'52 8N Electrical Issue

[bernieblue]

I finally got this unit running pretty well and while adjusting the carb, the positive battery cable, which was 18" too long and installed by a previous owner, came in contact with the hot exhaust manifold, melted through and shorted out causing the tractor to come to an immediate stop. This tractor had been converted to 12 volts in the past and there are cut wires everywhere. I've checked as much continuity as I can and replaced the starter solinoid and starter button. Still no response on cranking the engine. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Jim L WA]

I take it you replaced the positive cable. You say you have checked continuity but what about battery (volts)? Does the battery have anywhere near 12 volts at the battery posts? Try cleaning the negative and positive battery posts and the clamps. I had to do that just the other day on my 2N It started and ran one day the next day nothing. I could read volts all over the place, but no lights or crank. Cleaned the battery posts and it started right up.
By the way, welcome to the forum bernieblue.

 

[bernieblue]

The battery was the first thing I tested. With a multimeter the battery tested at about 12.75 volts.

 

[Eman85]

Use multimeter and measure voltage at the starter solenoid. Usually people get the wrong starter solenoid, what starter button are you using is it the factory one next to the shifter?

 

[bernieblue]

The solinoid, 8N11450R, and Starter Push Switch, 8N11500WG, both came from came from Redbelly Tractors.

 

[kensikora1]

On my 8N the engine turns over but I get no spark. The coil is new.

 

[Eman85]

The solinoid, 8N11450R, and Starter Push Switch, 8N11500WG, both came from came from Redbelly Tractors.

OK, by numbers it appears you have the correct replacement parts. Did you measure voltage at the battery cable where it connects to the solenoid?
That solenoid works by grounding the small terminal. If you have good voltage at the solenoid you can use a jumper wire to ground and activate it manually. BE VERY CAREFUL AS YOU WILL BE BYPASSING THE NEUTRAL SAFETY. Be sure the tractor is in neutral!!!!! If not you can run yourself over with your own tractor.
Momentarily grounding the terminal should make the solenoid click, if it's the correct solenoid you either have it connected wrong, don't have voltage at the terminal or it's defective.
You can check the switch with an Ohmmeter, 1 lead to the switch terminal and 1 lead to ground. Should show an open circuit or OL and when you press the button you should see a reading on the meter.

 

[kensikora1]

Does anyone have an answer for Ken Sikora with his 8N no starting?

 

[HarryVanderpool]

Does anyone have an answer for Ken Sikora with his 8N no starting?

Ken needs to start a new thread for his problem.

 

[Jim.ME]

Does anyone have an answer for Ken Sikora with his 8N no starting?

Please start your own thread. Mixing your problem into bernieblue's thread is only going to confuse both.

Give us the background on your issue. An 8N can be a front mount or side mount distributor. Is it original 6 volt, or has it been converted to 12? Was it running and quit, or just didn't start when you went to use it? When was it last tuned up? This type of info will help get you better answers to begin with.

 

[kensikora1]

I’ve tried to find where to enter the forum with my question, but I don’t see a clear way(?). Help!!

Front mount distributer, new 6 volt coil, new points and condenser. Engine operated and after trying to start again — now no spark again.

New carburetor acting now the same as the old carburetor - floats inside the carburetor will not stop the fuel from overfilling the carburetor (?).

Ken Sikora 1

 

[bernieblue]

Ken,

I had a similar problem. Turns out the bushing inthe distributor was so worn that the rubbing block on the points wasn't even touching the cam. This was after the proper point gap had been set. Rotate the flywheel with a screw driver and watck your pionts very carefully. I had to rebuild the distributor.

 

[olddavid]

I’ve tried to find where to enter the forum with my question, but I don’t see a clear way(?). Help!!

I believe you need to get out of this thread and select forums. In the upper right hand corner there will be block that says "Post Threads". Select the correct forum and go on from there.

 

[bernieblue]

Hi Eman85,

I checked the solinoid when I first had the problem by jumping from the negative battery terminal to the solinoid body then jumped from the positive terminal to the electromatic terminal on the solinoid and listened for the click. No click so I bought the new one. Was this a valid test. I just went out and checked the voltage across the solinoid with the wire from the starter buttom disconnected from the solinoid. I get 13 volts across the solinoid. Weird!

I checked the master switch and starter button for continuity with an ohm meter. The starter button seemed odd so I bought the new one.

 

[soaked]

On samsung cell phone its here

 

[used red MN]

I get 13 volts across the solinoid. Weird!

Where are you getting 13 volts “across”? The terminal the starter button connects to is one end of the electromagnetic coil that when energized magnetically pulls the contacts closed. The other end connects internally to the large terminal that the battery cable connects to. Since an electromagnetic coil is a continuous wire wound in the coil it transmits a voltage reading on the terminal. If the starter switch button is grounding the solenoid terminal as it should it seems your results should be a turning starter.

 

[used red MN]

On samsung cell phone its here
View attachment 167046

Ken Sikora, to see the “Post Thread” button you need to scroll to the top of this thread and click the wording “Ford 9N, 2N & 8N” at the left. Then you will be in the Ford N tractor forum main page where the “Post Thread” button is shown.

 

[Eman85]

Hi Eman85,

I checked the solinoid when I first had the problem by jumping from the negative battery terminal to the solinoid body then jumped from the positive terminal to the electromatic terminal on the solinoid and listened for the click. No click so I bought the new one. Was this a valid test. I just went out and checked the voltage across the solinoid with the wire from the starter buttom disconnected from the solinoid. I get 13 volts across the solinoid. Weird!

I checked the master switch and starter button for continuity with an ohm meter. The starter button seemed odd so I bought the new one.

Put the negative (black lead) of your meter on the ground side of the battery. Put the red lead on the solenoid large terminal that the battery cable connects to, what is the voltage? Now take the red lead an touch the other large terminal of the solenoid which should be connected to your starter lug and take a voltage reading. Report back.
A pic of the starter and solenoid would help.

 

[bernieblue]

Following your directions I get 13.29 volts on the first part then 0 volts on the second.

 

[Jim L WA]

Great, now, clip the red lead of your voltmeter to the NON grounded side of the battery and the black lead to the small post of the solenoid and push the start button and look for your battery voltage. If you don't have clips for your meter you may need a helper. Tell us what you get.