41 M stuck cam followers

[Central Illinois]

I have a 1941 Farmall M that I am just starting on. The owner wants me to get it running again. The engine has been stuck for at least 15 years and the tractor hasn't ran longer than that. At least it was in a shed. The engine has a lot of rusty crud in it from old oil sludge and condensation. It's the worse I have come across. When I put the tractor in gear and rock the tires I can see the fan slightly move back and forth so I know the crankshaft is trying to turn. I removed the rocker arms and pushrods. Then I removed the cam follower cover and found a real mess. All of the cam followers are rusted in pretty good. My question is have any of you ran into this and what did you try or do? I am planning on cleaning the area as best I can and using some pb blaster. I have a picture so you can see what I am talking about.

 

[rustred]

i would get the block bare bones and find a machine shop with a dunk tank, as it needs a good caustic soaking to get a good start on that mess. then after that you will need to bead blast it. then after that you can try and pound the followers out. then after that the bores may need to be touched up with a hone. its not looking good as it might just be best to get another block.
that thing looks like it sat with out any oil in the pan.

 

[Central Illinois]

Funny thing is the oil pan was full of oil and the radiator still had some coolant in it. The two didn't cross paths either. It reminds me of what the older automotive engines used to look like with the old formulation of Pennzoil. Then fast forward several years later to when that sludge was allowed to set there and here you go.

 

[Duner Wi]

I you had a big enough rubber cow watering tank I would use electrolysis.

 

[Andy Martin]

Do you even [i:c3170c77bb]have[/i:c3170c77bb] to water rubber cows?

 

[Duner Wi]

Not today! Been raining.

 

[Janicholson]

M blocks (even the correct casting dates) would be far more likely to lead to success than that one. The rust pits in the lifter bores and probable corroded size of the bores is a death sentence to my mind. Unless you have a driving desire to make that one happen, I would replace it in a heartbeat. Jim

 

[charlieu]

I sent you an e-mail this afternoon, I have a complete engine for a Farmall M that you may be interested in. The engine was rebuilt with new piston and sleeves and runs great. I'm parting the rest of the tractor. My e-mail is open.

 

[Tom Dowling]

thats really nasty looking,that blocks not worth the effort

 

[gab]

Unless the owner is stuck on having that one rebuilt, I'd look around, junk yards are full of Ms. I bought a Super M engine a few years ago for $500., came out of a tractor with a broken rear end housing and runs like a new one. You can't do much to that one for 500 bucks.

 

[Tom Fleming]

Well, that block is junk from my standpoint. As has already been stated, the lifter bores are heavily corroded, and would require being cleaned up, which then requires sleeves or custom lifters. There is at least $500 in just that part of the machining.

If a running M or SM engine can be had for $500 +/-, I would buy and buy it right now before investing any more time in the block pictured at the beginning of the thread.

Unless you want significant "bragging" rights that you resurrected this engine, let it die in peace...............salvage what you can from it, and scrap the block.

 

[Central Illinois]

I never received your e-mail so check and see if you got one from me. Thanks.

 

[charlieu]

I sent you another e-mail. My e-mail is also open. charlieu

 

[charlieu]

you could also give me a call 507-438-8172

 

[Central Illinois]

I'll try to give you a call. I can't seem to get the e-mail to work.

 

[Central Illinois]

I thought you guys would like to see what the bottom end looks like.

 

[Central Illinois]

Another one.