Why does that make you unhappy?I believe I texted you a video of how to adjust the timing by ear .........![]()
Too stiff of a governor spring can result in the spring not having enough travel to fully open the governor. The spring needs to be weak enough that it is not fully contracted before the governor fully opens the throttle plate. I had that on a Bosch diesel pump but the same principle would apply to any governor.I replace the governor in my 48 cub timed the governor installed the magneto.The tractor has great power except when I try to plow.I have no torque .How no I get more torque to plow without the tractor slowing down
If the original poster is the person I think it is I sold him the governor and a brand new (correct) springToo stiff of a governor spring can result in the spring not having enough travel to fully open the governor. The spring needs to be weak enough that it is not fully contracted before the governor fully opens the throttle plate. I had that on a Bosch diesel pump but the same principle would apply to any governor.
Assuming it's the Cub plow, designed for the Cub, the tractor should be able to pull it under most conditions.Any chance you are wanting more from the little Cub than its capable of delivering?
I think you have tghat wrong! The spring opens the throttle & the flyweights try to close it. To ADBToo stiff of a governor spring can result in the spring not having enough travel to fully open the governor. The spring needs to be weak enough that it is not fully contracted before the governor fully opens the throttle plate. I had that on a Bosch diesel pump but the same principle would apply to any governor.
You are correct on the spring function, but if the spring is too strong and you set the linkage to hold correct rpm at high idle, when you add load the spring can bottom out (fully contracted) before opening the throttle completely. Result - throttle not fully open under load.I think you have tghat wrong! The spring opens the throttle & the flyweights try to close it.
I always had enough power to pull my 12" plow until my governor broke.I just seen vedio on YouTube where the person said he would time the magneto for road driving advance timming and retard the timming for the tractor to work in the field.Is that correct?Any chance you are wanting more from the little Cub than its capable of delivering?
For cranking, the impulse is engaged needs to "trip" at or just after TDC.I always had enough power to pull my 12" plow until my governor broke.I just seen vedio on YouTube where the person said he would time the magneto for road driving advance timming and retard the timming for the tractor to work in the field.Is that correct?
Half of them u tube wanna be’s think they are mechanic’s that can teach other backyard mechanic’s while the mechanic laughs at how stupid they are. Engines have factory spec’s to follow. Sure u can advance the timing a couple degree’s , but geez u got to have a starting point. Set it to spec. Then u get a chizel and put a mark on the mag or dist and housing. Then u do your playing. Plus y don’t need a timing light to correctly set the timing to spec. U can use a test light , piece of paper in-between the points ,or even listen to the spark as the points open. A timing light is good to check the advance. Squatch has u tube stuff on rebuilds and his stuff is done according to the book. Very good video’s .I always had enough power to pull my 12" plow until my governor broke.I just seen vedio on YouTube where the person said he would time the magneto for road driving advance timming and retard the timming for the tractor to work in the field.Is that correct?
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