4010 24V SYSTEM

[bv]

If you change a 4010 over to 12 v system with alternator what all has to change and can the same wiring harness be used or not?
Does anybody have a 4010 with a factory cab they can post pictures on here?

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Starter is the expensive item

Remove the voltage regulator

Decide if you are using original battery locations and if so remove the midpoint ground and make a chassis ground cable that to both battery negatives and you will similarly connect the positives in parallel.

My 4020 has a replaced wiring harness from the 70s

If it was me I’d buy a harness for your 4010 from brillman setup for the 10si

Both standard and row crop it would be b3028-205 as the part number for the engine harness and that should be all you need. It’s 284 dollars and but then it’s done right no splices nothing that would rub.

If you do the whole tractor the lighting harness is a different part number for the standards

The good news is all the lights were 12 volt so no need to mess with that if they work but you have some high dollar choices to make

 

[Tx Jim]

One can use the original 24 volt wiring harness by attaching both brown & blue wires that were originally attached to 24 volt starter to top post on 12 volt starter solenoid. If one wants fuel gauge to operate correctly then fuel gauge must be changed to a negative ground fuel gauge similar to 4020's after serial # 201,000

 

[JD Dave]

The factory did not offer a cab on a 4010. Any cab on a 4010 is a gypsy aftermarket contraption. If your cheap and lazy and your 24 volt system is working, you may not need to switch to 12 volt.

 

[miangus]

I like the 24-volt system. I think the tractors start better. I find keeping a small maintainer battery charger on the right-side battery on my 24-volt 3020 helps when letting it set for long periods. I know time to clean the starter housing again. The original fuel gauge cannot be made to work, as suggested you need the late model gauge.

 

[bv]

I like the 24-volt system. I think the tractors start better. I find keeping a small maintainer battery charger on the right-side battery on my 24-volt 3020 helps when letting it set for long periods. I know time to clean the starter housing again. The original fuel gauge cannot be made to work, as suggested you need the late model gauge.

I just bought this tractor and it's all original but the 24v turns the tractor over good, I've never had one of these so I didn't know what problems to expect since you can read all kinds of negative stories about them so I will leave it factory for now, since it's a late 63 model I assumed the cab was factory but if it's not I believe it's been on the tractor about it's whole life based on how good the steering wheel and gauges look.
Thanks for all the input.

 

[Tx Jim]

I like the 24-volt system. I think the tractors start better. I find keeping a small maintainer battery charger on the right-side battery on my 24-volt 3020 helps when letting it set for long periods. I know time to clean the starter housing again. The original fuel gauge cannot be made to work, as suggested you need the late model gauge.

Batteries & 12 volt starters are much more powerful today than in 1961-1968!!!

I'll guess I understand JD 24 volt systems much better than the average older tractor owner. If I owned a JD tractor with a 24 volt system the very first time that 24 volt system gave me any problems I'd change it over to 12 volt system with a gear drive starter & alternator.

One major drawback to JD 24 volt system is not many choices of 24 volt alternators are available for installation & """having to keep electrical draws virtually equal on circuit A & circuit B"" for generator to keep batteries successfully charged.

That fact would make something similar to a rd baler monitor difficult to have electrical power supplied from a JD 24 volt system.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

If it does work and you do like it I would put a maintainer on it like suggested they like to eat those skinny batteries from not charging the best is their biggest flaw

One maintainer on each battery is an option as well

I personally have never seen one work well enough to like it. The midpoint ground causes frustration as well if you add any electrical accessories (mine has radar and a seed monitor for a small popcorn and mistake planter, the first electric 24d sprayer he made is what originally got mine switched from talking to grandpa) you likely will blow the fuse unless you wire directly to the top of the left (verify with your meter) battery and use your own inline fuse as I believe the midpoint originally it’s 20 amp and your lights get you most of that. It’s an overly complicated setup that isn’t necessary. Using the chassis to ground when jumping isn’t the best idea either. Or jump starting it in general it’s a take the batteries off and charge both. And verify the midpoint is good while you are there. It’s ok if you know what you are doing going in and a nightmare once issues creep in if you don’t. They generally show up here with 2 dead batteries get pushed in the shop with a forklift and the owner has the same question as your original post.