401 motor oil from exhaust

[Fritz Maurer]

there is no turbo. and there was no seals on any valves

If there was no dampness in the combustion chamber, I don’t think run it hard applies here, if you have oil in the manifold and nothing inside. Seals on the exhaust stems may be the cure.

 

[buickanddeere]

I checked how far down the valves would go before pulling the head with piston at TDC and had .150/.160 inch travel. The Ford info I had shows where they want the SEATS at, but not the valves. The pistons at TDC are .010 below deck too. The exhaust closing/intake opening overlap at TDC there's still .035/.040 clearance, fine for a governed engine. Tractor still does not start as well cold as the 6000 tractor drive toy though, it will start at thirty degrees with no help at all. Valves are flush on that head if I recall, and the block deck was cut too but those pistons do have valve relief pockets also. Grinding valves and seats on gas heads won't change the CC compression much, but WILL change a lot on a diesel engine when valves are sunk too much.

As a general rule . The pistons should rise flush to the deck

 

[Bern]

As a general rule . The pistons should rise flush to the deck

That's for turboed engines. For non-turbo engines, the spec is .011-.023" above.

 

[showcrop]

Well, I ended up taking the head apart and finding that it had no seals on it whatsoever. So I installed new valve seals. also dropped pan and pulled all 6 pistons out. Even though all the rings looked fine to me, I decided to install new ones to be sure. I honed the cylinders with a ball hone and installed the pistons back in. Ring gap was good, and the rings spaced correctly. I installed a mechanical temp gauge in the head (replacing the electrical sender), and also installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the block under the oil filter. I'm just about ready to fire the tractor up for the first time. Does anyone have a more specific break in process than just "run it hard"? I do not have a dyno or access to one locally. It's also not a good time to get out and pull a plow around. Any other suggestions?

Correct break-in on a dyno consists of maybe 4 stages, something like 10 min at idle, check for leaks, twenty min at 30 % power, one hour at 60 % one hour at 90%. This is an approximation. don't do this. I got it out of the manual to my 9000 which I don't have any more, but you can get a shop manual on line which will tell you.