Good chance the carb is running to lean so it in turn backfiresI finally got my cub running.I STIL HAVE TROUBLE WITH GOVERNOR SETTING BUT NOW THE CUB BACKFIRES WHEN I INCREASE SPEED.what is causing it to back fire
When I adjust the carberator to 1 1/2 turns out it starts but if I turn more than 1 1/2 turns it does not start.Turning out makes it less lean correct?Good chance the carb is running to lean so it in turn backfires
My understanding is that Cub carbs have a set high speed jet, meaning no adjustment needle. The one idle mixture adjustment screw on that carb has nothing to do with the problem you have. That idle mixture screw is for adjusting for a smooth idle when the throttle plate is closed at idle. Once the throttle/governor opens the throttle plate the idle mixture circuit/passages in carb become ineffective. Have you checked if the mechanical advance is free in your distributor? Remove the distributor cap and with you thumb and forefinger twist the rotor clockwise with light force. It should twist forward against spring pressure with the tip of the spark blade moving about a quarter inch or so and then spring back when released.When I adjust the carberator to 1 1/2 turns out it starts but if I turn more than 1 1/2 turns it does not start.Turning out makes it less lean correct?
If the problem or blame is for sure in the carb you would have to first open the carb and make sure the main jet passages and the power nozzle are free of dirt or restrictions. If that doesn’t fix it you have to increase the size of the jet. Again, if you are nearly 100 percent convinced it a problem in the carb.So what you are saying I can not adjust whether the engine is running lean or rich.What causes the engine to backfire?. Could it be a faulty carberator
How I set up mine on Farmall C . I see 1/8 pipe plug on the cub manifold in photos. Connect vacuum gauge with the resources you have.What is the tune up port ? The exhaust on the manfold. How would I attach a vacuum gage
Is the engine actually backfiring or is it just stumbling (like not getting enough fuel) as you increase speed?So what you are saying I can not adjust whether the engine is running lean or rich.What causes the engine to backfire?. Could it be a faulty carberator
Okay, I ran through your previous post on your governor linkage pretty quick, I see you have a magneto. It will not have a fly weight mechanical advance I was asking about in my previous replies. It does however advance the timing from static once it starts. Basically if the impulse mechanism is free enough to operate the “advance drive position” comes in essentially when the impulse comes up to speed and the catch levers are held in by centrifugal force.moving the magneto a little off from where it clicks.
The engine starts at half throttle if I move it back to a lower speed it stops .When I move it to increase the speed the engine backfiresIs the engine actually backfiring or is it just stumbling (like not getting enough fuel) as you increase speed?
Once you get it up to full throttle does it work fine?
Does it backfire less once the engine is warmer?
Retarded or late timing can cause back fires and sluggish response. Advancing the timing would be the direction I would go as a possible remedy. If you don’t crank start it kick back is not as big of a concern as far as injury but it can damage starters. Pre ignition aka pinging is what to much advance will do this comes on under acceleration and heavy loads. Thatprobably won’t be a problem if it has stock pistons. A lot of advance also produces a “fluttery” idle.If I retard the timmig would that help or would cause me more problems
I would have to see their explanation to give any agreement to the that statement. If you have a higher compression ratio engine that may be true to a degree. In general retarded timing doesn’t give power, rather it lowers the propensity for pre ignition/ pinging. On the road the load is not constant figuring in hills, so on uphill it may ping but on the coast it would not so the cylinders and valves could cool off. I really don’t see the advantage of running the engine on the ragged edge. If everything on YouTube is the “gospel” we are in trouble.I seen on YouTube that to increase load for pulling or plowing you should retard the timming and for road driving advancing the timming.Now I am confused
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2025 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy