it to raise it up so that the shifter could push the switch down far enough to make reliable contact.

 

[paul]

I had the little copper strap between the starter and the solenoid get loose, pitted, and sooted. Being hidden on the back side of my starter, I chased a lot of different issues before I found what the problem was. It would work for a week, then not work for a day or two. Very intermittent I tried 10 different things, always thought, oh now I found it…

Finally it gave trouble while in a dark shed and I saw the sparking. Took longer to take off and put on the nearly hidden nuts than it did to polish up the ends of the copper strap and seems to be working since. I think, oh now I found it….

But there are 100 things it ‘could’ be. If I need the tractor to work I take the starter off and take it to the one remaining machine shop in town that still rebuilds starters and generators. Then it’s all brought up to good shape and is dependable for years again.

Paul

 

[Texasmark]

I had the little copper strap between the starter and the solenoid get loose, pitted, and sooted. Being hidden on the back side of my starter, I chased a lot of different issues before I found what the problem was. It would work for a week, then not work for a day or two. Very intermittent I tried 10 different things, always thought, oh now I found it…

Finally it gave trouble while in a dark shed and I saw the sparking. Took longer to take off and put on the nearly hidden nuts than it did to polish up the ends of the copper strap and seems to be working since. I think, oh now I found it….

But there are 100 things it ‘could’ be. If I need the tractor to work I take the starter off and take it to the one remaining machine shop in town that still rebuilds starters and generators. Then it’s all brought up to good shape and is dependable for years again.

Paul

On the 2000 I mentioned, I had a neighbor that overhauled them for a living in his shop on his farm. When I went there to get it, he put it in a vise and hit the switch. Jumped to life. I was really disappointed when almost immediately, the same problem I experienced earlier returned.

On seeing the spark.....sometimes you just get lucky. Has happened to me several times.

 

[Don burden]

what part of texas do you live texas mark. you sure know a lot about old ford tractors thanks for all your input.

Don burden cedar hill texas

 

[Texasmark]

what part of texas do you live texas mark. you sure know a lot about old ford tractors thanks for all your input.

Don burden cedar hill texas

75424

 

[Don burden]

75424

 

[Texasmark]

am truly thankful for all that have helped in this model number chalange.it runs great. at 93 yrs of age and no cell phone my curosity is still present .

a friend has repaired many problems with my 3910. i can barely wait to mow again

Thanks to all
Don in Texas

Good luck Don

 

[Texasmark]

It's not over till it's over...........: I looked back to find the post that discussed the safety switch not functioning but I can't find it???>>?>??>>? I THINK I recall having a problem with my 3910 when I bought it. It was an '89 model as I recall and when testing to buy it I had a problem getting the starter to engage. After the purchase and upon getting it home, I realized that the switch wasn't getting pushed down far enough....on a tractor with 900 hours....... I forget the particulars but I put a flat washer somewhere in that mechanical circuit to force the ball that is pushed by the Range Lever to execute starting to be higher so that the lever could do a better job of depressing it.

On the copper strap, I recently had a tractor (with 7 I forget which) with intermittent starter engaging problems also and found that the strap was the problem like is mentioned somewhere up above in this posting.....can't find that reference either.....maybe I need to quit this and go wash the dishes! Ba Humbug....house chores.....Pffffffft.

I removed it, burnished it and the nuts and washers in the circuit and put it back ensuring the nuts were tight. Solved that problem.