My first tractor - had it about a month. Diesel. Added about 1/2 gallon of fluid before I used it the first time last Monday for 2 1/2 hours pulling a brush hog. The entire time it ran almost in the red. Added approx. qt. of fluid on Sunday then ran for 4 1/2 hours mowing. Almost in the red again. I keep my eye on it. Is this normal? Do I need to replace the thermostat? Flush the sytem? Any ideas appreciated.
Sean in PA
Well-known Member
Are you seeing any water leaking out any where? Or steam, or white smoke in the exhaust?
Check the crankcase oil too, to see if you see any milky looking fluid mixed in, which would be water.
If you're not seeing any evidence of the coolant leaving the cooling system, you may just have a big pocket of air somewhere in the system that is working it's way out little by little.
I would start it cold with the radiator cap off, and run it for a while and keep topping it off as the level goes down. It should stop going down at some point or you should see evidence of the coolant leaving the cooling system somewhere.
Check the crankcase oil too, to see if you see any milky looking fluid mixed in, which would be water.
If you're not seeing any evidence of the coolant leaving the cooling system, you may just have a big pocket of air somewhere in the system that is working it's way out little by little.
I would start it cold with the radiator cap off, and run it for a while and keep topping it off as the level goes down. It should stop going down at some point or you should see evidence of the coolant leaving the cooling system somewhere.
There are several possible reasons for a diesel to overheat;clogged air filter, inoperative thermostat, plugged radiator(air side and/or coolant side), bad radiator cap, collapsed radiator bottom hose, and a loose fan belt. that's all I can think of at athe moment. Check these out systematically and you find it. Remember to not overfill your radiator. The upper part of the tank is for coolant expansion and if you fill it to the top, it will runout the overflow. Just fill it to about 1/4" over the core. makesure that you are using 50/50 antifreeze/water as a coolant.
Brian in MA
Well-known Member
Take the front grill off and look at the radiator for grease, grime, hay chaff, etc. I suggest degreasing and cleaning the outside of the radiator. I wouldn't have believed that could do it until I saw it myself on my 5600. Ever since I cleaned it 5 years ago, it has never run very far above the normal temp mark. That's one of the easiest solutions and I like to start with the easy stuff first.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I would remove the thermostat and test it in hot water to see if it is doing what it should.Process of elimination.
Come back if you don't know the procedure.
Come back if you don't know the procedure.
If you're filling it to the cap, then the amount you're adding is about what expansion will push out when the engine gets up to 'normal' operating temperature.
The first thing I'd do is blow the rad clean with an airhose.
The second thing I'd do is check the hoses aren't rotten and that the lower hose isn't collapsed.
The third thing I'd do is check the fan belt tension and condition. If it's worn down into the bottom of the pulley, replace it. While I was inthere I'd look VERY closely at the drain hole on the bottom of hte water pump to check for leakage and even a whitish/green powder draining down that would suggest evaporated coolant leaking from the pump drain. Check for play in the fan/pump bearings. If you find much or leakage, replace the pump NOW... before it destroys the rad and fan.
Next thing I'd do is open the rad cap when it's cool and let the engine warm up, then watch for circulation in the top tank. This will confirm if the thermostat is open and whether or nto there's good low there. You'll also be watching for blackening of the coolant or significant volumes of air bubbles that rapidly break to the surface. That could suggest a bad head gasket... but unlikely from what you describe.
I would also grab the top rad hose to see just how hot it is, or use a thermal heat gun to take a reading from it.
Lastly, I'd wonder about the heat gauge. They were known to read high because of a bad voltage stabilizer, especially if the fuel gauge is reading high. In other words, the tractor may not really be running hot...
Rod
The first thing I'd do is blow the rad clean with an airhose.
The second thing I'd do is check the hoses aren't rotten and that the lower hose isn't collapsed.
The third thing I'd do is check the fan belt tension and condition. If it's worn down into the bottom of the pulley, replace it. While I was inthere I'd look VERY closely at the drain hole on the bottom of hte water pump to check for leakage and even a whitish/green powder draining down that would suggest evaporated coolant leaking from the pump drain. Check for play in the fan/pump bearings. If you find much or leakage, replace the pump NOW... before it destroys the rad and fan.
Next thing I'd do is open the rad cap when it's cool and let the engine warm up, then watch for circulation in the top tank. This will confirm if the thermostat is open and whether or nto there's good low there. You'll also be watching for blackening of the coolant or significant volumes of air bubbles that rapidly break to the surface. That could suggest a bad head gasket... but unlikely from what you describe.
I would also grab the top rad hose to see just how hot it is, or use a thermal heat gun to take a reading from it.
Lastly, I'd wonder about the heat gauge. They were known to read high because of a bad voltage stabilizer, especially if the fuel gauge is reading high. In other words, the tractor may not really be running hot...
Rod
Wow! thank you all for the great suggestions. I have already removed debris from in front of the radiator, but did not blow it out. Also, for what its worth, the fuel guage always reads full (the tach works fine, but not the hour meter). I'll check the other suggsetions. Thank you ALL!
Bern
Well-known Member
- Location
- Mount Vernon, WA
If the fuel gauge always reads full, then your voltage stabilizer is haywire and is also causing your high temp reading.
It's located on the back side of the instrument cluster. It's the power source for the gauges.
I'm after forgetting what the voltage spec is... but I'm fairly sure it's under 10V output, so if you have one that's making battery voltage, you've got a bad one.
You best look at the NH parts catologue, either on newholland.com/na or google messicks NH and they have it online with their pricing.
That will give you an idea of what it's worth and what it looks like...
Rod
I'm after forgetting what the voltage spec is... but I'm fairly sure it's under 10V output, so if you have one that's making battery voltage, you've got a bad one.
You best look at the NH parts catologue, either on newholland.com/na or google messicks NH and they have it online with their pricing.
That will give you an idea of what it's worth and what it looks like...
Rod
Mmurphyhaygirl
New User
if tractor gets too hot will it quit? if the stabilizer is bad will the tractor not start?the heat gauge flucuates. does thermostat need replaced?
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Destroked 450
Well-known Member
- Location
- Harned, Ky
Pull the grill and wash thru the radiator
Then get a cheap thermometer gun and check radiator temps as your working it
The gauges will vary and most or not 100° accurate
Gauge on my 6600 runs right at the edge of the red line at operating temp, gauge on my 4000 is the same way and been that way for over 25 years
Now when either one goes into the red their getting hot
Then get a cheap thermometer gun and check radiator temps as your working it
The gauges will vary and most or not 100° accurate
Gauge on my 6600 runs right at the edge of the red line at operating temp, gauge on my 4000 is the same way and been that way for over 25 years
Now when either one goes into the red their getting hot
Mmurphyhaygirl
New User
i have cleaned the radiator inside & thru the outside. could the voltage stabilizer be bad? I read where if the fuel gauge stays at mostly full there is a problem. I've noticed lately it doesn't get much past 3/4 full & is actually close to empty.
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Bern
Well-known Member
- Location
- Mount Vernon, WA
Yes. Put a 12V test light on the gauge end of the voltage stabilizer and monitor it. If the light stays on steady after about 60 seconds or so, it's faulty. It should start flashing. If it's faulty, the fuel gauge will also read high.
Mmurphyhaygirl
New User
thankyou. would that make it hard to start?should all connections on the regulator have power?
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DanielW
Well-known Member
- Location
- Haliburton, Ontario
I can't offer much more advice to what was said: All the checks mentioned above are worth doing. I will add:
a) Just like Destroked, my 5000 runs right up next to the red at running temp. When it's in the red, it's getting hot. But my 6600 with pretty much the same cluster stays in the middle when at running temps. The IR thermometer will give you an idea what's going on. When performing other chores or just driving around, where does the needle sit?
b) Is it just a case of it loading down the 5000? Bush hogging is a very variable task. For cutting grass and clipping pasture, my father can zip around with a 5' bush-hog on his 8N just fine. But when we get into proper 'bush' hogging - dealing with heavy growth, small brush, and hawthorns, the 6' bush-hog can bring our 5000 or JD2120 to their knees. We're often having to crawl along in second gear, and on a hot day you really want your eye on the temp gauge. I'd say running that 6' bush hog in some of our thicker growth is a heavier load on both those tractors than the 4X6 round baler.
a) Just like Destroked, my 5000 runs right up next to the red at running temp. When it's in the red, it's getting hot. But my 6600 with pretty much the same cluster stays in the middle when at running temps. The IR thermometer will give you an idea what's going on. When performing other chores or just driving around, where does the needle sit?
b) Is it just a case of it loading down the 5000? Bush hogging is a very variable task. For cutting grass and clipping pasture, my father can zip around with a 5' bush-hog on his 8N just fine. But when we get into proper 'bush' hogging - dealing with heavy growth, small brush, and hawthorns, the 6' bush-hog can bring our 5000 or JD2120 to their knees. We're often having to crawl along in second gear, and on a hot day you really want your eye on the temp gauge. I'd say running that 6' bush hog in some of our thicker growth is a heavier load on both those tractors than the 4X6 round baler.
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