4320 overhaul

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Okay, this may be a little long winded and may not belong here on this forum but what the heck. My neighbor has a 4320 that is starting to get a little long in the tooth. It has about 12000 hrs on it and the engine has never been touched. It still starts and runs decent but he is wanting to do a major overhaul on the engine. He wants me to do the overhaul. I have worked on a few 2 cylinder jds and a bunch of 4 cylinder IHs and several automotive engines and several small engines(maintain many small engines for a landscaping company) but never a 6 cylinder john deere. Is there anything on a 4320 that special interest needs to be taken on. The plan as of now is new sleeves,pistons,bearings,cam,turbo,pump,injectors. I will send the crank and head out to be checked and serviced. Basically, I just have to disassemble and reassemble. Is this engine as simple as most or are there places that often get overlooked overhauling this engine. Thanks for your help.
 
(quoted from post at 05:42:11 02/10/10) And be sure to use new rod bolts.

Be careful of the piston cooling nozzles when pulling out the culinder packs. You just need to be aware of them so you dont nick or damage them.
 
If it was mine, I would not overhaul it, but keep using it. Some of these engines have gone over 20,000 hours without overhauling.
 
check oil pump out as well as its mating gear to camshaft. With many hours they would get thin and after time strip out starving engine for oil pressure.
 
You must have missed my reply to you. I ALREADY have purchased the manual and have read it. I was asking a question to those who have previously worked on a 4320 engine to see if there is anything that must be done that is not listed in the manual. Contrary, to apparently your belief, not everything is listed in the manual!
 
I'm getting in here a little late, But When I O/H them I replace the wrist pins and have the rods re-sized, this is a good idea no matter what your re-building, that is a lot of hours so I would also check the oil pump drive gear and the cam shaft, I would feel better re-placeing both,of course all of the normal things need attention, take special care when cleaning out the liner o-ring grooves, I use a wire wheel with a 5/8 thread,a 12 inch 5/8 all-thread, along nut and thread it onto my big side grinder, let it 'hog' down into the groove, it cleans them up "nice", use dish soap on the liners when you install them,also leave the pistons in the liners, tap them down enough to get the wrist pins in (be sure the snap rings seat), and double check to be sure front is "front", these are nice engines to work on, keep it clean and watch your spec's and it will turn out good..
 
also don't have them just grind the valves, if they do grind or replces valves and or seats, have then replane the head to get the correct spec, makes a huge difference on starting when cold out
 
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