4020 early vs late model

[Anonymous-0]

Why do people hold so much value to the "late" model 1970-1972 4020 over the early model 4020? OK yeah I know that the hydrolics were on the right next to the seat as apposed to the left hand dash, but what else...
Here is what I know...

1)12V over 24 V...big deal just change the starter...
2) starts with a key switch
3) hydrolics on the side next to seat instead on dash.
4)engine has egg shaped muffler and 5 more hp.

thats it...so why are these thing 35% to 40% more in price? Is there anything I am over looking?

 

[Anonymous-0]

I don't know, could be that they are just a little bit newer and cleaner. Trust me, this year the clean 69's and older are going to sell dear (not Deere). Grew up with a 71 4020 powershift that was traded for a new 4240. As I recall we got $2400 for trade in. I wouldn't be supprised if new 90 HP tractors can be had for less that clean 4020s this summers. In case it matters, at my uncles auction in 1999 the 4240 went for $ 13400. We are not bright people.

 

[Bob]

The PTO clutch apply system in the later synchro tractors is 100% different, as well. I'm NOT sure if that IS a benefit, though!

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have early and late 20 series Deere. Having the controls on the side does make them alot handier to operate. Just a very natural position for the hyd controls when your turned slightly in the seat operating an implement. Even my IH buddies have commented that its nice. Then again, with closed center hyd system its easy to mount a valve on the fender and make a side console (of sorts) out of an early model if you want. I actually prefer the PTO engagement on the early models.

 

[billonthefarm]

There are alot of things that are nicer on the later tractors, but like you, I question the added value. One of my observations has been that as a group it seems the later tractors would seem to be in better overall condition. I wonder if that isnt part of what we are seeing. I wonder how many of those tractors advertised for big money really bring it. To replace a 4020 you would have to look at a tractor that would list for around 45 grand and you might not have as good a tractor so that is solid price support. I figure a good 4020 is worth good money and a junker isnt, console or not.
bill

 

[Anonymous-0]

Granted, any 4020 is overpriced beyond reason, but if your going to spend too much, you might as well spend it on the most user freindly model.

12V with factory alternator VS nightmare 24V with generator.
Think about it, from what you have seen on this form, how many potential 4020 owners have the skills necessary to do a neat and reliable 24V to 12V conversion ? most would rather buy it already done with factory parts .

Starts with the key ?? even my 64 4020 does that ??

Hydraulics on the side, not only easier to operate, but if you run any hydraulic motor application where you need control the hydralic flow, early units are a real PITA to adjust requiring tools in a place that almost requires a midget to reach, while on the late units, flow adjustment is as simple as moving a control knob.

Oval muffler ? well, if your going to look at a muffler all day, it's easier to look at one thats 1/2 as wide.

Many people are willing to pay 40% above an already rediculous price to get these user friendly improvements, I suspect.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Well converting to 12 volts is really simple to me being that I am an Electrical enegineer...the only functioning thing that is electrical on this tractor is the starter.

As for the hydrolics I am still not quite sure what you mean...But can't I just convert that over to the late model controls? it seems simple as a bolt on upgrade.

The engine wouldn't a late model engine just bolt right in the place of the old one I have?

 

[thurlow]

early vs. late........I suppose it's what you're used to. We (my Dad, actually) bought a new one in '65 and another in '67. I've still got both of 'em. Nearly all the early ones......around here, anyway......only had one hydraulic circuit. At that time, we didn't need the additional one(s). There's no telling how many thousands of hours I've spent sitting half-crossways in the seat watching a hay baler, silage cutter, 5 (and also 6, at times) bottom plow, planter, mower and all the other tasks we used them for. I'll choose the convenience of the dash-mounted lever every time; your left hand just falls to it naturally. I've also got 2 more of the things (4020s) and one of them is late model. For loader work, the side levers work better........for me. PTO clutch.....the early ones were bullet proof; all mechanical. As far as the 12v vs. the 24; I guess it just depends on whether you understand...... or care to learn....... how they work. I don't go to the dealer much anymore since I no longer farm but I was always vastly amused when I'd step up to counter and ask for a part and the parts guy would ask, "Early or late model"? Invariably there'd be some yuppie type waiting and you could see the wheels turning thinking, "Late model 4020; I thought they quit making those 40 years ago."

 

[Anonymous-0]

Later ones:
1) Keyed shut-off
2) redesigned block and pistons--start better in cold weather
3) 12 system w alternator
4)"console" hyd
5) much better SCV's--easier to adjust, rebuild, swap out, etc--this is not a simple "bolt-on" conversion
6)Nicer dash more guages/idiot lights
7)oval miffler, square intake manifold
8) hyd engaging pto
9) Many more parts interchange w 30/40/50/55 series
This is just off the top of my head--I'm sure someone else remembers more than me. They are a far nicer tractor. The 1972's have increased value just because they are the last year. Now, if you want to collect one, I'd get a 4000--much rarer

 

[Anonymous-0]

The hydraulic flow adjustment thing is that if you run an impliment that has a hydraulic powered pump (sprayer) or hydraulic powered fan (air seeder, Herbicide / fertilizer spreader, you need to control hydraulic flow in gallons per minute, to within a fraction of 1 GPM to run the pump /fan at exactly the correct speed.

On an early 4020 with the hydraulic control valves in the dash, adjusting the hydraulic oil flow involves reaching across the hot exhaust manifold and up under the hood with both hands operating a wrench and screw driver to adjust oil flow.

On a late model side console 4020, adjusting hydraulic oil flow is as simple as turning a knob on the rear mounted SCV valve/coupler.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Of the four years of console models built from 1969 through 1972, the 71 and 72 models are more desirable other things being equal. These two years have the type D injection pump whereas the older models have the type C pump for which parts are no longer available. It is costly to change over because all of the injector lines need changed as well.

 

[rexhellwig]

The later 4020 PTO is inferior to the older ones.

If you want a 4020 for PTO work, stick with a '68 or earlier.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Well that wuld be ALL the more reason to stick with a early model right there!!!

 

[Scott 730]

(quoted from post at 07:38:31 03/17/08) ...the only functioning thing that is electrical on this tractor is the starter.

What about these items????????????????


1. All the lights, idiot lights included

2. Fuel gauge and sender

3. Generator or alternator

4. Ammeter or volt gauge

etc,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

There's alot more to change to convert from 24v to 12v than a starter.

 

[D-C-741]

There are Better Tractors Than John Deere,every one I know ,doesn't Own them, They Burn A lot More Fuel Than Other Makes,$4. A Gallon Will Make You Guys A little Smarter when it Hits you Wallet !!!!!!!!!!!! 4020's are ok .

 

[Anonymous-0]

Despite what "smarter" people have told me, I haven't found my Deeres harder on fuel than other makes.

 

[Anonymous-0]

That pto valve alone on the late 4020's is $600.

 

[K.B.-826]

The SCV's (hyd. valves) are totally different. On the early model, they were mounted under the hood. On the late model, they are mounted on the rear of the rockshaft housing and are fed though passages in the rockshaft housing. Would easily cost several thousand to convert. The late SCV's are very easy to remove and rebuild, and Deere continued to use that same basic SCV until the last 60 series tractor was built in the early 1990's. The early valve on the otherhand, I've seen very experienced Deere techs fight those things all day.

 

[Anonymous-0]

There wasn't an ammeter. Besides an ammeter is NOT voltage sensitive and a voltmeter is a useless gadget that gives no useful information.

All the accessories and lights ran on 12 volts, some on plus 12 volts, some on -12 volts because the battery center was grounded.

Yah, you need a new alternator or generator when changing from 24 to 12 volts. Its in the kit that Deere will happily supply.

Sometimes the fuel gauge set up for -12 volts reads differently on +12 volts. But it does work. I changed my gas 4020 from positive to negative ground and the fuel gauge still works.

Gerald J.