51 case vac carb

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hello i have case vac it has a marvel schebler tsx 114 it will only
run with the power adj jet completly out in my hand out lol .i
have cleaned it to it to a bike shop had them sonic tank it and i
hav e put a rebuild kit in . I have blown air thew the passeges .
When i even get close to puting the jet close it sputters and dies
:( i am about to see how far i can throw it down the hill.
I would assume its plugged still even though air goes
threw it any help would be greatly appriciated thank for your
time
 
Got one just like it. Done everything I can imagine to it and it still runs like crap. Switch carbs and it's purring like a kitten. I think the answer is buying a new Zenith for it. But $$$$$$$!
 
I had that happen on a VA. Used a wire and air to clean it but would not run. Was told to soak it acid. Did that flushed it well and blew it out and it is still running well
Dave
 
Eugene, when you take it apart again, take all the jets out ,get your self a SET OF TORCH TIP CLEANERS. Be careful and run the cleaners throw all the chanels. Then put it back on make sure you do not have a vacum leak, at the trottle shaft and the manifold. Jerry for Ohio
 
(quoted from post at 17:09:58 06/01/13) buy an aftermarket zenith like i did
You couldn't give me one of those pot metal piles of crap. Send it to me or give it to someone who knows carbs, we'll make it work like it's supposed to!
 
I have cleaned about a dozen of these medium-bodied Marvel-Schebler carbs, Some of which came from welding machines, a bull dozer, and an assortment of different brands of tractors (including the one in my VAC-14). One was literally full of rust to the point where I had to chisel it out of the float bowl (in an SA200 welding machine). About 2-4 hours is all it has ever taken to get everything working properly. Sometimes it takes a second disassembly and cleaning shortly after putting the carb into service, in order to get the last little bit of crud out. (I should note that the equivalent Zenith carbs with pot metal parts are far more difficult to work on after they have been neglected or abused than are these Marvel-Schebler carbs.)
Without examining the carb personally, I can't tell you exactly where the problem is, but is sounds like you have missed a passage. I am going out on a limb and guess that it is the economizer vent passage at the top of the float bowl. The passages at the top of the float bowl can sometimes disappear from sight into the cast iron when they are plugged with rust, varnish, and crud. Also, wasps commonly build nests around the outside of the venturi inside the carb body (if the air cleaner is left off) and their nests block the inside end of the economizer passage. A restricted economizer circuit will cause the carb to run very lean all of the time, and a plugged passage will stop flow almost completely. If this is indeed the case, then removing the needle is venting the float bowl and allowing fuel to flow freely to the engine, resulting in an over-rich mixture.
 
I have a 1946 VAC with a similar issue. Mine runs best only when the choke is fully closed. I rebuilt it and the inside is immaculate including all passages, float valve and needles. I"m still at a loss.
 
Hello again i am wondering i still having issues wirh my carb only will run with the power jet out lol but my other ? Is i bought a used working zeinith carb off ebay to try it well it said it was off a 50 mine is a 51 i would think it would be the same but the bolt pattern is smaller and the throut is 1/16 smaller? On the zeinith. Did they have different intakes on the vac. Mine also has a vaccume port for a milking pump or something so i am not sure if i had a odd ball intake thanks for your time
 
Eugene, all the intake bolt patters are the same. Have you tried cleaning your old carb out? For $50 you could have easily repaired what you have.
 

what everybody else has said and If you have gas settin in the tank and carb for a long time the ethanol in the gas will separate and cause you heart ache the stuff called START that you get at parts place will really clean the junk from the system - had a 4-wheeler that acted real lean and then would not start - drained the old stuff from the tank and put in fresh - would not run - gave up and let it sit over the winter - in the spring it started and now runs better than it ever has - ethanol is a nother scam for making the guverment feel like they are earning wut we pay them to SAVE THE WORLD! horse puckey! :evil:
 
Thanks for all the input Christopher mikesell I think it was the economizer passage they were visible and seemed to be clear I focused on them the last time I cleaned it and all the others passage ways but it works now thanks again to everyone that had a comment
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top