4020 Park/Brakes

[Anonymous-0]

Is there a way to add some type of device to lock the brakes on a 4020 w/powershift? The other day I parked it on a small incline, left it running in park. Went to get a hitch pin and when returned I noticed it moved a little. I made the assumption that I didn't get it all the way in park and dismissed it as an error on my part. Well, today it did it again and I know it was fully engaged in PARK. This is a little unnerving as there are many times I stop on inclines and rely on park to hold the tractor in place while hooking things up, etc.. I would feel much safer if I could lock the brakes. Any suggestions?

 

[Mike M]

That's why I don't like those old power shifts !!!! One way the pawl gets forced in tighter and the other it gets forced out. Kinda surprized you don't here about more people getting killed by them.

First off make sure your linkage is all freed up and adjusted and tighten up any worn out parts this may ? help. Other than that I wonder if you could get a hyd. brake lock like used on tow trucks and plumb it in ? I think J.C. Whitney sold them. Might be able to build up some kinda gizmo to flip and hold the brake pedals down ?

 

[Anonymous-0]

Probably need to replace the park cable. It's binding in the housing and not allowing your tranny to go into park.

 

[JD@Antique Acres]

I will second what Maark posted. I had a similar problem with my 4020 and the cause was a faulty cable.

 

[Wilsonfire]

I once drove an old Autocar Diesel that had a 3 foot long wood lever attached to the dash with a notch cut out to fit over the brake pedal. Push down hard on the brake, flip the lever up/down to hold the pedals fast. Never failed but looked liked H. It even passed inspection. I guessed it helped that someone had carved and stained it.

 

[rexhellwig]

Forget about any "engineering" on the brakes. For this idea to work, those 40-year-old o-rings are going to have to seal 100%. 99.999% isn’t good enough.

Fix the cable and/or the pawl now and get rid of this hazard... before it gets rid of you. The cold oil drag characteristics of these transmissions make a malfunctioning park mechanism even more dangerous.

 

[almrm]

As I have posted before, I could not get this problem solved on my 3020PS. I ended up trading it off. In my case, the park function worked better if the tractor was completely full or slightly overfull of trans-hydraulic fluid. I realize the park is mechanical but I believe the hydraulic pressure to move the tractor is better balanced forward to reverse when it is full full. The park also held better when the tractor was off.

My primary tractor usage is for making hay. This park failure was very frustrating and dangerous when changing tools everyday, stopping to trouble shoot, etc. My farm also happens to be very hilly. I realize this is an antique site and at times we dis the new stuff, however, my 5520 cab model has been a great upgrade for my operation. I do still rake with the JD A. I would be proud to own another new generation tractor, but it will not be a power shift. BTW the power reduction for a powershift is 5 HP or 7.8% on a 3020. My two cents.

Regards

Mark

 

[Green Relics]

Leon W,
When I used to work on these tractors back in the good old days when these tractors weren't antiques, I would hear these complaints. The complaint usually was tractors parked on relatively level ground and the tractor would sit in place till it rolled slightly one way or the other and engaged the pawl that wasn't perfectly lined up when in was put in park at no fault of the operator, just the nature of the design. Now if the tractor is on an incline and rolls after the operator gets off, you definitely have an engagement problem which needs to be fixed soon before someone gets hurt. It's most likely a stiff cable or mis-adjusted. Now as these tractors are getting quite old with lots of hours it's also possible the engagement gear and or the pawl are worn or have chipped or missing teeth. Pull the pin at the shift lingage and see how free the cable is and confirm that your getting full engagement. If that is OK you going to have to pull the covers and take a look at the gear and pawl. Your probably not going to like what you see. It's a big job to fix but safety is paramount. Fix it before something bad happens.
John

 

[wilamayb]

To tell you how common your problem is..... I got on the first P.S. a couple days ago that I have ever been on that actually had a park. I've been on at least five others that didnt have a functional park.

My personal preference is a syncro unless you are doing all loader work. They are pretty tough. My late 4020 syncro has over 19000 hours logged on the meter, wearing out three engines and five clutches. It never had a loader until a couple months ago. I guess if my dad runs it much we can make that 5 clutches into a 6. He likes to do the half throttle in 5th gear using the clutch as a variable speed... LOL If he hasnt learned by now he'll never learn.. I guess?

Back to the PS... I'm with the others on getting it fixed if you are going to continue using it. A park you cant trust is a bad deal. My dad's saying is "if an 8 year old cant use it then it's time to fix it".