4010D hard to start

[bkllv]

i posted a question for help on a hard starting 4010d a month back and got a lot of good suggestions. thanks to all.

but after using the tractor for a month, i have got the wild idea that maybe the pump is turned up on this tractor and the excess fuel is putting the fire out or flooding the engine during cold start. i still suspect low compression could also be a problem but have been told if compression is bad, the engine would be hard to start hot also. when my tractor is hot, it starts right up. furthermore, while parked in the shed, if you revved the engine a few times, there would be enough fumes in a 30x50 that i would have to leave they burned my eyes and choked me so bad. lots of excess fuel i think.

does anyone know how to adjust the pump back to factory? it is a roosa master 4af.

thanks.

 

[Bob]

I have a 4020 with an M&W turbo.

For cold starting, it starts best at about 1/3 throttle.

Less than that, there's not much "smoke and fire", much MORE throttle than that, and it DOES seem to overfuel.

So, if that's your only "beef" with the fuel rate, try starting it at a lesser throttle position.

The "smoke screw" that limits injection plunger travel is accessable though the pump's "top" (side, in this application) cover.

The engine has to be rotated 'til the "smoke screw" is accessable (directly in line with) the access hole in the pump's cam ring.

Turning the little screw a very small fraction of a turn CCW will limit plunger travel, and reduce the maximum fuel rate.

Myself, I'd rather not mess with it, as I doubt it will help your problem, which may be caused by poor rings, or "valve recession".

The proper way to set the max fuel rate screw would be to set it to the desired HP, with the aid of a dyno.

 

[WTW]

Sir,
Leave your injection pump alone as you will make your problem worse than it is. Extra fuel when starting a diesel engine will help not hinder. No offense but who ever told you that your problem is not compression because your tractor will start good when it is warm knows nothing about a diesel engine. Does your tractor smoke when you start it warm like it does when you start it cold? Of coarse not that's because it is burning the fuel when it is warm. The tractor is getting the same amount of fuel delivery when it is warm as it would if it was cold. Fuel delivery is not your problem. Here is what's happening. Diesel engine combustion takes place when fuel is injected into a heated up combustion chamber. The heat in the cylinder/combustion chamber is created by compression of air in the cylinder. If compression is low, the heat required to ignite the injected fuel spray is not created resulting in unburned fuel. Your problem is compression. The reason the tractor starts better or good when warm is you have the engine already warm, as air travels through it to the cylinders to be compressed it is being warmed up and when it is compressed it is already partially heated up and the low compression engine is aided in getting it heated up to where it needs to be to ignite the injected fuel spray. To start a cold diesel engine the engine "must" have the ability to build enough heat by means of compression to ignite the fuel injected spray or it will not start cold. You tractor is not building enough heat when cold at a cranking RPM or it would start. Not saying I know any more than the next good diesel mechanic but I can make a John Deere diesel engine start in the cold and have been rebuilding them since 1977. If you know your cylinders (sleeves and pistons) are in good shape or they have been recently replaced I would bet that your problem is incorrect valve recession in your cylinder head. Its either one or both that will fix your concern. Good Luck, DW

 

[bighead]

I agree with everything that WTW said. Having worked on diesels for a mere 12 years, myself (four of them Deere), I agree that your problem is verly likely compression. Worn/sloppy injector nozzles are another possibility, but compression is by far the most likely.

I really wouldn't suggest that you mess with the fuel screw unless you have a dyno handy. If you do, then at least mark it and count the turns so you can put it back where it was when this doesn't resolve the starting problem.

You're not seeing "too much fuel". You're seeing "too much unburnt fuel".

 

[LarrySTN]

If your 4010 doesn't smoke excessively under full load, then reducing the injection rate will NOT help cold starting only hinder it. Most of the 30 and 40 (4430 4630 4440 4640 4840) series tractors went into excess fuel mode strictly for starting purposes. It is possible that injection timing might be to blame, especially if your 4010 has never had a fuel pump update to include internal injection advance. Without internal advance the tractor starts hard (cold) if timed for power. I believe no 4010's had internal advance from the factory. Most were updated.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I think you are going to have to replace the old 4af, load advance pump, with an updated speed advance pump. I am surprised, that any of the old load advance pumps have survived 45+years. John Deere did have a program to pay for part of the conversion, but I think you are 40 years late to take advantage of the program. These pumps had timing problems from day one.

The 4af pump times at 13° BTDC, the update pump times at 8°, the 4020 times at top dead center. With any wear at all in the pump drive train, the pump cover will hit the block before you can get the 13°. Somebody may have tried to time for the wrong pump.

You may well have a compression problem, but I think you have to get it in time first, to stop the smoke from burning your eyes, and then see how it starts.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Bob, with the 4010 M&W turbo, I have one also and would like to ask you some questions. Do you have an email address.

Thanks
Gary