4230 Hard Starting

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I've just aquired a 1974 4230. The thing starts hard below 40 or 50 degrees, even at 75 it cranks for a bit. I've heard several comments about them not starting good, so I assume mine is not the only one, runs fine otherwise. Can someone tell me why they don't start easy?
 
The JD 4230 I have is hard starting as well and has only 2800 hrs (I usually squirt a little ether into air intake cover above the hood and that helps a bunch). I am not exactly sure what causes this, but I think it is the piston shape. Mine runs good after it starts and has lots of power. The head warped causing the head gasket to leak oil as of a few hundred hours ago and was planed to straighten it-this a common problem with JD 4230 heads I understand.
Nice tractor, but starts losy. Jd 4430's start much better-different injection system.
 
There was just a thread on here a few days ago about some one switching the way the battery cables were hooked up making it a shorter distance and heavier wire. You could search the archives.
 
The tractor makes 101hp. I think that is what they are rated for. Should i do a compression test or where they built this way for some reason? Tractor data shows 16.2:1. They show a 4020 at 16.5:1. Are these numbers right? Is that enough of a difference to cause the hard starting? If so what was Deere's idea behind this? Thank you for all the replies and sorry for all the questions .
 
So they came with different style pistons? What about the head, any differences there? I'm just trying to get it figured out how they are different than the 4020's. Thank you all again.
 
I have asked dozens of times over the past 12 years for the voltage across the starter WHILE cranking. This will prove either an engine or an electrical system fault(s).
Problem is 99.999% of the population is terrified of a multimeter and thier tractor. Only had one person reply ever and it was only for resting voltage which doesn't mean a whole lot.
Tractor owners would rather pay hundreds of dollars on batteries, alternators, cables and starters on random guesses. Looks like they have $$$ to spare.
Dad's 4230 after the electrical problems were repaired. It would start without ether or pre-heater after a few turns at 35F.
If it hasn't already been stated. Install a front pump de-stroker for less than $20.
 
I answered it. Mine had 3900 mowing real estate for sale pastures hours, so compression was not an issue. I guarantee you it made a new tractor out of it. It was fun to hear the bendix smack the flywheel and that sucker in 3 to 4 wraps just roared to life.

Mark
 
(quoted from post at 23:16:12 05/07/13) Who sells a 'front pump destroker'?

And how hard is it to install?

JD dealer AR33249(parts key #6) subs to the following part numbers. Remove plug and install DS screw.in frt hyd pump.

A4365R PACKING "O" RING View/Update 0.82 USD
R26448 O-RING, O-RING View/Update 1.46 USD
R27171 SCREW View/Update 7.37 USD 7.37 USD
R27475 BUSHING,ADJUSTING SCREW 5.28 USD
34H254 PIN, SPRING View/Update 0.33 USD
Parts that have an issue will display a flag. *Subtotal 15.26 USD
17410.jpg
 
On a side note, the 4020 with new higher compression pistons now starts in the 30s with a few cranks.

It was impossible to start before without plugging it in.
 
How is it that you are so concerned with the voltage when you falsely insist that the magnetic field comes from the amps? Think about it.
 
I was working For a Deere dealer when the 4230"s came out, Deere had a few different programs to solve the hard starting, most of them didn"t help,a couple different injectors were tried. The bottom line was the compression ratio was bad, the new improved pistons are the answer. It gets cold around here and I see very few de-stroke kits on anything,,we just rock the steering wheel a bit and that works out fine.
 
Same around here Tim. Nobody ever installs the kit.. If it takes that much cranking here in the south there's other things needing to be addressed..
 
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