435 project pictures

[Anonymous-0]

Here are some pictures from my 435 project I did last winter and summer. It had a cracked block so I replaced it and did a complete rebuild of the complete motor and every other part on it. Finally got it running this fall and then started on the rest of the tractor. Did the hydraulics, front end, pto.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Sorry some of the pictures showed up a couple of times. It took 3 of us trying to get them posted and somehow they magically reappeared.

 

[buickanddeere]

I see you are fortunate enough to have the HD three rib fenders.
What all did you do with the engine during it's rebuild?

 

[Anonymous-0]

It's a long list of things, replaced the block, new sleeves and pistons, rings, crank was ground to far for new bearings but I lucked out and found a NOS one from a marine dealer in Cal., new rod and main bearings of course, ground the cam with new bushings, rebuilt oil pump, rebuilt blower, new fuel pump, rebuilt governor, rebuilt water pump, milled the head, new injector tubes and seals, new valves, valve guides and springs,new rebuilt injectors, reuilt starter and generator, air cleaner was shot, rebuilt the hydraulic pump, new gauges, new switches. The motor should be as close to new as can get. On the tractor I rebuilt the steering pedestal with new bushings, new front end pivot bushings, new tie rod ends, new spindle bushings and thrust bearings, rebuilt the touchomatic, new pto seals and bearings, new clutch lever bushings and new clutch plate, new bearing on the trans. input shaft. The only thing I haven't been into was the trans. itself and the brakes. This 435 has a Made in Mexico tag on it so I figured it for sure was worth all the extra I put into it. I'm not sure about the fenders being anything special. They aren't the heavy duty ones and I thought they maybe came off something else. I was really surprised when I went to start it that it fired right up and ran so nice. I might have got lucky there.

 

[S.Crum]

Nice job! I always wanted to take a 435 with a bad engine and put a 4-53 Detroit in it. Good common sense always seemed to jump in the way though.

 

[buickanddeere]

If those are good original Dubuque three rib HD fenders that's a rare find.
Which piston/sleeve kit did you use, which cam follower springs and which valve springs and which injectors? What style blower seals?

 

[Anonymous-0]

This was my first Detroit project so I learned as I went. I bought an overhaul kit from a place in Wy. that specialized in Detroits. I gave him the part numbers as I found them in my book so I ended up with the 17;1's. As far as the springs, again I gave him the part numbers. I see on the shipping order that they are listed as HD? I consulted a lot with a dealership here in town that works on the bigger Detroits for scrapers and such. They told me to go with the N40 or N45 injectors. They also helped with the blower rebuild. It had the old original type seals in it yet. They dug around till they found the procedure to bore the plates and put the new style seals in. I had to take it to a machine shop to have them cut it to take the seal. I will get a picture of them fenders. I know they are not the heavy duty ones that I have seen. I think they came off of something else. They do fit nice though and I may just leave them on it for now. I have rear tires to buy for it yet and then I will have my son run it through his body shop for a good paint job

 

[buickanddeere]

I wish I could have let you know a couple of things.
Good call on the blower, injector & spring updates.
You would toss 17 to 1 pistons in the junk if you had experience with the 21 to 1 N pistons.
I can hit the starter at 25F and on the 3rd turn she fires without a block heater or ether. Less smoke at idle too with the different piston bowl shape.
When going to larger than 35 injectors the rods need to be swapped for the piston cooling rods with the spray jet. Otherwise the pistons can get too hot and score the bore. Particularly as Deere speced their low power version of the 2-53 without an oil cooler.
I've got to go through the steering on mine. Have new bushings and seals for the piece behind the grill. Maybe that will get rid of the road wobble.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Yea, I didn't find out about the 21:1's till after I had these in. I'm not sure what your telling me about swapping the rods out though. Do they make different ones or do you inter change them? Later in the rebuild I found a guy from Ne. that did Detroits. He was helpfull also. I won't be using it a whole lot for heavy work so I hope what I have in it will work out. I am pretty sure I went with the N40's for injectors. It had N65's in it when I got it. Probably no wonder that it was all oiled up with that black gung.

 

[buickanddeere]

N65's would have it wet stacking with the two valve head and oilbath aircleaner.
They didn't make a factory four valve 2-53 head but I might know of one anyways. Dry aircleaner conversion. And N80 injectors that have the rack travel limited to about 2/3. Roughly the same flow as N55's but the spray time is shorter and occurs while the piston is higher in the bore.
Never did dyno it to see what she'd do. Guessing 60HP at 1850rpm.
The cooling rods for 40,45, 50, 55T & 60T have spray holes on the small end that cool the pistons. The rods for the 35's don't spray the bottom of the pistons.
If you happen to shred the ring & pinion. The R&P for a gasser 1010 below serial number 31,000 bolts right in and is much beefier. Slows all gears down 15% as well.
Swapping in the final drive gears from any 1010 after 31,001 is good for another 15% reduction in travel speed on top of that.

 

[greenmisterg]

Thanks for posting the pictures!! Looks like a NEW ONE...