460 sleeves

milo7890

New User
Was putting the sleeves in a 460 diesel today and all the sleeves are loose, as in light pressure to push them in all the way. I know they had different classes of bores(A,B,C,D) but was wondering everyones opinions on the loctite they use for sleeves. Was kinda worried about heat transfer? Use the tractor for mainly doing hay anymore but occasionally we have plowing bees and use it for that also. Opinions??
 
Loose sleeves in a diesel are going to crack off at the top flange and be sucked into the crank case. There will be opinions, but mine is to find sleeves that fit. Measure them, and see if you can find appropriately larger sleeves. LA Sleeve can make them (might have them) and they are very fine products. JimN
 
Sleeves in the D-236, D-282 and even D-281 in the 450 were a hand push fit. They never got any tighter as the blocks aged for sure. I honed many blocks out to accept the .002 over size sleeve to a nice light press fit like the gas engines had. If this is not an option, I would not get too concerned if it is a light duty machine. After all, they came that way from the factory. You need to pay close attention to flange protrusion and keep them all close to the same. This is not always as simple as it sounds due to variations in depth of counter bore. The very latest version of these engines went to a heavy press sleeve and a narrow flange. The head gasket did not seal on the flange on them but directly on the block like the D-361 etc. This of course brought on different types of problems as you needed to install sleeve with proper plate so flange did not contact the block or sleeve cracking occured.
 
Talked to a machine shop today and they said they use the loctite all the time on sleeves and never have any problems. Talked to a mechanic then at IH dealer and he said never use loctite cause it won"t transfer heat right and I"ll get scored pistons. Also said he"s never seen it before but thats what they told him in school. Has anyone used the loctite before in a diesel? It"s not like there loose and moving around, you have to push fairly decent to get them in, would think .001" would make them tight.
 
If you want them in permanently you can use the old timer iodine method. Get yourself a bottle of strong iodine. Coat the sleeves with iodine and install them. Make sure they are were you want them as the only way they are coming out is with a welder. The iodine rusts them in providing excellent heat transfer. I had a loose sleeve on my Super H that I iodined in, worked great.
 
You may have got away with it, But I didn't. My Dad and I put sleeves in our 460 D that went in easy And a few years later and not that many hrs on it dropped 1 sleeve into the crank case and all the holes in the block were egg shaped. I had to have the block bored and put oversized sleeves in it.
 
No, I didn't get away with it, IH did for many years. When we pulled heads on low hour tractors for head gasket replacement we just stuck our fist down in cyl and turned engine over to push sleeve up enough to add or remove shims to adjust sleeve flange height. I never said I approved of the loose sleeve but that is the way they were mfg. When you get several hours on engine and block becomes distorted beyond acceptable limits you need to correct that upon repairing. You have to realize when these engines were introduced that head gasket was advanced to a R6 in just the first year or so as we had lot of problems with them so many low hour engines were tore down. Oh, I have cleaned sleeves out of the oil pan also, some on engines that had not been taken apart previously. Mostly overfueled or turboed engines.
 
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